BEEN TOO LONG! ISSUES: Facet and water pump

CaptTom

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Hey Burners! How have you been? A long time since I've been aboard.

Two issues have come up which are annoying the heck out of me.

First is: I've gone through my 2nd filtered Facet electric pump #42705, which is a 4-5.5PSI pump. Well, Facet has gotten out of the DURALIFT market, and all I can find that are close to that PSI rating is 9-11PSI in the DURALIFT model.

The question is: Will this over-drive the IP, or do you think it can be used on a 1990 7.3l without issues?


I'm currently using a very small Edelbrock pump I found at a local chain parts store as an interim pump with a small glass filter installed ahead of it. Very small in comparison to the Duralift filter- which is less than ideal for my wants. The Edelbrock pump is about the size of a 50 cent piece around, it has all the correct stats, but, I'd rather have a Duralift.

Second is: Water pumps aka circulating pumps. I've also gone through 2 water pumps, both NAPA brands, Chinese of course. In spite of the lifetime warranty, the 2-3 hours to r/r that thing is just a PITA! My last 2 pumps both gave up the weeper hole. Yes, I'm running the DFA properly dosed, and no, I do not have a coolant filter. One thing which I have that most do not is, the heavy duty fan clutch. Because I live in SoCal, summers can be a bear with heat, and I have a couple of 10 mile steep hills I must traverse daily that is a challenge for heat, and why I use the heavy duty clutch, it's always on.

Before responding with the electric fan option, I have had a dual fan kit in my garage for over 3 years, which is partially trimmed to fit in place of the fan shroud, but, being lazy like I am, it's still in the garage.

The question is: What is the best circulating pump on the market?



Hey! Thanks ahead of time for your responses! I've owned this truck now going on 8 years, and it has been a daily driver. Bought it with 76k original miles on it, and now up to 230k!! All kinds of waste diesel and oil have run through this beast and she keeps on keeping on! Once I hit 300k, I'm going to sell her, but not because of anything other than getting something newer....although it may hurt too much to give up faithful, still undecided.
 

CaptTom

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CaptTom

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Hey Fixall!

How have you been? You along with Agnem, Oldtimer, and several others helped me a lot when I first came to this site. You've kept my truck running for 8 years with your suggestions and tricks!

Wanted to say thank you for that!
 

SirRea63l

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My flowkooler was just delivered, it will go in next week or two. Not cheap but also not Chinese throw away stuff.
 

sjwelds

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On your facet topic, I have been running the 9-11.5 psi rated pump for several years now, with no problem. By the time the fuel makes it through the filter head, I have 7 psi at the Schrader valve. I'd say go for it.
 

IDIBRONCO

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Instead of over pressurizing the injector pump, wouldn't any excess pressure go out through the return lines?
 

Thewespaul

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It won't hurt anything but with the pressure increase inside the pump, the effective advance will increase with your injection timing
 

Macrobb

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It won't hurt anything but with the pressure increase inside the pump, the effective advance will increase with your injection timing
It's fine running a higher pressure pump, but you might need to retard your IP slightly to compensate... If you've recently timed it.
If not, it's probably already retarded, so the added advance will /help/ it.

What matters most is consistancy of pressure - you don't want 10 psi at idle and 0 at wot. That'll give you a clattery idle and quiet, smokey and lower-power high end, due to the lack of advance near WOT.
 

crash-harris

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That's the only complaint I have with the increased pressure Duralift. 7-8 psi at idle and down to 2-3 psi at WOT. I've seen some people running 2 inline, but IIRC, the Duralift is a draw through design.

And I to am interested in these water pumps.
 

riotwarrior

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Thanks for waterpump link..someone should contact them about a group buy:Thumbs Up I mnow I will be getting one for sure

I would say go ahead and utilize the duralift.

Good see ya back too btw
 

Macrobb

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That's the only complaint I have with the increased pressure Duralift. 7-8 psi at idle and down to 2-3 psi at WOT.
I'd be tempted to get a spring-check-valve* and put it between the pump supply and back-to-tank return, adjust it for an opening pressure of like 3 psi.
Now, it should stay around 3 PSI at all times; at idle, the check valve will just return the extra fuel back to the tank, at WOT, the pressure will drop and the check valve will close. Also, if your pressure drops to a negative, the check valve will be closed and you'll just pull fuel.

(*Effectively using a spring check valve as a fuel pressure regulator, because the pressures are so low and much cheaper).
 
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