93 f250 headlight switch pin out-change OEM switch to toggles

[Jcsheriff]

Ok all, got another project to get this truck ready to pass inspection. I have the usual issue with the headlight switch acting up. I removed the dash cover and pulled the assembly out. The connector had the loose burned wire. So I was searching for a write up on removing the original switch and installing illuminated toggle to operate auxiliary, parking and headlights. I couldn’t find one, you might ask why? I can only say that I like toggles and I don’t plan on giving up the truck, when she’s no longer road worthy she’ll work until I bury her on the ranch, lol.

so what I need help with is some sort of a pin out that tells me what’s what. I included a diagram of my connector that I drew from the angle of looking at it. Using the black wire with orange stripe as a power source, I used a jumper wire to probe each wire to see what powered up. The one with parentheses that have a question mark, I got nothing from when I applied power. I was hoping someone could help me out or may have had experience doing something like this.

thanks in advance

 

[IDIBRONCO]

If you do go with a toggle switch, be sure to power the lights themselves off of a relay. Us the toggle switch only to power the relay. All of the power that goes to the lights goes through the OEM headlight switch.

 

[Jcsheriff]

Thanks for the input, haven’t found much information to help me with my search. Any idea why I should use the relay instead of using toggles inline?

 

[TNBrett]

Because most toggle switches can’t handle the amount of current that the headlights draw. That high current draw is what causes the original switches to fail. If you run relays, a separate one for each headlight high and low, 4 total, would be best. That way each relay is only carrying a fraction of the current. Also make sure you don’t forget to add fuses to everything you do for the headlights. In the original configuration circuit protection was in the form of an automatic circuit breaker built into the light switch. But if you add relays, there’s really no reason not to just repair the harness, and replace the switch with another factory style switch. Alternatively you could also replace the lights with LEDs, that’s what I did. They draw much less current than the halogens, and your switch should live a long and happy life.

 

[Jcsheriff]

Thank you Brett, that explained allot for me. My last question would be an I correct in assuming somewhere from each light there should be a “y” between the light and the wire that runs from the switch? Because that is where I’d have to split the spice to run the wires to the switches independently- correct ? Have you seen any write up on something like this? I’ve had such a hard time finding what I’m looking for.