Best clutch hydraulics

[Daniel McCurdy]

So my slave cylinder decided to form a pinhole leak and I had no clutch for 20 miles so now I need a new one. I just need the slave but if heard there impossible to bleed so should I get the prebled kit. What brand should I go with are they any that are better than the others.

 

[Kizer]

I've been using the pre-bled kit from luk ... it looks (extraordinarily) similar to the other units available @ PartsGeek.com.
Both have served me well ... so far.

 

[Big Bart]

Others have said bench bleeding worked well for them.

Harbor Frieght has a Pneumatic bleeder that might help. Sucks the fluid out of the system. (VS you pumping the clutch.)

The challenge is air finds the high spots, if you do not create much flow when bleeding it can just stay there and let fluid pass it.

 

[TNBrett]

One of the vendors that’s frequently here has a replacement hose for the clutch that supposedly makes them effortless to bleed. I can’t remember who right now though.

 

[chillman88]

One of the vendors that’s frequently here has a replacement hose for the clutch that supposedly makes them effortless to bleed. I can’t remember who right now though.

@typ4
Russrepair.com

 

[Daniel McCurdy]

What about one of those bleeders that pull a vacuum on the system do those work well for this

 

[Daniel McCurdy]

What brand should I use. Is the luk a quality one to use.

 

[subway]

one of the keys I have found for bleeding a clutch line is to pull the clutch pedal back. I was going nuts trying to bleed my clutch when I realized that the clutch pedal was not coming back far enough to expose the port inside the master to pull new fluid in. Once I did that the bleeding was easy.

As far as brand, I have had no problem with a regular unbled set from Autozone. I do prefer the metal parts over the plastic ones. I have heard of some of the plastic parts cracking out over time.

 

[IDIBRONCO]

if heard there impossible to bleed so should I get the prebled kit.

I won't say that they're impossible. I've managed to get every one that I've installed bled, eventually. I will say that no matter what method I've used in the past, it's been difficult enough that I'll buy the pre bled set when I have to do it to one of my trucks. In your case, another reason that I would lean toward the set is the fact that both the slave and master are probably the same age. If one goes bad, I'd be afraid that the other one won't be far behind.

 

[Daniel McCurdy]

Well I ended up getting the slave and master from advanced. They were aluminum body so they should be better than the original. I found a method of bleeding them that seems to work well. Have the master up high and the slave down low, loosen the bleeder and let it gravity feed, once there's a steady stream close the bleeder and push the rod all the way in. This method seems to be real simple quick and easy from what I've been able to find

 

[Daniel McCurdy]

That was easier than expected it only took a few minutes to bleed and worked perfect the first try. The clutch actually seems easier to push in and it goes into gear a little better. Interestingly I was looking at the slave while the clutch was being pressed and there is a lot of flex in the system.

 

[Big Bart]

Glad you got it in without much hassle!

 

[engineertppllc]

Good point Subway. The piston must return to expose that fill port. I added a small spring under the dash to help with that. The large compression spring installed at manufacture just wasn't doing the job. I think it had plastic ends at one time, connecting it to the pivots. Must have broken and fallen away before I got the truck. The spring is still there; but it's not as effective. Sure is crowded under that dash, isn't it?