7.3 return line kit install

[Defrocked]

So if I'm just doing the return kit I wouldn't run into these correct.Im not taking the injectors off.

 

[theguruat12]

So if I'm just doing the return kit I wouldn't run into these correct.Im not taking the injectors off.

Correct. They sit under the injectors which will stay in the heads.

 

[Defrocked]

Almost done,had 1 glow plug on drivers side that wasn't connected
Ran into a snag though,passenger side cap closest to fuel filter and pump has a weird extension on injector on top of return cap that I can't get out.What is that and how do I take it off to put the new one on?

 

[Wyreth]

Almost done,had 1 glow plug on drivers side that wasn't connected
Ran into a snag though,passenger side cap closest to fuel filter and pump has a weird extension on injector on top of return cap that I can't get out.What is that and how do I take it off to put the new one on?

That's the factory timing adapter they used to time our trucks back in the day. You should be able to hold it with a wrench, while loosening the injector line. Then unthread it from the injector. DO NOT throw it away. You will need to re-install it because the #1 injector line is shortened to account for the adapter.

On a side note, if you really don't like the adapter, you can use the #1 injector line from a Van 7.3, as they had the adapter on cylinder #4.

 

[icanfixall]

Wyreth speaks the truth asbout the number one injecter timing fitting. Just put a wrench on the injecter body and then wrench off the timing adapter with a 5/8 inch wrench. It comes off just like an injecter line nut does. I leave that timing fitting loose till I can completely hand tighten the line nut. I always have trouble getting the line nut to not cross thread no matter how many different injecters I have used on that cylinder.

 

[icanfixall]

If you just have to remove that injecter because the adapter is so tight that a vice is needed to remove it simply replace the bottom copper gasket and torque down that injecter to 35 lbs. Simple job.

 

[DaytonaBill]

On a side note, if you really don't like the adapter, you can use the #1 injector line from a Van 7.3, as they had the adapter on cylinder #4.

Which I did...

 

[Defrocked]

Well,fired up and only one visible leak from filter head to #1 injector at line near crimp.Just switched out crimp with old screw clamp and done.The real test will be tomorrow morning to see how she fires up.Still haven't changed the olives.

 

[Defrocked]

Thanks for all the " on the fly" help guys!!Really appreciate

Chris thanks for the offer and your garage,luckily got a break in the weather to get'er done.

 

[Defrocked]

Well not much of a difference from before.Gonna test the glow plugs and hopefully switch the olives out by Monday.
WTS light stays on for about 10-12 sec,a bit chilly this morning..maybe low 30's.

 

[Defrocked]

Ok,so I haven't gotten the olives yet so haven't been able to change them out yet but with the cold it's now getting worse and worse.The trucks starts 1st but stumbles and dies shortly after,followed by 1-10 sec crank to start and blows out a huge amount of white smoke.Its really annoying not because at this pace I figure in 2 more wks I will need a new starter
Also if I let it sit for 2 hrs It will do the same thing,still air in the lines??

 

[jas88]

New olives and an electric fuel pump fixed mine.