battery cable question

G. Mann

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I've found my local welding supply is a better source for heavy gage fine wire cable with a good heavy insulation that is made to take heat and abuse.

The fine wire copper is better at transmitting 12 volt DC current. If you use the right tool to stake crimp the lugs on, coat the connection with DC4, [like in my previous posting here], then shrink tube the connection, you should have many years of trouble free service.

I like making my own rather than buying off the shelf, because it lets me add some extra to give better routing of the cable than off the shelf. Plus, I know what I have for wire inside the cable.
 

madpogue

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I've never seen jumper cables larger than 4 gauge. You need something more like 1/0 to the starter and between the positives.
 

ericwade381

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Here's the pics guys wanted to see if it's ok to cut the wire that goes to my negative cable and grounds on the block bolt It runs to the starter. And the small box plug above the voltage reg that grounds on my neg terminal is it OK to cut them and put a ring conection on each one and put them back when I put my new cable on. Hope I made sense
 

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IDIoit

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grounds can be re-done
mine has a cable from the batteries to the engine on both sides.
pass side has a ground to the chassis as well
chassis to engine
engine to firewall
firewall to frame
engine to hood.
i added a few to ensure a complete ground loop.
 

BDCarrillo

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grounds can be re-done
mine has a cable from the batteries to the engine on both sides.
pass side has a ground to the chassis as well
chassis to engine
engine to firewall
firewall to frame
engine to hood.
i added a few to ensure a complete ground loop.

Did all that in my Fox with jumper cable. I agree that I would want the heavy duty stuff to the starter, but the alternator feed, grounds, etc can be jumper, IF you don't have a welding supply shop nearby.

If you want fancy audio amp grade cable, amp install kits aren't too expensive. The included fuse would be good with a 3g alt upgrade.
 

IDIoit

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ive done this with 1/2 gauge amp wire, i dont know what happened, but it corroded pretty damn quick....
all soldered and heat shrinked.
maybe i had another issue going on, this was in one of my little hotrods.
i found a roll of 1/2" wide grounding strap at a swap meet one day, and thats all ive been using now.
 

ironworker40

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Here is a pic from napa. This should be drivers side negative cable. small wire goes to radiator support. Large wire goes to engine block opposite side of the pic you showed for passenger side.
 

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ironworker40

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This is right side ground http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/C...ttery-Cable-Negative/_/R-CBL717905_0147129137
I cant get picture to post. The large wire goes to the bolt in the picture you posted. The small wire goes to frame. That will complete negative battery cables as far as I know. This is the way it is on my 1993. There is no negative cable going to starter. Make sure you have a firewall to engine ground, usually on passenger side, rear of head. Also you need body to frame grounds. These are usually under truck, braded flat cable that go from frame to body. You can add as many as you want, make sure all connections are clean.
 

ironworker40

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allow me to add something....

not only clean.
BUT PAINT FREE
60-120 grit sand paper works great.
A 4 in grinder with a wire wheel works wonderful, just do not use it on lead battery posts
 

IDIoit

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Kinda hard to get a grinder into some of those spots. But if it works.
DO IT TO IT!
 
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