How I fixed the Ford battery cable problem
After pricing the replacement cable and fighting with old, tired, and damaged connections, I did this.
Hope the pictures are self explanatory:
Marine terminals from Walmart with 3/8th bolts used on all 4 posts. Cost less than $4 each. There are two sizes common, 3/8th is the bigger one. WalMart sells them as individuals rather than a set of one big, one little, like most auto parts stores package them.
One pair of lead post liners that let you run a positive post clamp on the smaller negative terminal battery post. I trim a slot up one side of the post liner to get it to clamp down tight on the smaller post. ***** will clip out what you need.
Welding cable ends and a welding cable crimp-er ... hammer type. Heat shrink tubing and a tube of DC4 electrical connection lube to coat the ends of the cable and lug end before you crimp them on.
Cut the old damaged clamps off with a hack saw..fine tooth blade works best, if the cable isn't corroded inside the insulation, cut as close to the old clamp as possible, trim back the insulation, coat it with DC4 which locks out water and stops corrosion, use DC4 inside the cable end, mate the two firmly together, and crimp them.. Slide the big shrink tubing over the new joint and shrink it down to protect the new connection.
Cost for the cable lug crimp tool was about $36, 4 marine battery connections = $12, welding lugs, about $3 each, shrink tubing another $8 with some left over [get the extra thick stuff, it works best. If you can't find that, do two layers of the thinner shrink tubing].
I've done this now on 3 of my trucks and 2 friends trucks [one dodge owner who saw mine and begged me to do it.. so a total of 6 trucks] All with the same crimp tool, which still works just fine. So, it's been a good investment.
I've been running this setup now for 7 years on the oldest truck. NO issues.
Note: Use a wave washer under the wing nuts, it will increase the clamp pressure, and tighten the wing nuts with a little pliers pressure, not just finger tight, to ensure a good connection..
Clean, Bright, Tight, is the rule with battery connections.
It's VERY handy when I'm working on the truck and need to disconnect the batteries.. or if I park the truck and don't want to have a drain down... also handy to add a lug under the hot post for running lights or anything else..
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Drivers side hot post
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Drivers side ground post with body ground lug
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Passenger side ground post
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Passenger side hot post, with starter lead and solenoid lead laying disconnected. As you can see, I've made them individual leads when cut out of
the stock Ford flag post arrangement.
Hope this helps.. it's saved me a lot of grief with battery cables and cost.
So far, I've been able to use the original cables and just trim the ends back to accept the welding cable lugs [about 1/2inch of insulation stripped back]
