Air, White Smoke, Aggravated!

[riotwarrior]

Why are you choosing to use the short fat timing tube at the damper tab. That location will not fit any mag probes I know of.I realize that is the tdc mark but for all the years and all the trucks I have timed we always use the tall skinny probe location. Maybe someone with more timing experience than I will chime in with help. Al.. What are you thoughts on this.

Well my thoughts are hardly more experienced than yours but will give it a shot..

Mag probe hole is 20 deg off from 0 AKA TDC hence need to set J33300 offset to 20.

The small short hole is TDC and with timing light dialed to 8.?? Or ??×× once the slot in harmonic is lined up with centre of short tube then you are timed...pretty much as good as the J33300.

I myself have done extensive comparisons with 3 timing meters 2 x J33300 1 x J33300A a non adjustable timing light and timing tape and an adjustable timing light ...

Albeit timing lights utilized pulse adapter from the timing meters but thos read fuel pulse not a mag slot in damper.

Only things I have not tested is ferret timing adapter and a lumi probe for J33300 meter....will do these when they cross me paths...untill then...take what I offer as quantifieable results....or not...

Thus how he is timing should be accurate and true. A 5 buck timing tape will clarify this as well 7" dia balancer btw...for tape they dont make a 7 1/8" tape...and math shows it is insignificant in difference.

I reviewed the thread and see now Oregon fuel injection.

Ok so new Gcode...should pull n pop test em IMHO and respectively have them balanced.

Really if engine is in good condition and IP gear is INDEED correctly located then no reason other than something IP or injector related.

Maybe see if you can hook up with @typ4 and narrow it down some.

JM7.3CW

 

[Sms888]

Ah, now you see my aggravation… When I timed the pump gear, I used the ford supplemental manual for reference, Y to Y marks, dead on. I also checked for TDC on cylinder 1 by balancer and gp hole. Oregon Fuel Inj. supplied the rebuilt pump and new g codes. I guess I should pull the injectors and get them tested, anybody good near me? New Haven area, CT? Are we sure this has nothing to do with my bleed off issue?? That needs to get fixed also, not sure where to begin, new caps? Restricted return to tank? Thank you guys for all the help, I wouldn't be on here if I didn't value your time and info!

 

[Shawn MacAnanny]

Have you run your engine from a separate fuel can with your electric pump, directly to the fuel filter? Or just buy a cheap electric pump and do that? That will help locating your air intrusion issue. Leaking injector caps will drain lines but not cause smoking/stumbling, air coming in WILL make your engine smoke when it's running rough, it was horrible on my parts truck when i got air in from the rusted sending line elbow. My theory is that its a small amount of air that passed though the injector small enough to impeed the combustion process, so it doesnt burn fully maybe because it goes too lean on that cylinder for the air volume coming in, or because it doesnt spray well because there is air passing through. I swore up and down the injection pump and injectors for bad until i found the air leak at the 90. The truck would run and suck air and smoke like crazy and never clear up, then it just stopped staying running. I could only hear the leak once every 30 seconds with a fuel pump constantly runnning. I could hear air bubbles returning through the return line (from the filter) below the fuel level in the tank. Air squirting in.

I'd really get a can and fuel pump and just try that first. It's way easier than anything else to KNOW the issue lies down stream of the fuel filter.

Did you repalce the fuel olive on the hardline from the filter when you replaced the injection pump or did you reuse the fue olives?

 

[icanfixall]

No lean burning diesels. They are not like a gas engine that really can burn lean. The problem with air getting into the injection pump is it will change the advance and I believe the fuel curve. Maybe not fuel curve but for sure it changes the advance. The injection pump MUST see air free fuel. Now this does not mean we need that expensive fuel pump the psd guys use to get the invisible trapped air out of the fuel.
Try running off the electric lift pump directly from a can of fuel. I bet you wont see air in the return lines.

 

[Sms888]

Sorry, got caught up fixing an oil pan leak in another truck… I replaced the olives when I installed the pump, they leaked, replaced again and it turned out the tube flare was bent. I said screw it an upgraded to a hydraulic style hose with jc5 fittings, all good there now. I'll try the diesel can idea soon, hopefully tomorrow and I'll keep you posted. Thanks all!

 

[Sms888]

Update:
After a crazy busy few weeks… Turned out my bleed valve had some gunk in it and the seal was on its way out. Replaced that, no more air or bleed down. Smokes less, runs better, next we do glow plugs.

One more issue though, she won't start when she's warm/hot. I tried the water on the IP head, no luck. No air it the system that I can see. It cranks like it wants to fire, but no such luck. Newer nippondenso starter with strong batteries, good crank speed but slower when hot, still good though, enough to start any idi. Thoughts? Oregon FI says gunk in the IP, I haven't taken the head cover off yet. Thoughts before I start to tear into the fuel system again?

Thanks all!!

 

[riotwarrior]

Update:
After a crazy busy few weeks… Turned out my bleed valve had some gunk in it and the seal was on its way out. Replaced that, no more air or bleed down. Smokes less, runs better, next we do glow plugs.

One more issue though, she won't start when she's warm/hot. I tried the water on the IP head, no luck. No air it the system that I can see. It cranks like it wants to fire, but no such luck. Newer nippondenso starter with strong batteries, good crank speed but slower when hot, still good though, enough to start any idi. Thoughts? Oregon FI says gunk in the IP, I haven't taken the head cover off yet. Thoughts before I start to tear into the fuel system again?

Thanks all!!

THANKS for update

No hot start on newly rebuilt IP.....sounds like a newly flushed IP ....cant see gunk being issue as it would be the whole time hard start if gunked...right???

Try quite a bit of tepid water on ip head next time.....like slowly pour gallon or more on cool that head down. If starts...IP is *** out...

JM7.3CW

 

[Greg5OH]

honestly, sounds crappy pump to me. i knwo ypu are probably thiking-but its brand new/rebuilt from a "reputable" company. I had a similar issue with pensacola diesel. the injectors were CRAP. long crank, engien running rough, smoking all the time. Popped in a set from R&D, a good trusted builder, and fired up sintantly and butter smooth idle, no shaking.
Money is on bad pump. Sorry man. Hope its not for your sake..