Banks egt gauge

[graver555]

Hey everyone, first post here. I have an 89 f250 with a banks power pack on it I bought last year and got it running this month.
It has the egt gauge that from my understanding came with the kit. Unfortunately it isn't working.

So I started looking and there was a broken off wire. I crimped a new end on it and hooked it back up to the gauge. Still nothing. Took the leads off the gauge and no continuity between the yellow and red wires. There's a third bare wire that was connected to the red wire electrically and when I followed it all under the truck the bare and red are crimped together to a lug. The yellow didn't go to anything.
The red and bare were connected to a wire that was but connected to the metal braided wire coming from the sensor. I cut it off to see mayby is there a second wire encased inside the braid. Nope just a single wire. It was connected to the outer sheath, with about 5 ohms according to my meter, but I couldn't get a solid reading. I was expecting 2 wires in the sheath.

From what I read, this sensor should put out milivolts when hot, so I turned the truck on and went from the sheath to the conductor, thinking mayby it used the metal sheath as a ground but didn't get any voltage at all.

Am I missing something? Should I abandon this gauge and get a new one? I kinda like that it's old banks performance gear so I'd rather keep it if possible.

Sorry for long winded first post and thanks for the help.

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[F350camper]

Looks like you are in the market for a new probe, and wire set at a minimum.
Those two things are engineered to work together to get accurate readings. Splices and extensions will allow the gauge to read, but they most likely wont be accurate. And there definitely should be two wires coming out of the probe.

The gauge itself is probably fine, but ironically, that is usually the cheapest part of the set believe it or not.
If it were me, I'd find a used unmolested setup on ebay.

 

[Clb]

Look up thermocouple.
Call banks and ask about testing the gauge before you buy just a thermocouple, if the gauge is toast you won't waste $$

 

[graver555]

I'll call tommorow but I don't have any source of milivolt power so I'm not sure how to test.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/EGT-Pyrome...741289?hash=item25e3dd9ba9:g:ZbIAAOSwpLdcIs7G

Would something like this work if the gauge is good? I'm not sure if 6.5' is enough. The probe is on the passanger side by the tail housing of the trans and the wire is ran though a factory hole left of the clutch pedal.

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[Clb]

Read up, the probe is nearly useless down there.
Brb

 

[graver555]

Read up, the probe is nearly useless down there.
Brb

Yea I was thinking it was odd that far downstream. I wasn't sure if the power pack had the bung already there or not. Didn't really look like a factory weld but wasn't certain.


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[IDIBRONCO]

Yea I was thinking it was odd that far downstream. I wasn't sure if the power pack had the bung already there or not. Didn't really look like a factory weld but wasn't certain.


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I was wondering why the wires were underneath the truck. I now understand why. The "ideal" location for the probe is within 8 inches from the head. Most people put the in the driver's side exhaust manifold. The farther from the head the probe is located, the cooler the exhaust temps will be. You're wanting to read the hottest temps that you can since those are the temps that are inside your cylinders where the damage from too high of EGT's occur.

 

[Clb]

The tech guy's at banks were good at explaining the set-up and operating criteria...
They like to change system components often.
A decent pyro setup is important, as is placement...

 

[IDIBRONCO]

The

I think you forgot a few words here.

 

[Clb]

Tech

 

[Clb]

Ok back to your regular programming

 

[graver555]

Lol thanks guys. Yea I'll call them. Ive been trying to find manuals or schematics online but only finding newer stuff. Guess I'll have to drag it to the welding shop or break out my little fluxcore and put a new bung in in a better position.

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[Clb]

Drill and tap #8 exhaust port...

 

[graver555]

Drill and tap #8 exhaust port...

To clarify you mean straight into the cast manifold?

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[Clb]

Yes, look up lubricant for cast iron first, drill\cut slow, grease tap to catch shavings, some folks pull the manifold to keep the turbo safe.
I have used a leaf blower on the tailpipe to push the swarf out the manifold...