Air, White Smoke, Aggravated!

[Sms888]

Hi all,

I have a '94 IDIT auto 4x4, newly rebuilt, all new fuel system, good gp's, lift pump at 6psi, timed to 9.5(ferret), and I've got air and white smoke. She runs and pulls pretty good, but she smokes all the time and it's getting worse now that an air intrusion has developed. I have installed tygon lines in all the important spots and found that injector #1 is the trouble zone. It appears that air is getting in either under the cap or through line but I swapped orings and put a tygon line between cap 1 and 3. I took a video, hopefully this helps. The video is with the truck off, you can see air coming from cap 1, but there are 0 air bubbles while running. I have to reprime the truck every time I want to start it(elec aux pump aft lift pump). So is this purely bleed off, or is air getting in cylinder 1? The exhaust stinks like unburnt diesel too, no coolant loss either. 500 miles, trying to get all the kinks out still. My CDR seems to put out a little excessive oil too, not sure if related… Thanks all for help with the constant struggle!!


http://vid43.photobucket.com/albums/e353/sms888/IMG_4144.mp4

 

[crash-harris]

Welcome!

What size line did you use? I notice that you have a later style return cap with a green (earlier style) hose clamp on it.

 

[Sms888]

1/4" ID Tygon, the clamps are irrelevant because they are what I had that would actually fit the lines snug. The new return line kit it got from Oregon Fuel Injection had the larger red clamps for the 93-94 turbo's but they wouldn't fit the tygon. I am using the green clips and APA style clamps on the rest of the tygon lines and the rest is the black line with red clamps(stock).

 

[Shawn MacAnanny]

Leaks at the caps won't cause smoke or missing just fuel leaks. It's excess of what the injector needs to fire. It can cause hard starts. Have you checked your fuel sending unit hard lines leaving the tank? I had one rusted through drawing air intermittently.

Check the timing with the #4 injector too incase the #1 injector is messed up.

 

[riotwarrior]

Smelling raw fuel is unburnt fuel

Where are injectors from and are they NEW or rebuilt?

Where is IP from?

What timing light did you utilize to time said engine?

Air intrusion shouldnt cause smoke to the degree you speak.

Smoke like you describe is a piddling injector or one or more with low pop pressure firing way to soon so engine doesnot fully burn fuel.

JM7.3CW

 

[icanfixall]

Welcome to the forum. As already asked. Please tell us where you purchased these new injectors and injection pump. Not all newly rebuilt pumps or injectors are created the same. Buying for the cheapest ebay seller is really not the best idea either. My guess is you have some bad injectors. Try timing off the number 4 injector too. It times exactly the same as number one and ALL van application idi engines time off number 4. Also what timing tab probe location are you using? We use the tall skinny tube. Not the short fat tube that is actually the top dead center mark.

 

[Sms888]

All new equipment from Oregon Fuel Injection
rebuilt DB2 for 94 Turbo's
*New* G code injectors(I know, should've gotten BB's…)
Return kit for 93-94's

Innova light 3568a

Timing tab to short fat tube, there is no mark on the taller one, I guess that would set me off a degree or two?

I guess I'll try injector 4 today and aim for the center of the tall tube? I'll post back as soon as I get that done.

Still not sure what to do about my bleed off issue though, any thoughts? New caps? Even though they have 500miles on them… Also, my front tank is rebuilt, new sending unit, o-rings, grommets, vents, straps, etc… The only thing I didn't mess with is the lines that go to the selector valve. They looked fine though, felt good when I reconnected them. Again, no air until I turn the truck off, then the video shows the rest.

I think that covers it, thanks all!

 

[Sms888]

So, the verdict is in, 9Degrees on #4 at 2k at the TDC mark, no smoke, no air in the tygon. If I goose it, I get some nice black smoke, but otherwise ran clean. Seems to smoke a lot more when colder(duh) but I swear I'm getting air somewhere or could it be a return issue?

 

[icanfixall]

Why are you choosing to use the short fat timing tube at the damper tab. That location will not fit any mag probes I know of.I realize that is the tdc mark but for all the years and all the trucks I have timed we always use the tall skinny probe location. Maybe someone with more timing experience than I will chime in with help. Al.. What are you thoughts on this.

 

[icanfixall]

By any chance did you remove the injection pump gear cover with the injection pump and gear attached when you changed the pump? More I read what you have posted the more you engines sounds like its really retarded no matter what the timing is telling you. A badly retarded engine will smoke black plus the exhaust will smell of unburnt fuel. Reasons it smells like that is there is not enough time for the fuel to completely burn in the cylinders because of retarded timing.

 

[Sms888]

I'm using a Ferrett pulse adaptor with an adjustable timing light, not mag pick up. Everything I've read and seen indicates using the 0 mark for TDC. Did I miss something? Thanks for the input though.

 

[Sms888]

When the engine was rebuilt, I had to reinstall the gear cover and the new pump after the front cover was installed. I made sure the gear marks were lined up though(small mirror, pita). Again, it runs fairly well, fires right up after I prime it. Maybe something to do with the gp's? They are relatively new, I'll check their resistance soon. Controller seems to operate appropriately too.

 

[icanfixall]

Thanks for the posts. Now tell the forum what glow plugs are in the engines and... That injection pump gear mark did you use on the cam gear. Reason I ask this very important question is the cam gear has 2 completely different marks. One is the "Y" and one it the "." mark. You mix those up and the engine runs but not well. Those marks are 180 degrees out from each other. This forum has seen this happen a few times. A well know member back in the east called me one evening asking questions why an idi that was just freshened up like yours was running so badly timed correctly by his methods.... But was really 180 degrees out of time. The customer took it to a shop and they messed up the cam and injection pump gear marks. He got the job when they gave up on fixing it.. They really screwed over that poor guy. But the magic from this forum fixed it and the owner was forever grateful and very appreciated of the "find"...
Everyone here is really trying to help you but more information is needed to get to the bottom of this.

 

[riotwarrior]

When the engine was rebuilt, I had to reinstall the gear cover and the new pump after the front cover was installed. I made sure the gear marks were lined up though(small mirror, pita). Again, it runs fairly well, fires right up after I prime it. Maybe something to do with the gp's? They are relatively new, I'll check their resistance soon. Controller seems to operate appropriately too.

You have not told us where the

NEW Injection Pump is from

Or

NEW Injectors are from...or if they are NEW or just reconditioned or even if pop tested.

 

[Shawn MacAnanny]

He said Oregon fuel injection I believe. Even if timing is retarded the ferret should pick that up though right? It won't pick up cam being 180 which I'm not sure how it'd run though? Unless I'm missing something.