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7.3 Noob questions

Discussion in '7.3L Powerstroke Diesels' started by 264WSM, Oct 10, 2020.

  1. 264WSM

    264WSM Full Access Member

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    I've had IDIs since the 90's, but about 2 years ago jumped into the PSs. I got a few questions:

    How do I tell if this is "chipped"? It has lots more power than my IDI, but is that normal or do I have a chip? Where do I look for this "chip"?

    Clutch pedal bushings. After 20 minutes of city driving my clutch pedal starts to squeak and get sticky/tacky. I'm guessing there are nylon bushings that need replacing. Are there good aftermarket ones??

    What should my EGT and Boost be??
    EGTs seem high - 900 unladen on a slight up grade. 1100 if I put my foot into it on the flats. The sensor is after the turbo. In My Detroit Series 60 I never see over 1000 after the turbo and 1320 before the turbo. If the new gauge is accurate, I'm thinking exhaust restriction or leaking air to air cooler.

    Boost. I see around 20 with my foot in it unladen. I haven't pulled with it yet since I put the gauge in.

    Parking brake won't stay locked down. Is this a common problem?? Where do I even start looking for replacement parts for this?

    I'm pretty rural and good parts stores are 80 miles away. If there are things I can order online, it will save me trips back and forth to town.

    2000 F-350 DRW 6 speed
     
  2. 79jasper

    79jasper Chickenhawk

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    1. Look at the pcm. But it could have been flash tuned, and there's no real way to know.
    2. Pretty sure ford is the only option for the factory style pedal box bushings. There is a upgrade, a search may find it.
    3. Most say stay under 1200 sustained when pre turbo. You're probably pretty close.
    4. Irrc, 20 is about all you'll get stock. So probably isn't tuned, unless you have exhaust leaks pre turbo.
    5. Likely the parking brake pedal assembly, can be bought new on Amazon.
    6. Many sites you can order from. For engine electrical parts, stick with motorcraft. Diesel orings, riffraff, cncfab, rock auto, Amazon, are good sites to order from.

    Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
     
  3. greenskeeper

    greenskeeper Full Access Member

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    sounds stock

    post-turbo EGT is practically useless IMO. Move the pyro to pre-turbo and then keep it under 1300F

    with a stock truck, it's almost impossible to have dangerous exhaust temps.
     
  4. 264WSM

    264WSM Full Access Member

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    I have a few more issues:
    When I am lightly on the throttle (most of the time as I drive like an senior citizen), it will spitter and miss. If I get harder on the pedal - all is good. On cruise control - all is good. Could this be a throttle position sensor?? Where is it??

    My SERVICE ENGINE SOON yellow light is now on constantly. There are no codes. All old codes were cleared and it is still on. This started after I had the entire glow plug system replaced (plugs, wires, fuel heater) and installed gauges including a fuel pressure gauge.
     
  5. greenskeeper

    greenskeeper Full Access Member

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    SES means there is a code stored. Could be you aren't able to read it with the scanner that you are using.

    Try blowing compressed air around the TPS and IVS assembly where the pedal attaches to the wiring harness. You could also disconnect and clean the harness contacts with Deoxit electrical cleaner.
     
  6. 264WSM

    264WSM Full Access Member

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  7. Philip1

    Philip1 Supporting Member Supporting Member

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    IVS- Idle Validation Switch. It tells the ecu that your foot is off the throttle
    The tps is your throttle pedal and I believe the ivs is built into it as well
     
  8. 264WSM

    264WSM Full Access Member

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    OK. Thorough cleaning of both once the snow stops.
     
  9. greenskeeper

    greenskeeper Full Access Member

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    Also find a way to read that code related to the SES light. Could be a code for the TPS/IVS or something else. Once you get the code post it here.
     

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