Best source for built ZF-5?

MountainMan300

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I have a 1992 F-350 4x4 with the 7.3 IDI, and a ZF-5 transmission.

I believe the synchro for reverse is going out, as I am able to go through 1-5 normally without issue. However, when I try to go in reverse, the transmission usually grinds and wants to pop back out of gear.

I'm a GM guy by trade, but I do want to use this truck as a workhorse for my family's business (which includes a fair amount of towing, hauling, and long distance travel). As such, I really want the most durable transmission possible.

Since I'm still new to Fords, what is the best solution to my transmission issue? Would I be better off having a shop rebuild it, or is there a reputable source for ZF-5's online?
 

Azidiguy

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What part of the world are you from i only know of one in az but hes good and stands by his work
 

Shadetreemechanic

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There is a local shop near me that does a great job on these transmissions, but Tennessee is a big state. Layne's Transmission is in Tracy City, TN
 

Jesus Freak

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I know there's good mechanics out there.......they're probably with bigfoot. But if you do it yourself, you know that you know.

Nothing against the "good" mechanic out there, I've just never had a good experience and have resolved to do it all myself.
 

franklin2

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I have a 1992 F-350 4x4 with the 7.3 IDI, and a ZF-5 transmission.

I believe the synchro for reverse is going out, as I am able to go through 1-5 normally without issue. However, when I try to go in reverse, the transmission usually grinds and wants to pop back out of gear.

I'm a GM guy by trade, but I do want to use this truck as a workhorse for my family's business (which includes a fair amount of towing, hauling, and long distance travel). As such, I really want the most durable transmission possible.

Since I'm still new to Fords, what is the best solution to my transmission issue? Would I be better off having a shop rebuild it, or is there a reputable source for ZF-5's online?
I have driven several different zf's in several different trucks, and they all had a tendency to do this. Get in the habit of putting the lever in reverse, and hang on to it putting pressure on it. While you have pressure on the shifter, slowly let out on the clutch. 90% of the time as you slowly let out on the clutch the lever will go in a little further and you are golden. The other 10% of the time the lever will not move, meaning it already found it's home in reverse.

I have driven mine for years like this. I would not tear it apart and spend a bunch of money if everything else works ok.
 

The_Josh_Bear

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I have driven several different zf's in several different trucks, and they all had a tendency to do this. Get in the habit of putting the lever in reverse, and hang on to it putting pressure on it. While you have pressure on the shifter, slowly let out on the clutch. 90% of the time as you slowly let out on the clutch the lever will go in a little further and you are golden. The other 10% of the time the lever will not move, meaning it already found it's home in reverse.

I have driven mine for years like this. I would not tear it apart and spend a bunch of money if everything else works ok.
Another thought along those lines that might help if OP decided not to rebuild:

20+ years ago I had a woman tell me the secret to keeping the reverse shift nice and smooth was to shift into 3rd gear first, then immediately into reverse. I've always owned a manual since then, and always do this once I got into the habit. Works great! I admit the reverse synchro is a little touchy cold, but this original ZF needs love for some of the forward synchros(that were already beat up when I got the pickup 16+ years ago).

Going 3rd to reverse brings the countershaft up to engine speed, making the shift into reverse pretty well effortless and complete. It is synchro'd for reverse but this trick still helps me.
 

Jesus Freak

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Another thought along those lines that might help if OP decided not to rebuild:

20+ years ago I had a woman tell me the secret to keeping the reverse shift nice and smooth was to shift into 3rd gear first, then immediately into reverse. I've always owned a manual since then, and always do this once I got into the habit. Works great! I admit the reverse synchro is a little touchy cold, but this original ZF needs love for some of the forward synchros(that were already beat up when I got the pickup 16+ years ago).

Going 3rd to reverse brings the countershaft up to engine speed, making the shift into reverse pretty well effortless and complete. It is synchro'd for reverse but this trick still helps me.
That's genius! If I don't forget, I'll do that in the morning. My tendency is to hit the gear above or below reverse, according to what tranny it is. Now track that chick down and ask her how to make a 1974 international 674 tractor transmission to not grind into gear.
 

franklin2

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Another thought along those lines that might help if OP decided not to rebuild:

20+ years ago I had a woman tell me the secret to keeping the reverse shift nice and smooth was to shift into 3rd gear first, then immediately into reverse. I've always owned a manual since then, and always do this once I got into the habit. Works great! I admit the reverse synchro is a little touchy cold, but this original ZF needs love for some of the forward synchros(that were already beat up when I got the pickup 16+ years ago).

Going 3rd to reverse brings the countershaft up to engine speed, making the shift into reverse pretty well effortless and complete. It is synchro'd for reverse but this trick still helps me.
Not sure I fully understand this theory, but whatever works. When I am shifting into reverse I am stopped with the clutch in, and no part of the transmission is turning. If I shift into 3rd, the transmission is still not turning since I still have the clutch depressed. Unless shifting to 3rd lines something up so it goes into reverse?
 

Nero

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Shifting into 3rd aligns the gears with all the shafts so it pops into reverse easier. Is actually a good strategy for more than just the zf, I used to do it on my samurai too before I had it rebuilt.
 

Black dawg

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The reverse grind and pop is pretty common in these transmissions. Caused by damage from clutch not being all the way in (bad hydraulics, pedal bushing, broke firewall, or people being lazy, or seat too far back to get the clutch in). Shifting quickly from neutral with clutch out, to clutch in and shifting into reverse also over time causes this damage. moving the shifter into any gear position after being in neutral (with engine running) before shifting to reverse helps with most all manual transmissions, and is first grade level stuff for driving old manual transmission trucks......
 

The_Josh_Bear

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Not sure I fully understand this theory, but whatever works. When I am shifting into reverse I am stopped with the clutch in, and no part of the transmission is turning. If I shift into 3rd, the transmission is still not turning since I still have the clutch depressed. Unless shifting to 3rd lines something up so it goes into reverse?

With the clutch disengaged no part is under power, but if it was recently engaged the shaft may still be spinning. I have no idea how long it spins after disengagement, I'm guessing not long, a few seconds?

So I agree that if you're just parked and the shafts aren't spinning there *shouldn't* be a difference... but from experience there is. It just smooths things out nearly every time.
 
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