Best oil

ClifFord

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Ok. Oil question. 94, 7.3 IDI with turbo. Went from rotella 15w40 to straight 30w. Well, the truck didn't like that at all. Lots of smoke and oil went super thin. Started working its way out of gaskets and didn't hold compression to start when hot. Wanted to get some opinions. Should I go back to rotella with Lucas, or try 40w or even 50w? Summer in Texas 90°-100° daily.

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Cubey

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Ok. Oil question. 94, 7.3 IDI with turbo. Went from rotella 15w40 to straight 30w. Well, the truck didn't like that at all. Lots of smoke and oil went super thin. Started working its way out of gaskets and didn't hold compression to start when hot. Wanted to get some opinions. Should I go back to rotella with Lucas, or try 40w or even 50w? Summer in Texas 90°-100° daily.

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Pretty much any 15w40 except Rotella, which IDIs usually gulp down. I have Valvoline premium blue conventional in my RV right now. Despite the name, its fairly cheap. I got it for around $10/gallon on sale back around March. Tractor Supply's regular price is $13/gallon. Walmart Supertech worked ok in my F250 too. I'm not picky about oil type as long as it's 15w40 and I keep it filled up. I doubt the engine cares much either, as long as it's kept lubricated and has the oil changed often.
 

Macrobb

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Any 15W40 will work fine, just change it on a regular basis. These are filthy engines in terms of crud going into the oil.
 

Golden Helmet

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Most IDI's love to drink Rotella 15-40, but if your engine is one of the few that doesn't drink it, there's nothing wrong with it. I run Rotella in mine and by 3K miles it's only a quart low, if that.

If you were in a colder climate you'd want to run something like 5-40, but in Texas 15-40 is perfectly fine.

Edit: fixed spelling, damn you autocorrect
 
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Cubey

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Any 15W40 will work fine, just change it on a regular basis. These are filthy engines in terms of crud going into the oil.

I plan to change my RV's oil every 2500-3000 miles, being turbo'd and not having cold air intake. It's impossible to have cold air intae on an ATS 085 in a van chassis without custom filtering and intake piping. Plus it has to move such a big brick. The oil that was in it when I got it looked like crap, even for an IDI. Amazingly it doesn't burn oil as badly as my truck. It has a ton less miles, so that could be why, even though it's 2 years old and has sat a lot more. I typically put whatever is cheapest in a name brand at the time.
 

lsaami

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I run 5w-40 Rotella t6 full synthetic
 

lsaami

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I plan to change my RV's oil every 2500-3000 miles, being turbo'd and not having cold air intake. It's impossible to have cold air intae on an ATS 085 in a van chassis without custom filtering and intake piping. Plus it has to move such a big brick. The oil that was in it when I got it looked like crap, even for an IDI. Amazingly it doesn't burn oil as badly as my truck. It has a ton less miles, so that could be why, even though it's 2 years old and has sat a lot more. I typically put whatever is cheapest in a name brand at the time.
I recently made a custom intake for my Banks turbo on my van chassis. made a crazy difference in throttle response. I have the Hypermax hood intake air box, and then hard 3" PVC coated in foil heat tape back to the turbo.


https://www.instagram.com/p/B0bL_2EpUdM/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link
 

Cubey

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I recently made a custom intake for my Banks turbo on my van chassis. made a crazy difference in throttle response. I have the Hypermax hood intake air box, and then hard 3" PVC coated in foil heat tape back to the turbo.


https://www.instagram.com/p/B0bL_2EpUdM/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link

The problem with the ATS 085 in a van chassis boils down to these problems:

1) The ATS 085 lid has the intake pointing towards the driver's side. On van's, the cold air intake is on the passenger side
2) You can't reverse the lid to point towards the passenger side because of the engine placement vs the engine tunnel
3) Even if you could reverse the lid and had enough room on the passenger side, would there be enough room to get in and out due to the engine tunnel roof area?
4) It has a retaining ring that holds down the air filer instead of the air box lid instead of a lid, pulling in hot air from the engine compartment.

I have thought about trying to run flexible tubing from the intake box at the grill to the top of the filter to give it at least SOME cold air, but it's a low priority over other stuff it needs. (Other users are probably sick of me mentioning this by now... so I guess I should stop)

I would be interested to see the setup you have.
 
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mulot

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I have two 1991 IDI 7.3 F-250 Lariat. I live in Canada in a region with clod winters and hot summers. I have electric fuel pumps on both of my trucks. I make my own mixture of oils that I use year round 50% 15/40 Shell Rotella regular and 50% euro spec Castrol Diesel 0/30 synthetic. They run smooth have good oil pressure are better on fuel and they don't burn oil. I run cheap 50.00$ Walmart Value batteries that will start the trucks in a snap w/o block heater assistance even in the arctic cold mornings.
 
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raydav

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I have run 5w-40 Rotela T6 synthetic in my 7.3 IDI and 7.3 PSD for several years. They like it fine. And after bugging every oil guy I could at SEMA regarding oil for flat lifter cams I now run it in everything. But don't run it with cats.
 

ClifFord

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I wanted to take it back to it's stock oil (sae 30). But that stuff went really thin at OT. Started sleeping out of the water pump gasket and didn't want to start back up when hot. Had to wait till full cool down for it to start up again. I always ran rotella 15w 40 with a qt of Lucas and did great. Another thing is I haven't driven it in a while. I start it on the regular but this was the first time on the road with the 30w. Last time it did this was bad injector seals, but this time it started putting out alot of white smoke when hot so I'm thinking the oil got so thin it was bypassing. Ill change it next payday. 3gal isn't a quick snag on a fixed income. I have heard alot better reviews for the Dello but it does cost more. Thanks for all the comments.
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IDIBRONCO

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But don't run it with cats.
I can't imagine the situation that would make me want to use synthetic or any other type of oil with my cats. Even if I wanted to, I'm not sure where I'd put it in them. Although there is that one spot underneath the tail... Wait. Was I thinking about the wrong kind of cats?:angel:
 

Hydro-idi

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Best oil? Anything that says oil on the bottle will work fine for an idi. These engines don’t care what you dump in them as long as it looks, smells, & tastes like oil lol.
Run chevron delo 15w-40 in my 6.7psd, and also run the same oil in my klr650. It doesn’t burn off like Rotella,and all the farmers I know run delo in just about everything they own.
 

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