BigDogIDI
Registered User
I installed a manual relay on my 92. How long should run the plugs for? I usually cycle them twice for 12 seconds at about 40 degrees. How many cycles is safe, in really cold weather.
7.3 Glow Plug Time
- Thread starter BigDogIDI
- Start date
Do you crank between the 12 second cycles? I would to introduce some fuel in the chamber before glowing them again. You are glowing them a long time, if that works for you fine. You can experiment and glow them shorter and see how it starts. Of course the shorter the better for glowplug life.
FoolhardyIDI
Full Access Member
From 30-50 degrees outside sitting overnight. 7-10 sec. 30 degrees and below 10sec and crank for 2sec if it does not start do another 5 sec on the glow plugs.
DrCharles
Full Access Member
I agree. You should not need to glow twice at 40F.
I've found that there is a quicker start if I follow the factory recommendation to give it some pedal while cranking in moderate temps and floored in cold temps. (This also allows the fast idle solenoid to set).
I've found that there is a quicker start if I follow the factory recommendation to give it some pedal while cranking in moderate temps and floored in cold temps. (This also allows the fast idle solenoid to set).
icanfixall
Official GMM hand model
Having a 92 engine why go to the manual glowplugs?? The controllers work VERY well. My guess is your glowing way too long and no need to glow twice. BTW what glow plugs are you using???
Usually 10 seconds in anything under 30* is all mine needs. If your fuel system is good it shouldn't take much. Any temps above 50 I don't usually need them at all. Try cranking between glows if it starts ok adjust from there.
sjwelds
Full Access Member
It was high teens/low 20s here today and just let it glow for whatever length of time the controller wanted. started no problem.
I am glad you guys have good service from your controllers. I got tired of messing with mine not starting because of wiring connector problems. I don't mind holding a button in for a little bit before start it.
If it breaks and I don't really need it, I tend to not put it back on or try to get it going. My fuel switching valve went bad and left me stranded, so now I just run the front tank and bypassed the valve. I never needed both tanks anyway. I am too poor to fill both tanks at once.
Rabs went bad, out of here.
Spare tire carrier rusted out, now the spare is in the bed.
Cold start switch went bad, don't need it.
I would love to get rid of those plastic headlights. Those things are terrible.
If it breaks and I don't really need it, I tend to not put it back on or try to get it going. My fuel switching valve went bad and left me stranded, so now I just run the front tank and bypassed the valve. I never needed both tanks anyway. I am too poor to fill both tanks at once.
Rabs went bad, out of here.
Spare tire carrier rusted out, now the spare is in the bed.
Cold start switch went bad, don't need it.
I would love to get rid of those plastic headlights. Those things are terrible.
tonyj54
Registered User
Thanks, guys. This one is very timely, my 6.9 had been a b...h to start since early January, even in Central Florida. I'm having to keep heater plugged in every time I go to crank it. Controller seems to have gone T/U all at once upon returning from our daughter's. Even yesterday, temps in 80's, no joy on cranking. Plugged heater in for an hour or so, hit on first try. Very strange. I'm with OP. We live virtually totally on my SS right now, so extras are at a minimum. Gonna try to put a manual button on this week, as we are going back over to daughter's during Daytona Bike Week.
