86, block heater question ,,

[nhwrench01]

I was looking for first hand experience with people who use there block heater on their 6.9.
my vin tag shows a build date of 12/85.
I have looked at the block area of the heater and it does have the deep milled space by the dip stick tube and ( what i think ) is the thicker casting around the block heater..
its been very cold in the N.E. and it would help alot with starting in the morning,, but not if the block cracks...
I know people will say just put a inline heater on it, but i like the thought of things working like they should,, but if i have to add a inline,,,,
and no, im not driving it everyday,, yet, just .
Thanks nhwernch01

 

[KansasIDI]

I was looking for first hand experience with people who use there block heater on their 6.9.
my vin tag shows a build date of 12/85.
I have looked at the block area of the heater and it does have the deep milled space by the dip stick tube and ( what i think ) is the thicker casting around the block heater..
its been very cold in the N.E. and it would help alot with starting in the morning,, but not if the block cracks...
I know people will say just put a inline heater on it, but i like the thought of things working like they should,, but if i have to add a inline,,,,
and no, im not driving it everyday,, yet, just .
Thanks nhwernch01

I wouldn’t be afraid of it, as long as it’s the thicker casting. I plug my 7.3 IDI in once it gets about -10* F (usually, but I’ve not done so the last couple times it was that cold)

What’s your engine serial number?

 

[nhwrench01]

I wouldn’t be afraid of it, as long as it’s the thicker casting. I plug my 7.3 IDI in once it gets about -10* F (usually, but I’ve not done so the last couple times it was that cold)

What’s your engine serial number?

hhhmmmm,, dont know the serial number... ill have to look..

 

[Kevin 007]

Without looking at the serial number, if you look at the dipstick tube near the block heater area, the casting is slight "raised" and curls around the dipstick tube, on the later thicker castings.

 

[nhwrench01]

from what i can see, drivers front by the injection pump, its 69d u2 d282974...

 

[nhwrench01]

Without looking at the serial number, if you look at the dipstick tube near the block heater area, the casting is slight "raised" and curls around the dipstick tube, on the later thicker castings.

ill look at that too,, thank you

 

[nhwrench01]

You must be registered for see images attach

 

[nhwrench01]

well, the block isnt cracked, but the heater is leaking some,,, sooooo,,,, looks like ill be changing that and doing the new radiator at the same time...

 

[Kevin 007]

That's a good block. Ya the heaters leak after time. Not a big deal to change, when the starter is out of the way. You might get some coolant down your arm, but life goes on

 

[HammerDown]

Bummer... my block heater works but, if I use it the rubber O-Rings weeps coolant.
Oddly and thankfully it doesn't weep at all when the engine is running or sitting ... but only if I plug it in.
Guessing the o-ring has become brittle/compromised.

 

[nhwrench01]

nope, no big deal,,after all the work ive done on this thing so far,,, a block heater is not bad at all..
Bought it for a good price, ( for a running diesel in NH,) just some of the stuff but not limited too, front axle u joints, locking hubs,seals,calipers, used c6 transmission, deep pan,extra cooler, power steering pump,front drive shaft joints,2 batteries,starter, t" case seal,rear brakes( everything,and E cables), rear fuel tank, 2 sending units, 2 cab corners,rockers, floor pans, exhaust from manifolds back,,,,,,,,, with front fenders, radiator, and more to do,,,, i can handle this.... .. thanks for all the help.... great people here....

 

[IDIBRONCO]

From what I can see in your picture, it looks like you have the later block. Mine quit working and it seeps from around the center bolt/screw a little bit. Since I also need to retorque my head studs and stop the leaking rear main seal, I'm going to wait until I have the engine pulled out in a few months. All one of the three can be done with the engine in the truck, but all three at once? No thanks! I'm pulling the engine.

 

[Kevin 007]

From what I can see in your picture, it looks like you have the later block. Mine quit working and it seeps from around the center bolt/screw a little bit. Since I also need to retorque my head studs and stop the leaking rear main seal, I'm going to wait until I have the engine pulled out in a few months. All one of the three can be done with the engine in the truck, but all three at once? No thanks! I'm pulling the engine.

Is re-torquing head studs a thing? I re-torque every idi I touch that has bolts still, and never blown a head gasket with them, and they always take quite a bit to achieve spec, so im sold on the idea.. But I've always left the studs alone after they're installed.

 

[IDIBRONCO]

Is re-torquing head studs a thing? I re-torque every idi I touch that has bolts still, and never blown a head gasket with them, and they always take quite a bit to achieve spec, so im sold on the idea.. But I've always left the studs alone after they're installed.

I don't know except that these were from Justin and the instructions said to torque them to factory specs. They were at 100, but most say to pit them at 125 which I'm going to do before I install a turbo. Not that a first gen Banks will be much of a threat, but better safe than sorry.

 

[Kevin 007]

I don't know except that these were from Justin and the instructions said to torque them to factory specs. They were at 100, but most say to pit them at 125 which I'm going to do before I install a turbo. Not that a first gen Banks will be much of a threat, but better safe than sorry.

Good call. Yes I go to 125 on 1/2'' studs also. Just took a set of Gator studs to 125 an hr ago