ANTI SEIZE on INJECTOR LINES?

Poorman

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When removing my lines to get at the injectors one of the nuts on the pump hung up on the line, just would not turn without taking the line with it. Eventually I just kept turning until it broke loose which twisted the line about 180 degrees. So I need a new line. I was thinking of putting some anti seize on the back of the flare where it contacts the nut to prevent this next time. Is this a good idea or am I missing something. Also, should these lines be replaced periodically? The ball ends seam a little rough. It's a 1986, 6.9. And why does the price on these things vary so much? I can get a whole set on amazon for the price of one from my local diesel supplier. Is it a case of "you get what you pay for"
 

KansasIDI

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When removing my lines to get at the injectors one of the nuts on the pump hung up on the line, just would not turn without taking the line with it. Eventually I just kept turning until it broke loose which twisted the line about 180 degrees. So I need a new line. I was thinking of putting some anti seize on the back of the flare where it contacts the nut to prevent this next time. Is this a good idea or am I missing something. Also, should these lines be replaced periodically? The ball ends seam a little rough. It's a 1986, 6.9. And why does the price on these things vary so much? I can get a whole set on amazon for the price of one from my local diesel supplier. Is it a case of "you get what you pay for"
Yes, you get what you pay for in that department.
 

Brian VT

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Plan on doing some bending to get the new lines to fit. Mine were way off. Very frustrating job.
Be sure to put the rubber dampers back on. Or find another way to dampen the vibration (scrap rubber hose, etc.). Very important.
In hindsight, I would have only replaced the twisted one and not the others.
Keep the old ones if you decided to replace them all.
 

chillman88

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I've started putting never seize on brake lines under the nut too. Up here in the rust belt they need all the help they can get.
 

Old Goat

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The hard lines do not need to replaced periodically, but if damaged they do.
Taken care of will last the life of the engine.
One thing that will mess them up is, when replacing the plastic caps or injectors.
The lines need to be bent away so the part can clear them.
Best thing is to remove the vibration Clamps first, this will keep then from being bent.
They will be a little springy and easy to move aside.
Be sure to replace the vibration Clamps, or the Hard Line can and will crack.

Never seze is ok to use on the threads, and on the Injector and GP threads also.

As mentioned using it on brake line threads. I put some of the Bleeder Screw
threads also.
BUT...DO NOT use it on the Brake Caliper Bolts. Lock Tite on those.

Medford as I remember is a ways from Portland, but there is 4 PNP yards in the area.
Sherwood, Foster, Commercial and Vancouver, Wa. when you see a IDI hit the yards,
get up there and r-a-p-e her of her parts.
Easiest way in the junk yard to get the hard lines, is to remove them from the Injectors.
Then remove the Pump and gear housing off the engine, easier access to the line`s on the pump.
DO NOT remove it off your DD Engine this way, you will mess up the timing.

I have not bought any of the after market Hard Lines, so no feed back there, just what I have read about not a direct fit, some massaging is required.


Goat
 

XOLATEM

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@Old Goat...sage advice if I ever heard it...from a guy that sounds like he has been there, and done more than that...

I wonder...does anyone offer a T-shirt that commemorates all of the stuff we go through to be successful in this endeavor...??

Just thinking out loud...
 

MIDNIGHT RIDER

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I was thinking of putting some anti seize on the back of the flare where it contacts the nut to prevent this next time. Is this a good idea or am I missing something.

Plenty of anti-seize on anything is always a good thing.

Is it a case of "you get what you pay for"

Quite often anymore (and in the past as well), judging the quality of a product by the price you pay is not good business.

Many times, the only difference is the higher-priced vendor is getting more of your money and taking advantage of people's ingrained misconception of "you get what you pay for"

On tractors and such, we used to buy injector line like buying brake lines and make/bend them to suit; a lot of engines out there, making them yourself is the only way you are going to get them.

We have bought them both ways, make the flares and such ourselves and with the ends there but no bends.
 

tbowker

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On tractors and such, we used to buy injector line like buying brake lines and make/bend them to suit; a lot of engines out there, making them yourself is the only way you are going to get them.
I'm glad you said that, because I was wondering why you couldn't just make your own.
 

Poorman

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Never seze is ok to use on the threads, and on the Injector and GP threads also.
Thanks, I'm comfortable using anti seize on all the threads but more specifically I was asking about using it on the back side of the flare on the line, right where the nut compresses down on the line. This is where it hung up when removing my line, and is costing 60.00 for a new line.
Also I'm thinking about buying one of those cheap sets off amazon just to carry around for a spare as most of my travels are in remote areas x10. Maybe a starter too. (this subject could be a whole new thread) Thanks all,, O, I'm 275 miles from Portland (not far enough)
 

Old Goat

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Maybe an old Farmall was different,
But all the injector lines I have seen are for high pressure.
Thick walled, tinny little hole through the center and with
that Ball end to fit into the cup of the Injector.
And the Ball has to sit in the center of the cup.

I have a 6.9 I picked up from a forum member over on FTE
probably 6 years ago. Said he blew a head gasket, pulled the
engine to fix it, then came across a 7.3.
Suppose to have 149K miles, came with the Turbo and all it`s
accessories, and the 5 spd FW for $250.
Last Tues. dug it out where it has lived in the corner of the shop,
and decided to use the Hotsy pressure washer on it. First had to
plug up all the holes to keep water out.
4 Inj. caps were missing off one side, picked up a plate for the
Fuel Pump hole, cap off the Manifold air intake hole. Now working
on the CDR hole in the Valley Pan. What to put in there?
Thinking one of those rubber Freeze Plugs might work.

One Inj. line on the other side has been bent and twisted, where
no matter how I try to tweek it back in shape will fit square into
the INJ. cup....and has been cross threaded to where it won`t
screw on anyway.
There are no INJ. Line Clamps, so every line wouldn`t line up
anyway to get them on if I want to. They all need to be replaced.
So take are of "your" lines.

This being a 6.9 and turboed, most likely has no studs and too
much pressure blew the HG.
Can`t believe how much grease/oil and crud in on this engine for
only 149K? miles.

Last week the 12th I pressure washed the 7.3 I pulled out of the
89 at PNP about 3 yrs back. Even with the high pressure water
and the heat up to 200+ degrees, a lot of crud wouldn`t blast off.
I sprayed the engine down with the dollar store product called LA
Awesome.
You could see the oils start to emulsify and start running
off. Kept spraying to keep it wet for about 20 min in the hot sun.
Hit it again with the Hotsy and it looks like a new engine and is
actually a grey engine.
Still has the grey Injectors, but a remanufactured IP. with 195K


Goat
 

Old Goat

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Poorman, yeah on the Ball end of the inj. line shouldn`t hurt any thing.
I have seen the Caps a "B" to remove sometimes.
Agree, you are too close to Portland.
Too bad, Portland was once a nice town.
My Daughter is in Tigard, wants to move but Hubby is tied to, devoted to
Mommy.

I understand why eastern Oregon wants to pick up and move to Idaho.
I have a friend in Baker. Way different on that side of the State.


Goat
 

ROCK HARVEY

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Definitely read the reviews on those $40 Amazon injector line sets before you order one. Seemed like everyone had cracked lines within a week or two. Makes me wonder if those are just steel brake line material rather than the thicker stuff our injector lines are supposed to be made of.
 

typ4

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Definitely read the reviews on those $40 Amazon injector line sets before you order one. Seemed like everyone had cracked lines within a week or two. Makes me wonder if those are just steel brake line material rather than the thicker stuff our injector lines are supposed to be made of.
Its not brake line, its just **** tubing.
 

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