Justin Short
Registered User
Wouldn't that give other symptoms as well? Blue smoke or anything?? And And they all seem to effect the truck the exact same when the cap is loosened.
Good information to know as well!
7.3 Idles Rough, Runs Great Otherwise
- Thread starter Justin Short
- Start date
Wouldn't that give other symptoms as well? Blue smoke or anything?? And And they all seem to effect the truck the exact same when the cap is loosened.
Good information to know as well!
Who installed the pump? Was the gear cover removed?
My guess is those injectors are leaking or opening at very different pressures. Pensacola is notorious.
Heath
My dually was in the same boat, had a new pump and injectors. Just pulled the engine to reseal and set it up for real boost and found I had 3 bad injectors. So yea dont rule them out.
They were cheapie parts store ones. Went with some R&D stg1s this time around.
They were cheapie parts store ones. Went with some R&D stg1s this time around.
Macrobb
Full Access Member
I'd say injectors. Your timing was probably pretty good; I've always had good luck with doing it by ear.
For it to handle right with that much retard on the IP, either the IP's timing wasn't correctly set at the factory, or those injectors are popping /really/ low.
I'd just invest in a injector pop pressure tester. They are like $100-150 on Ebay, and that way you can tell what your injectors are doing.
I've had horrible luck with "remanufactured" injectors; they just plain sucked for me. Had one totally fail within 1k miles or so.
After that, I just rebuilt them myself... which worked OK, but as I was still using worn parts, they all wear differently.
If you intend to rebuild your own injectors, you need to get /new/ nozzles to put in the injectors.
R&D sold me some for mine, but I'm not sure if that's a deal anyone can get - The injectors I build with those(stage 1's) are very nice; pulled them after 10K or so and they were all perfectly consistent.
For it to handle right with that much retard on the IP, either the IP's timing wasn't correctly set at the factory, or those injectors are popping /really/ low.
I'd just invest in a injector pop pressure tester. They are like $100-150 on Ebay, and that way you can tell what your injectors are doing.
I've had horrible luck with "remanufactured" injectors; they just plain sucked for me. Had one totally fail within 1k miles or so.
After that, I just rebuilt them myself... which worked OK, but as I was still using worn parts, they all wear differently.
If you intend to rebuild your own injectors, you need to get /new/ nozzles to put in the injectors.
R&D sold me some for mine, but I'm not sure if that's a deal anyone can get - The injectors I build with those(stage 1's) are very nice; pulled them after 10K or so and they were all perfectly consistent.
Justin Short
Registered User
Update: took to reputable shop to test timing because I am impatient. They said they set it to 9* BTDC and my adjustment when I brought it in was at 6*. Runs the same but still has a shake at idle. Exhaust is not rubbing as well. I have decided to just drive it and realize its 30 years old.
P.s. I hate when forums don't have a conclusion.
Thanks!
P.s. I hate when forums don't have a conclusion.
Thanks!
Nah.Don't think like that.Just because it's 30 years old,doesn't mean it shouldn't run right.Get yourself some new injectors sometime.
Macrobb
Full Access Member
Remember, crummy injectors will definitely screw with your timing - you are only timing a single injector, at whatever pop pressure that is.
If other injectors are either higher or lower, that cylinder will be either advanced or retarded /compared to the injector you tested/.
If other injectors are either higher or lower, that cylinder will be either advanced or retarded /compared to the injector you tested/.
sjwelds
Full Access Member
So 4 or more posters saying "injectors" isn't a conclusion?
jwalterus
Made in America
To the OP: Don't dismiss a voice of experience offhand, many people have done that over the years...........
So your truck is N/A at this point, correct?
Compression is even, but what are the numbers? Perhaps the reason it had a turbo at one point was to make up for a worn engine? How many miles on the truck/engine?
You cracked the lines to check the injectors, the question is, can you tell a dead miss from a weak hole when you have more than one at the same time? It takes a learned ear.
The next question is, are your injectors even all one type? What are the code stamps?
Did you clean the seats/bores when you replaced the injectors? Did you get the old washer out of EVERY hole and replace them?
Buy or build a pop tester and check them all out (and recheck the injector bores), it will probably cost you less than you just paid that shop to time your truck even if you buy one. Maybe you have a couple that are popping at different pressures or not atomizing properly.
Are your GPs seated properly?
Is this your only vehicle?
You really need to check the injectors now, who knows, maybe you only need one, maybe you need 2, but if you find some that aren't up to *****, that won't mean you have to replace them all.
Just remember, your injectors and IP are a 100k service item, fix it right at this point, and you'll have years before you have to do it again, and to be honest, if you re-time the truck, you can extend that period, not indefinitely, but some until you can afford to replace them again.
If you don't fix the issue, do you think you'll be happy with the truck for 10 years like this? Probably not. This isn't even bringing up the added vibrational stress on the trans, body mounts, engine mounts, hard lines, etc. from the rough running engine.
Fixed it for ya.
Make it 5 now
Justin Short
Registered User
Sorry guys just jumped back on to check. I was meaning when you are reading through forums on peoples problems and you never learn if the actual problem was fixed or they gave up
I am assuming the injectors can not be sent back now, so who would be the best to get injectors from?
I am assuming the injectors can not be sent back now, so who would be the best to get injectors from?
Justin Short
Registered User
So your truck is N/A at this point, correct?
Compression is even, but what are the numbers? Perhaps the reason it had a turbo at one point was to make up for a worn engine? How many miles on the truck/engine?
You cracked the lines to check the injectors, the question is, can you tell a dead miss from a weak hole when you have more than one at the same time? It takes a learned ear.
The next question is, are your injectors even all one type? What are the code stamps?
Did you clean the seats/bores when you replaced the injectors? Did you get the old washer out of EVERY hole and replace them?
Buy or build a pop tester and check them all out (and recheck the injector bores), it will probably cost you less than you just paid that shop to time your truck even if you buy one. Maybe you have a couple that are popping at different pressures or not atomizing properly.
Are your GPs seated properly?
Is this your only vehicle?
You really need to check the injectors now, who knows, maybe you only need one, maybe you need 2, but if you find some that aren't up to *****, that won't mean you have to replace them all.
Just remember, your injectors and IP are a 100k service item, fix it right at this point, and you'll have years before you have to do it again, and to be honest, if you re-time the truck, you can extend that period, not indefinitely, but some until you can afford to replace them again.
If you don't fix the issue, do you think you'll be happy with the truck for 10 years like this? Probably not. This isn't even bringing up the added vibrational stress on the trans, body mounts, engine mounts, hard lines, etc. from the rough running engine.
Fixed it for ya.
Make it 5 now[/QUOTE]
This is not my only vehicle, one of many headaches..
The copper washer came out of every hole, glow plugs seem to be seated properly, 171k on the truck and if my memory recalls compression numbers were all like 350..?? All new injectors were from Pensacola and I believe they are bb codes.. They only sell 1 code now I believe. I think I got all of the questions
Compression is even, but what are the numbers? Perhaps the reason it had a turbo at one point was to make up for a worn engine? How many miles on the truck/engine?
You cracked the lines to check the injectors, the question is, can you tell a dead miss from a weak hole when you have more than one at the same time? It takes a learned ear.
The next question is, are your injectors even all one type? What are the code stamps?
Did you clean the seats/bores when you replaced the injectors? Did you get the old washer out of EVERY hole and replace them?
Buy or build a pop tester and check them all out (and recheck the injector bores), it will probably cost you less than you just paid that shop to time your truck even if you buy one. Maybe you have a couple that are popping at different pressures or not atomizing properly.
Are your GPs seated properly?
Is this your only vehicle?
You really need to check the injectors now, who knows, maybe you only need one, maybe you need 2, but if you find some that aren't up to *****, that won't mean you have to replace them all.
Just remember, your injectors and IP are a 100k service item, fix it right at this point, and you'll have years before you have to do it again, and to be honest, if you re-time the truck, you can extend that period, not indefinitely, but some until you can afford to replace them again.
If you don't fix the issue, do you think you'll be happy with the truck for 10 years like this? Probably not. This isn't even bringing up the added vibrational stress on the trans, body mounts, engine mounts, hard lines, etc. from the rough running engine.
Fixed it for ya.
Make it 5 now
[/QUOTE]This is not my only vehicle, one of many headaches..
The copper washer came out of every hole, glow plugs seem to be seated properly, 171k on the truck and if my memory recalls compression numbers were all like 350..?? All new injectors were from Pensacola and I believe they are bb codes.. They only sell 1 code now I believe. I think I got all of the questions
Justin Short
Registered User
Meaning no answer either way threads haha. I'd definitely say 5 injector points lead to a conclusion!
icanfixall
Official GMM hand model
Sadly we agree on this forum to recommend purchases of injection pumps or injectors form only a couple of sellers. Conestoga diesel in Pa is my go to shop. Mel who owns it has been part of this forum for many years. He is world famous for the Moose truck and the Moose pump and injectors. No ebay seller is as honest as he is. Then another member known as typ4 aka Russ from Oregon has a great rep for giving you more than you pay for.He knows these fuel systems and turbos too. I have purchased plenty from him over the years too. then Justin who owns the highest hp idi engine around these days. He owns R nD. He too is very well known on this forum but not a member here.He has done so much for this idi community too. If you shop ebay for the cheapest cost idi parts guess what you just got.. SCREWED is what you got. Please read the Hall of Shame forum. Those listed on that got there by cheating people. then thos people come to this forum only to find out they now need to purchase more injectors or pumps to get their engine running like it should. Sad story but this is ebay life these days. This forum makes every attempt to help but when a new member comes here AFTER they have been cheated.. Its the same old thing. Please recognise this forum has seen and answered your questions thousands of times. Not very much new comes here because many of us have seen it before.Everyone is willing to help here.
Hydro-idi
Full Access Member
You are better off installing rusty injectors found on the bottom of a ditch than using Pensacola injectors. They bead blast the exterior and call them rebuilt.
Buy a new set of delphis or stanadynes and you'll be good to go.
Personally, I prefer stamadynes over delphi injectors.
Buy a new set of delphis or stanadynes and you'll be good to go.
Personally, I prefer stamadynes over delphi injectors.
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