Anyone have a guide to pull a 7.3 idi?

steelholder

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I'm almost positive I have a HG leak and will need to pull the engine. I have found guides for the powerstroke and for the 7.3 idi with turbo but would like to find a 7.3 idi specific guide. I dont want to do any extra steps or miss anything if possible, thanks all.
 

Nero

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Use the idi turbo guide, just ignore the turbo parts, engine is same same.
 

steelholder

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Use the idi turbo guide, just ignore the turbo parts, engine is same same.
This is the one I have - do you know if there's anything I can skip or add to make the job easier? Thanks.
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Nero

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Nah that looks pretty straightforward for taking the engine out the top.
 

Jesus Freak

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#1- catch mess of mullet
#2- coax good friend over to pull engine for you
#3- clean and fry mullet
#4- have good friend wash up
#5- eat fresh fried mullet
#6- tell friend you're going fishing next weekend if he wants to come back and put engine back in for you.....

See, simple as 1,2,3......
 

IDIBRONCO

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Here's a few places where I differ from these instructions.
Start draining the coolant first. That way, you'll be closer to being done by the time that it's done draining. Also remember that there will be one last rush of coolant when you disconnect the lower radiator hose so be ready for it.
I'm not sure that you can remove the fan shroud with the fan still on the water pump. I loosen the fan, remove the shroud bolts and then hold the shroud out of the way while I finish removing the fan. Pull them both out together.
It helps the disconnect the upper hose before you remove the fan or any shroud bolts. It gets in the way, but don't remove it too soon or else you'll loose coolant out of it.
I don't think that the A/C compressor will sit on the radiator support. I always set it on the driver's side inner fender.
The power steering pump likes to slide down and get in the way so I hold it up, out of the way with some wire, bungee cords, etc.
I leave the wires attached to the alternator and set it on the passenger's side inner fender.
I also do the same with the vacuum pump. Leave the hose attached.
The cruise control cable attaches to the throttle cable so you can remove those from the injector pump at the same time.
There's no need to remove the bracket that holds the two cables to the front of the intake manifold at this time.
If you unplug the main engine harness at the big plug, there's no need to disconnect all of the senders individually, at this time.
Some trucks had one ground strap at the back of the engine, some had two. Some have it on the driver's side, some have it on the passenger's side. I don't remember enough to have a guess at year ranges. Just check both side of your engine carefully.
I always take all 6 of the bellhousing bolts out from underneath.
You probably don't need to lift the truck up in order to get underneath it. That's your call.
It is right on the part about capping/plugging the rubber fuel line at the lift pump. I've had that siphon fuel out without noticing it for a while. I'll put a 3/8" bolt inside that line to plug it off.
I don't remove the wires/cables from the starter. I unbolt it and let it hang from the positive cable that's still attached to the passenger's side battery. Some will say that it's not good on something or other, but I've done that MANY times, including to my own trucks, with no ill effects.
The proper way to remove the engine is NOT lift straight up. You have to lift, move forward, lift move, forward until the engine can come out. You can do the rotate 45*, but if you lifting set up isn't capable of that, just remove the pulley from the harmonic balancer and the engine will slide out that way. Just be careful that you don't damage the A/C condensor.
No matter how you pull the engine, just go slowly. ALWAYS keep looking at both sides and the back of the engine while you're removing and installing the engine. Wires, hoses, and accessories can be hooked by something on the engine and they may be damaged if you don't notice and keep going. These engines aren't difficult to pull out, especially if you've ever pulled out an engine before.
 

steelholder

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Here's a few places where I differ from these instructions.
Start draining the coolant first. That way, you'll be closer to being done by the time that it's done draining. Also remember that there will be one last rush of coolant when you disconnect the lower radiator hose so be ready for it.
I'm not sure that you can remove the fan shroud with the fan still on the water pump. I loosen the fan, remove the shroud bolts and then hold the shroud out of the way while I finish removing the fan. Pull them both out together.
It helps the disconnect the upper hose before you remove the fan or any shroud bolts. It gets in the way, but don't remove it too soon or else you'll loose coolant out of it.
I don't think that the A/C compressor will sit on the radiator support. I always set it on the driver's side inner fender.
The power steering pump likes to slide down and get in the way so I hold it up, out of the way with some wire, bungee cords, etc.
I leave the wires attached to the alternator and set it on the passenger's side inner fender.
I also do the same with the vacuum pump. Leave the hose attached.
The cruise control cable attaches to the throttle cable so you can remove those from the injector pump at the same time.
There's no need to remove the bracket that holds the two cables to the front of the intake manifold at this time.
If you unplug the main engine harness at the big plug, there's no need to disconnect all of the senders individually, at this time.
Some trucks had one ground strap at the back of the engine, some had two. Some have it on the driver's side, some have it on the passenger's side. I don't remember enough to have a guess at year ranges. Just check both side of your engine carefully.
I always take all 6 of the bellhousing bolts out from underneath.
You probably don't need to lift the truck up in order to get underneath it. That's your call.
It is right on the part about capping/plugging the rubber fuel line at the lift pump. I've had that siphon fuel out without noticing it for a while. I'll put a 3/8" bolt inside that line to plug it off.
I don't remove the wires/cables from the starter. I unbolt it and let it hang from the positive cable that's still attached to the passenger's side battery. Some will say that it's not good on something or other, but I've done that MANY times, including to my own trucks, with no ill effects.
The proper way to remove the engine is NOT lift straight up. You have to lift, move forward, lift move, forward until the engine can come out. You can do the rotate 45*, but if you lifting set up isn't capable of that, just remove the pulley from the harmonic balancer and the engine will slide out that way. Just be careful that you don't damage the A/C condensor.
No matter how you pull the engine, just go slowly. ALWAYS keep looking at both sides and the back of the engine while you're removing and installing the engine. Wires, hoses, and accessories can be hooked by something on the engine and they may be damaged if you don't notice and keep going. These engines aren't difficult to pull out, especially if you've ever pulled out an engine before.
Appreciate the detailed response.
 

Black dawg

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Crazy to think, all these years of working on these I have only had a couple engines out. Done quite a few 6.9 headgaskets in the truck, lots of oil coolers on both 6.9 7.3. Have not had the heads of of a 7.3 other than aquired parts engines. These really are dependable engines.
 

steelholder

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Crazy to think, all these years of working on these I have only had a couple engines out. Done quite a few 6.9 headgaskets in the truck, lots of oil coolers on both 6.9 7.3. Have not had the heads of of a 7.3 other than aquired parts engines. These really are dependable engines.
I've only heard good things as well as far as reliability. This is a recently bought truck that belonged to a municipality so I assumed all maintenance would be tip top. When I found the HG leak it was like a punch in the gut. Here's a clip of it.

 
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