7.3l idi few questions

alaskan155

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im swapping this motor into my 90 bronco
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is this blow by pretty normal in the vid?, some one relocated the cdr to the d/s vavle cover before i got it, i assume to put a turbo on it.

also i was out there looking at the engine(have it pulled for the swap and to do rear main, clutch, fuel return, and clean the wirng up, but there is a hose on the bottom of the air cleaner assembly, where is it suppose to go, the hose it cut it, and could i run the cdr into there or would a road draft tube be better like i have setup on my 02 7.3l ps f250?


thankyou
 

Big Bart

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I will let others discuss their ideas on blowby, never have pulled off my CDR to look. But that does not look too bad to me.

The stock air cleaners have a drip tube off them. Guessing so if you take in some water through the front snorkel it can drain. Guessing if they put the cdr on the valve cover and pulled off the drip tube perhaps they were going to put a tube between. However that will eventually clog the air filter. If you are not going to turbo, suggest you put the cdr back where it came from. Some have used a drip can but said it effected performance. So it appears the CDR valve works the best for managing blowby and removing oil from it.
 

hacked89

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You can use a road draft tube but it’s not pretty. I have also heard what Bart said that the engine runs better getting the cdr back into the intake. I’ve tested going to the atmosphere aka road draft on my engine run stand and it seemed just as strong as ever.
 

frankenwrench

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I myself went a different rout and have had good luck the past two years or so without a cdr at all. Used the banks part that goes on the ip gear housing and routed my crankcase gasses to a catch can on the frame rail and from the catch can back to the intake tube. Used n/a valve covers and am currently turboed. The wifes, however, has the cdr mounted as yours is on the valve cover and is also routed to a catch can on the frame rail and back to the intake tube. I am sure you could Jerry something up to work with a stock n/a breather. Or add a turbo and go with one of my routs or figure one of your own, or you could put the cdr back on the intake as others have suggested and put a n/a valve cover in place of the valve cover currently housing your cdr. Many ways to skin this cat. But as far as that amount of blowby, to me it doesn't seem that bad. My current 7.3 has reset the odometer at least a handfull of times. The wifes engine has about 40,000 miles and looks about the same
 

IDIBRONCO

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I'll agree about the blowby. It looks fine to me. These engines are designed with large ring gaps so they always have a lot of blowby. Gasoline engine people think that our engines are about to die a quick, painful death when they see our blowby, but they are wrong.
 

alaskan155

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well thankyou everyone, now i have some ideas, might just revert it to stock for now/run the catch can. and plug the hole in the valve cover. i want to do a turbo but its not in the budget.(keep looking at r&d kit, there not to far from me),
 

Black dawg

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blow by looks normal if it is warmed up. Is that not a leaky exhuast valve I hear in the video??
 

alaskan155

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i believe it was just a exhuast leak, right after the y pipe there was a cut and the flex pipe going to the stack was leaking , engine looks to have reman heads on it.
 

Mattc2066

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I dont know this for a fact but what I have read is the proper test for blow by on these engines is to remove the oil fill cap, turn it upside down and set it back on the hole. if the blow by does not try to blow the cap off then it is acceptable.
 

IDIBRONCO

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That may work for the '86 and older 6.9s, but for the 87 6.9 and the 7.3s it probably won't work. The oil fill is angled/sloped on the later engines and the cap probably won't sit on there even with the engine shut off.
 
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