Hello, I just bought a 93 f350 with a 7.3 idi. I replaced the batteries, battery cables, starter, glow plugs, glow plug solenoid, fuel filter and fuel shutoff solenoid. But still when I go to crank it it cranks and cranks but doesn’t start. I have also tried bleeding the fuel lines by cracking the injectors and from the shroeder valve on top of the fuel filter. I’m sort of at a loss as to what to check next. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
93 7.3 idi crank no start
- Thread starter ShinerA
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- 7.3 diesel crank no start
IDIBRONCO
IDIBRONCO
Are you getting fuel at the Schrader valve and the injectors? Have you tried stepping on the throttle while you're cranking the starter? Are your batteries in good shape and fully charged? So your glow plugs work? What condition is your starter in? If your starter doesn't spin the engine over fast enough, you can try it all day long and your engine won't start. You can also try plugging in the block heater for a couple of hours and then trying the starter.
Jesus Freak
Full Access Member
If it's a manual transmission try having someone pull start you.
Big Bart
Tow&Slow
You are not alone, often when the system is opened up or has sat for a long time it can be a little difficult to bleed it.
Was the truck running before you did this work or come from the PO with it used to run till………? Thus you bought it not running?
Some additional thoughts to the above.
1) Did you refill the fuel filter with diesel or atf or just put it on empty?
2) Did you replace the starter, cables, and batteries because it would not turn over or would not start? To IDIBronco’s comment above it has to turn at a fairly good clip to start. I will assume it does after all that unless you state otherwise.
3) Although you did some glow plug work did you test after to see if they are working? Generally if your wait to start light goes on and stays on for 8-15 seconds they are working. If it does not come on or just for one second it is not working.
4) You replaced the fuel shut off solenoid. So double check it is getting power and it clicks when it does. If it does not open it’s not going to start. (Your injector lines will never bleed properly as nothing or little to nothing is going to them.)
5) Bleeding the lines can take some time. So do it when you have time and are in a good mood.
a) Hook a battery charger to your batteries to keep them charged.
b) Fill up your fuel filter or do it again.
c) Test by turning over the engine for pressure on a gauge or test by opening the schrader valve to see if the lift pump or electric pump is working. It should squirt diesel or show 3-7psi. A bad lift pump or stuck tank transfer switch is very common. Since the truck is new to you do not assume they work!
d) If no on the pressure test, now pressure test the fuel line between the lift pump and fuel tank to see if it is blocked. Use the rubber hose off the lift pump to the gas tank with a vacuum pump to pull diesel or via 5psi of compressed air to blow to see if you hear bubbles in the tank. That rules out a blockage. Some run a hose to a 5 gallon fuel can and to the lift pump. That takes the supply side of the lift pump out of the equation. But no pressure and no blockage likely a bad lift pump too.
e) So everything you tested seems to be working then it’s time to bleed the system. Wear safety glasses. I crack all the lines at the injectors, but pull up on the line, just loosening the nut a little does not always break open the line. Now I crank for 10 seconds on, 20 second off, 6 times. If I start to see diesel leaking out/shooting out I may do it one more time. If not I would do it another 6 times and check. If you have a assistant you can just watch till they start to leak diesel. Then make them all snug tight, hulk tight will damage them. Now if the lift pump, glow plugs, IP solenoid, IP, and injectors are all working it should start. It will run poorly for a minute or so, then as the air bleeds out start to idle normally.
f) In a recent thread someone used a vacuum pump with a brake bleeder attachment, and hooked a shader valve fitting to vacuum side to hook up to the schrader valve on the fuel filter housing and suck the air out of the fuel filter. That sucked diesel from the tank and thus primed the supply lines and fuel filter. I thought that would help when you replace a fuel filter. So food for thought.
Let us know what you find and attach some pics.
Often when you buy a new truck and do a bunch of work it can be challenging to get it running as you have changes so much it is hard to know if a repair did not get done right or if the truck had other unknown issues. But this membership is here to help you figure it out.
Welcome to the club Shiner!
Was the truck running before you did this work or come from the PO with it used to run till………? Thus you bought it not running?
Some additional thoughts to the above.
1) Did you refill the fuel filter with diesel or atf or just put it on empty?
2) Did you replace the starter, cables, and batteries because it would not turn over or would not start? To IDIBronco’s comment above it has to turn at a fairly good clip to start. I will assume it does after all that unless you state otherwise.
3) Although you did some glow plug work did you test after to see if they are working? Generally if your wait to start light goes on and stays on for 8-15 seconds they are working. If it does not come on or just for one second it is not working.
4) You replaced the fuel shut off solenoid. So double check it is getting power and it clicks when it does. If it does not open it’s not going to start. (Your injector lines will never bleed properly as nothing or little to nothing is going to them.)
5) Bleeding the lines can take some time. So do it when you have time and are in a good mood.
a) Hook a battery charger to your batteries to keep them charged.
b) Fill up your fuel filter or do it again.
c) Test by turning over the engine for pressure on a gauge or test by opening the schrader valve to see if the lift pump or electric pump is working. It should squirt diesel or show 3-7psi. A bad lift pump or stuck tank transfer switch is very common. Since the truck is new to you do not assume they work!
d) If no on the pressure test, now pressure test the fuel line between the lift pump and fuel tank to see if it is blocked. Use the rubber hose off the lift pump to the gas tank with a vacuum pump to pull diesel or via 5psi of compressed air to blow to see if you hear bubbles in the tank. That rules out a blockage. Some run a hose to a 5 gallon fuel can and to the lift pump. That takes the supply side of the lift pump out of the equation. But no pressure and no blockage likely a bad lift pump too.
e) So everything you tested seems to be working then it’s time to bleed the system. Wear safety glasses. I crack all the lines at the injectors, but pull up on the line, just loosening the nut a little does not always break open the line. Now I crank for 10 seconds on, 20 second off, 6 times. If I start to see diesel leaking out/shooting out I may do it one more time. If not I would do it another 6 times and check. If you have a assistant you can just watch till they start to leak diesel. Then make them all snug tight, hulk tight will damage them. Now if the lift pump, glow plugs, IP solenoid, IP, and injectors are all working it should start. It will run poorly for a minute or so, then as the air bleeds out start to idle normally.
f) In a recent thread someone used a vacuum pump with a brake bleeder attachment, and hooked a shader valve fitting to vacuum side to hook up to the schrader valve on the fuel filter housing and suck the air out of the fuel filter. That sucked diesel from the tank and thus primed the supply lines and fuel filter. I thought that would help when you replace a fuel filter. So food for thought.
Let us know what you find and attach some pics.
Often when you buy a new truck and do a bunch of work it can be challenging to get it running as you have changes so much it is hard to know if a repair did not get done right or if the truck had other unknown issues. But this membership is here to help you figure it out.
Welcome to the club Shiner!
Last edited:
MJGenay
Full Access Member
Figure I'm better resurrecting this thread than starting a new topic. Trucks been sitting for a few days as the brake booster went out, replaced that yesterday. Went to start it today and it turns over real well but doesn't catch at all. I found the plug (plastic protector broke off) for the fast idle solenoid was sitting on the IP housing. I'm wondering if that could've shorted out my fuel shutoff solenoid? With the key in the on position I am getting power to the FSS. No noticeable clicking or anything except from the glow plug relay. Attempted to call up a few Stanadyne dealers but it's the 23rd and no-one is around. I get fuel spitting out of the Schrader valve when I crank it.
I'm looking at this one: https://www.amazon.com/Injection-Solenoid-26214-Stanadyne-Master/dp/B07KQQ3BTG/ref=sr_1_3?crid=3BVSMS4SVSOWR&keywords=fuel+shutoff+solenoid+stanadyne&qid=1671819603&s=automotive&sprefix=fuel+shutoff+solenoid+stanadyne,automotive,175&sr=1-3&ufe=app_do:amzn1.fos.006c50ae-5d4c-4777-9bc0-4513d670b6bc
Anyone have any experience with these?
EDIT: I take that back. The FSS clicks when I unplug it or plug it, I'm just going deaf I guess. I'm going to try to get a friend over to crank the engine when I crack the injector lines.
I'm looking at this one: https://www.amazon.com/Injection-Solenoid-26214-Stanadyne-Master/dp/B07KQQ3BTG/ref=sr_1_3?crid=3BVSMS4SVSOWR&keywords=fuel+shutoff+solenoid+stanadyne&qid=1671819603&s=automotive&sprefix=fuel+shutoff+solenoid+stanadyne,automotive,175&sr=1-3&ufe=app_do:amzn1.fos.006c50ae-5d4c-4777-9bc0-4513d670b6bc
Anyone have any experience with these?
EDIT: I take that back. The FSS clicks when I unplug it or plug it, I'm just going deaf I guess. I'm going to try to get a friend over to crank the engine when I crack the injector lines.
Last edited:
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