7.3 IDI definite exhaust leak

Discussion in '6.9L IH & 7.3L IDI Diesels' started by renjaminfrankln, Oct 12, 2018 at 9:19 PM.

  1. renjaminfrankln

    renjaminfrankln Full Access Member

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    First gen banks turbo

    The shitty exhaust shop I use did not want to F with this (I don't blame them)

    Leak at the driver's side exhaust manifold joint. And at the slip joint where the Y pipe from the exhaust manifolds joins with the pipe that goes up to the turbo (forgive my lack of proper terminology, this is my first turbo vehicle).

    Just wondering how you would approach this, also, are there any gaskets for these type of exhaust manifolds?

    My first thought is to just hit everything with PB blaster every day for a few days, then hope and pray I can get things apart without snapping bolts.

    Pics to follow in a sec
     
  2. renjaminfrankln

    renjaminfrankln Full Access Member

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    Pics

    0F401B5E-641B-4CC9-B605-1B642BA80A23.jpeg

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    8724CA10-485B-4A78-A20F-704F115A5169.jpeg
     
  3. Oledirtypearl86

    Oledirtypearl86 Full Access Member

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    Some pb blaster and a few hours .of watering then hit it with an impact gun it'll come free
     
  4. renjaminfrankln

    renjaminfrankln Full Access Member

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    I know I can get an impact on that driver's side flange and get it off. Just wondering how to seal it back. Just clean the threads up and put some new nuts on there, tighten it up?

    For the clamp, I can't get an impact up there. I may just cut that sucker off with an angle grinder.
     
    Last edited: Oct 12, 2018 at 9:45 PM
  5. riphip

    riphip Supporting Member Supporting Member

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    You can buy KROIL straight from the manufacturer at: http://www.kanolabs.com/
    They have deals all the time + get on their mailing list for better deals. Located in Nashville,TN
    Always good to have a couple of cans around the house and shop :Thumbs Up
     
  6. The_Josh_Bear

    The_Josh_Bear Full Access Member

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    Yes PB blaster, yes it's no fun. But not too bad with a creeper and an impact.

    This tip is from @Thewespaul --
    Drop the pipe, clean the mating surfaces really well and use copper RTV as a sealer. There isn't any crush sleeve/gasket/washer, it's just the way they made it(poorly, if you ask me).

    I just did this a month ago and the difference with my Factory turbo is huge. I have 3lbs of boost at 1300rpm under the right circumstances and that was NEVER possible even when I bolted my waste gate shut before. Also have much more snappy boost, up to 13 psi where the gate blows open a bit and I run out of fuel. Before that it might hit 12 eventually, some day, while towing. Now I get it empty on flat ground!

    Honestly I dont know why that stuff works...its only rated to 700*F. But it works!
     
  7. renjaminfrankln

    renjaminfrankln Full Access Member

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    Good to know. Are these 2.5" ? Is that the right size clamp I need.

    Damn I want to go out and get started on this now.. unfortunately gotta use the truck this weekend.

    By the way, here is an interesting question. Any point in hitting the nuts with PB blaster now when I have to use the truck later? Feeling like that might be counterintuitive, getting hot and burning the PB off might not help anything.
     
  8. The_Josh_Bear

    The_Josh_Bear Full Access Member

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    Actually doing the PB soak/heatcycle/soak/heat cycle thing works great! Smells bad and smokes a bit if you are just city driving but it burns off after some good heat.

    This is common practice from what I've read here and over on FTE. I personally think it is best to spray at night and run it the next day so the lower flash temp solvents have evaporated, due to their flammability.
     
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  9. Oledirtypearl86

    Oledirtypearl86 Full Access Member

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    It will help when it burns off it smells terrible but it will help and you would be surprised what you can reach with a 18 inch extension and a swivle plus when you pull the nut it cleans the threads and as for the clamp cut it off and get a new one and from the wise advice of tewespaul use copper rtv on the joints to seal it all up should only take a few hours if you can plow through with out stopping for honeydos (4 beer job) for me
     
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  10. BrassBandit

    BrassBandit Registered User

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    Kopr kote is better and can withstand temps up to about 1000 degrees Celsius. We use it to seal steam line flanges with worn mating faces.
     
  11. The_Josh_Bear

    The_Josh_Bear Full Access Member

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    Looks like you're talking about this? https://www.jetlube.com/pages/kopr-koteIND.html

    That's the industrial formulation, theres about 5 other types that are all rated at under 450*F. But man that industrial stuff says 1800*F!!
    Dunno if it would work on the gaps I had in my system...it doesnt harden at all, and would have to withhold at least 15psi. Is it like crazy thick or something?
    Cool stuff nonetheless
     

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