7.3 hard starting

[CAnders13247]

So I picked up a 2002 F250 with the 7.3 Powerjoke for $500 a week ago. Truck is in good shape. Slightly less than average rust for a Michigan truck. Everything works on it, AC, 4x4, all 4 doors(for once!). It has high miles, 395k. Has been a company vehicle since new. I know things have been replaced on it, as I work for the shop that does work on all their equipment.

Anywho..

It takes a couple minutes of cranking to get it to start. Tested Glowplugs and relay, all good. Injectors passed buzz test and Cylinder Contribution Test. Once its running and warmed up, the thing runs awesome. Plenty of power and will start right up with a flick of the key.

Right before it starts it will smoke white some, but it WONT smoke the whole time while its cranking, Has a slight miss for a few seconds, then smooths out...

HPOP res has oil in it about 1/2" from the top or so in the morning, HPOP is also building upwards of 2200PSI right when you start cranking..

I also noticed some fuel in the valley of the engine.. So from what everything points to, thus far, it seems something is leaking when it sits overnight, getting air in the fuel system.

So my question is.. What is all there to leak that would cause this? I have a decent stock of then International rubber seals for the lines, going to change those out next. But I want to know if there is anything really common or obvious for me to look at. Thanks!

 

[79jasper]

Fuel bowl oring kit.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk

 

[OLDBULL8]

Most common fuel leak place is the o'ring's on the drain valve. Overnite it can drain enough fuel out, the LP only runs for 20 seconds before engine starts.

http://www.thedieselstop.com/faq/9497faq/download/HighPressurePumpSupplementDiagnostics.pdf

 

[greenskeeper]

The electric fuel pump *should* purge most of the air from the bowl when waiting to start. A large fuel leak would be different.

Do you know when the glow plugs were last serviced? If not I personally would change them out with BERU plugs and have a known starting point for the glow plugs.

How about the relay? Do you know when it was last replaced? If not I would just upgrade to the stancor and be done with it.

Next start try jumping the two large posts on the GPR for at least 30 seconds prior to starting. See if that helps.

 

[CAnders13247]

The electric fuel pump *should* purge most of the air from the bowl when waiting to start. A large fuel leak would be different.

Do you know when the glow plugs were last serviced? If not I personally would change them out with BERU plugs and have a known starting point for the glow plugs.

How about the relay? Do you know when it was last replaced? If not I would just upgrade to the stancor and be done with it.

Next start try jumping the two large posts on the GPR for at least 30 seconds prior to starting. See if that helps.

Confident the glow plug system is in good shape. All glow plugs fall between 1 and 2 ohms. 11.2v across the GPR. Shuts off around 2 minutes after the key is turned on. That system is in good shape. Pretty sure its a fueling issue.

 

[greenskeeper]

Confident the glow plug system is in good shape. All glow plugs fall between 1 and 2 ohms. 11.2v across the GPR. Shuts off around 2 minutes after the key is turned on. That system is in good shape. Pretty sure its a fueling issue.

If your confident that's fine. Without knowing the age/condition of the GP system I'd replace the GPs and GPR to be at a known starting point going forwards. I've seen GPs that "ohm out" fine but glow very little when 12v is put to them. I've also seen GPRs that show voltage drop but very little amps because the disc is so warn there is very little contact area.

 

[CAnders13247]

They were replaced January of 2016.