air lock

[riotwarrior]

IFN you gotta crank and crank....pull GP's and do so under no compression yer batteries and starter will LOVE you for it...

Once you got FUEL install GPs and fuel lines...should fire right away...

JM2CW

 

[catbird7]

Last night I filled the injection pump with ATF. Tried again this evening and still nothing. Tonight I'm going to open the little side panel (where you adjust the fuel flats) and allow the atf to run out. Then I'll reinstall the panel and remove the return line fitting from the top of the pump and use that as a port to fill the pump with the with carb cleaner. Tommorrow, we'll give her another try. The speedo says 52,000 miles and prev owner (which was not the original) said he thought the truck had just 152,000 miles. Not sure if there's a way to check if this is the original pump or not??? Truck originated from Kansas and at one time was likely very nice for the era. Anxious to get it running and swap my F350 front axle and ZF. Thanks again for all of the suggestions........

 

[gandalf]

Half the battle is eliminating possibilities. Rule out this, rule out that...

Is the IP original? That's a hard thing to tell sometimes. If it's painted Ford gray, the chances of it's being original go up. Look also at the name/data plate on the side. Many rebuilders will replace the original ID plate with one having their own name.

IF you decide to replace the IP with a rebuilt unit, be absolutely sure to read the HALL of SHAME, a section at the beginning of this forum. Not all rebuilds are created equal. Some rebuilders just clean up the IP, and repaint it, and call it good. So, do your homework before you spend your money. Other than that warning, the members here will be very happy to help you spend your money.

 

[Black dawg]

While you have the top off of the pump, make sure that the driveshaft is turning the pump.

 

[riotwarrior]

ya when you remove the side cover...bump the starter over and have a gander is it turning if so that's a good sign

 

[bbjordan]

Oh ya. I forgot to mention: Keep it surgically clean!

 

[catbird7]

soaking in a mixture of liquid wrench, PB Blaster, and atf for tonight. I'll try cranking again tomorrow evening. If no fuel again, I'll remove the side cover and verify it turns when cranking. The plate on the side says: Stanadyne DB24812 3300 650331 1-92JF F9TZ9A4 D22 FJ. These are all of the numbers on the plate and remember most of these I had to read backward while viewing them in a mirror so they could be wrong??? I wonder if the 1-92JF number means it's a 1992 pump??? I have another pump that was removed from a running engine however it's unknown how many miles are on it. The plate on this pump has fewer numbers, they are DB2831 4732 J 6226999 1813250C91. If all else fails, I may attempt changing pumps which is something I've never tried.

 

[icanfixall]

Catbird. Please read all you can about the CORRECT WAY to remove and install an injection pump.
That number off the second pump appears to be an International part number so its not from ford. Hopefully it has a governor spring for the Ford pickups and not the International heavy duty S1600 dump trucks or the U haul moving trucks.

 

[79jasper]

I think I would've left out the pb blaster and maybe the liquid wrench.
The pb blaster is some nasty chit. Works good, don't get me wrong. But it's pretty harsh. Melts plastic.
JMHO

Sent from my SM-T537R4 using Tapatalk

 

[Black dawg]

ya when you remove the side cover...bump the starter over and have a gander is it turning if so that's a good sign

Yes, you can look through the side cover to see if the pump is turning, but it is easier if you already have the top off. You can see all you need to see through the top of the pump.

And I wouldnt bump the starter, only turn over using tools. It would be my luck that the thing would decide to run.

 

[riotwarrior]

wont run ifn say...injector lines are NOT connected

 

[Black dawg]

wont run ifn say...injector lines are NOT connected

correct

 

[catbird7]

I re-connected all of the injector (hard lines) and removed the glow plugs (they were all beru's, good sign). Cranked away several times and still nothing. No hiss when I crack the lines and nothing coming out of the glow plug holes. I was hoping to let this engine (6.9) in the truck for now and rebuild the 7.3 I'm currently running in the huntin truck. Deer season is all but over and that's when the major wrench work is going to start, so I need to pick a direction and GO! I also removed the top off of the injection pump again and played with the fuel shut off solenoid and it definitely works. The other injection pump I have worked when removed however that's been several years ago so I'm afraid if I go to the trouble of changing them, it's very likely to produce the same results. So I may consider purchasing a rebuilt pump however I'll probably do a compression check on each cylinder to get and idea on engine condition. The turbo has only a small amount of play and the coolant looks good, in fact the previous owner installed a coolant filter. Someone cared for this truck in it's earlier years, motorcraft oil and fuel filter, fleet guard coolant filter, beru glow plugs, banks turbo, and gauges for everything (water temp, oil pressure, boost, pyro, fuel pressure). Too bad the stinkin injection pump took a dive!

 

[jaluhn83]

Remove 1 or more of the injection lines from the rear of the pump. Loosen the rest at the injectors. Remove the return line fitting assembly from the top cover (that is, all you should have left is the blank hole into the pump) and crank the engine. You should see significant fuel flow out of the pump housing. If you have an electric pump, you should get fuel flow out anytime the pump is one with this fitting removed, and for sure see fuel flow when cranking. If you don't and you're getting fuel to the inlet then you have a pump issue.

The pump can get air bound where it will not prime. Had this happen to me a few weeks ago. The return line fitting hold a certain pressure within the pump housing and you can get in a situation (rarely) where it woln't self prime or will take a very very long time. If you pull this fitting and have clean fuel out of the top of the pump then you know there's plenty of fuel in the pump. If you have that and still no fuel out the injection lines then you have a pump problem. If you pull the lines off the pump then you know for sure the pump is either pumping or not. If you only loosen at the injectors it may take a while to purge air, so it's hard to tell.

You should get a noticable amount of fuel squirting out of each injector port. It's not a huge amount, but for sure enough to notice and more than a dribble. Something like several drops from an eyedropper.

Well over 90% of the times I've though I had a majorly failed injection pump on a diesel it's turned out not to be and rather something like air lock. These pumps are surprisingly tough, and it's rare to have a complete failure short of a sheared driveshaft. Might run poorly, but it should still give you fuel.

 

[catbird7]

OK guys, I finally gave up and changed my first ever injection pump with a used one I already had. Turned on the electric fuel pump held the pedal to the floor and cranked. Fuel misted out of the glow plug holes so I installed the glow plugs, gave it a shot of either (I know some guys hate the stuff) and it immediately fired up. Unfortunately it was wide open throttle and did not shut off when I turned the key to OFF! Lucky I had a ball valve on the fuel line which I shut off and the engine died. Now I'm afraid to fire it up again till I know what I did wrong. Remember I had the top off of the injection pump and maybe I didn't get it installed correctly. It appeared to me the little arm that sticks down (the one the solenoid moves) fit into a groove, so thats how I reassembled it. It made a clicking noise when I applied 12volts to it so I assumed it worked ??? Any ideas what I should do next?