7.3 Cold Starting

[Steven Sochalski]

It's a 1990 7.3 idi. I replaced glow plugs with motorcraft beru and the connectors this summer after discovering they were non oem.

As the nights got cooler 50°, in the morning it took 5-10 seconds to start. The wait to start was about 10 seconds cold and quick hot

In the morning had been starting it, driving about 500 ft to the barn, shutting it off, feeding horses, starting it and driving it to the house and eating breakfast.

I ended up draining the batteries low that it was cranking slow. I wasn't letting it run enough to charge the batteries, just taking power from it to start the motor. I charged them back up with a battery charger and had the Batteries and alternator tested. They are good. They are also the proper amperage required.

I have the supplimental diesel book for the repair manual. The resistance for all the glow plugs are within spec. I pulled each connector and tested for continuity to the controller and it was good. The resistance to ground was a little higher than spec, so I pulled the ground and cleaned any corrosion and used some dielectric grease. I also pulled the power supply wires from the solenoid on the passenger side fender wall. I cleaned up and greased all the connections there. I pulled the battery wires and cleaned them and posts on both sides and used dielectric as well.

The final test was a test light from the controller to a ground. I turned the ignition and watched both. The wait to start was about 10 seconds, the test light was about 20. The controller is sending power to the plugs as confirmed by the 20 seconds. The relay is clicking appropriately when first turning the key.

We've had temps in the 30s now and it's taking 2 cycles of the plugs to start. Last night I plugged the block heater in. It was 30 this morning. The truck started in 1 second. This confirms that it's something in the glow plug system.

What is my next step? Is there something I'm omitting? I'm guessing it's buying a expensive controller or bypassing and doing a push button for the plugs.

 

[Cubey]

Too much starting/cranking with not enough driving to let the alternator recharge will give you low/dead batteries. You could have weak batteries too, despite what the battery tester says. I had failing batteries in my F250 and the first O'Reilly that checked them said they were good. The second one in another state said yes they are going bad. They were 2 years into 3 years free replacement but I wasn't the buyer of the batteries and didn't know the phone number on record for them, so I was SOL on the warranty. I bought a pair of Walmart EverStart Maxx 65N batteries since they cost under $100 each and seem to be pretty good.

If WTS is coming on and hear them running (there tends to be a whining sound) then it's not likely to be the controller. The solenoid went back on my F250 (7.3 style GP system) where it wouldn't click on the glow plugs until I put it with the plastic handle of a screwdriver. That was about a $25 fix.

 

[Steven Sochalski]

Too much starting/cranking with not enough driving to let the alternator recharge will give you low/dead batteries. You could have weak batteries too, despite what the battery tester says. I had failing batteries in my F250 and the first O'Reilly that checked them said they were good. The second one in another state said yes they are going bad. They were 2 years into 3 years free replacement but I wasn't the buyer of the batteries and didn't know the phone number on record for them, so I was SOL on the warranty. I bought a pair of Walmart EverStart Maxx 65N batteries since they cost under $100 each and seem to be pretty good.

If WTS is coming on and hear them running (there tends to be a whining sound) then it's not likely to be the controller. The solenoid went back on my F250 (7.3 style GP system) where it wouldn't click on the glow plugs until I put it with the plastic handle of a screwdriver. That was about a $25 fix.

I would agree, but isn't it a sign of something bad in the gp system if it starts super easy and in less than a second when plugged in, and when not having to use multiple cycles?

 

[Farmer Rock]

It sounds like the controller is going bad,and trying to take all the glow plugs with it.You shouldn't use your glow plugs until you get this fixed,because the extra burn time,will very likely burn them out.I have done the manual push buttons on both my trucks,and I haven't looked back.I have the diagram that I used,and if you would like,and will post it on here for you.

Rock

 

[Cubey]

I would agree, but isn't it a sign of something bad in the gp system if it starts super easy and in less than a second when plugged in, and when not having to use multiple cycles?

Well you also charged the batteries. If the batteries are bad after being used a few times without a boost charge, they may not be warming the plugs as well, and also not turning the starter fast enough. Just a thought.

 

[Black dawg]

plugged in can overcome many different issues......low compression...low voltage to the plugs...very poor injector atomization....battery voltage and or cranking speed.

 

[Booyah45828]

Are you depressing the throttle when starting?

Plugging it in is best, so if you can do that, do it. But it should start and run without it when cold. Someone else can help you with the correct glow plug controller operation. I installed 60g plugs in mine with a push button and haven't looked back.

I'd let the truck idle while you're feeding. That would give the alternator time to recharge the system. Not sure what alternator you have, but numerous on here have upgraded to the better 3g alternator and would recommend it.

 

[Steven Sochalski]

It sounds like the controller is going bad,and trying to take all the glow plugs with it.You shouldn't use your glow plugs until you get this fixed,because the extra burn time,will very likely burn them out.I have done the manual push buttons on both my trucks,and I haven't looked back.I have the diagram that I used,and if you would like,and will post it on here for you.

Rock

Please post it if you don't mind.

 

[Steven Sochalski]

Well you also charged the batteries. If the batteries are bad after being used a few times without a boost charge, they may not be warming the plugs as well, and also not turning the starter fast enough. Just a thought.

I forgot to mention the time frame. The Batteries being low was a few weeks ago. I've started it and driven it at least 10 times since then. If I use it to go to the barn, I now let it run during and for about 10 minutes after coming back to the house. Since then I've not had an issue with them being low. I'll definitely take it to a different auto parts store and have them tested.

 

[Steven Sochalski]

Are you depressing the throttle when starting?

Plugging it in is best, so if you can do that, do it. But it should start and run without it when cold. Someone else can help you with the correct glow plug controller operation. I installed 60g plugs in mine with a push button and haven't looked back.

I'd let the truck idle while you're feeding. That would give the alternator time to recharge the system. Not sure what alternator you have, but numerous on here have upgraded to the better 3g alternator and would recommend it.

I'm depressing it half way above freezing all the way below. I have no clue which alternator is in it. I purchased it a year ago. It doesn't match the nice 'patina' of the rest of the motor and accessories, so it's been replaced at some point.

I think I'm going to just do the push button glow plugs. It has a push button start from the po, might as well match it.

Here are some pics of the alternator. I'm definitely going to let it idle while feeding. I know it's at least working as my gaige is showing 13.7-13.8 while running, the amp output is a different story.

Also a pic of the starter, appears newer too.

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[frankenwrench]

That looks to be the stock style of alternator. I was hung up for many years just using stock style alternators, but after replacing the regulator 5 times and the alternator 7 times in just the past 4 years, I gave up and went to the 3g alternator. It was actually cheaper than the stock style alternator. And even a dummy without any form of electrical knowledge can do it. I did. some stick with those and have good luck, I never have. But if it is pushing 13.7 I'd leave the alternator alone till it does start acting up personally

 

[Eli]

My 'cold start' method:
1. Turn key to 'ON' position.
2. When 'WAIT TO START' light goes out, turn key to 'OFF' position.
3. Wait 30 seconds.
4. Turn key to 'ON' position.
5. When 'WAIT TO START' light goes out, push the throttle pedal to the floor, let of slightly, and turn key to 'START'
6. Let off the throttle pedal when it starts.
My first IDI had bad glow plugs and a weak injector pump, and ate starters until I started doing it this way when cold. Double-cycling the glow plugs put a lot more heat into it, and she started easily even when down in the 40s - I live in Houston.

Eli

 

[Farmer Rock]

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This is the diagram that I used on both my trucks,and it makes a more sense than any other diagram out there.I highlighted some things on this lower one,but posted one with out all the squiggly lines as well so you have both to look at.All you have to do is cap of the white wire(not used),then from terminal 3 on the relay,run a 10ga wire with inline fuse to one terminal on the push button,then from the other terminal on the push button to a good solid ground,then finally cut the wait to start light and cap off the section coming out of the controller (it is connected internally to the controller)and move it to terminal 3 as well,and that activates the light when the push button is used.It is really simple,should only take about 45 minutes to an hour to do.Hope this help you..


Rock

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[Steven Sochalski]

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This is the diagram that I used on both my trucks,and it makes a more sense than any other diagram out there.I highlighted some things on this lower one,but posted one with out all the squiggly lines as well so you have both to look at.All you have to do is cap of the white wire(not used),then from terminal 3 on the relay,run a 10ga wire with inline fuse to one terminal on the push button,then from the other terminal on the push button to a good solid ground,then finally cut the wait to start light and cap off the section coming out of the controller (it is connected internally to the controller)and move it to terminal 3 as well,and that activates the light when the push button is used.It is really simple,should only take about 45 minutes to an hour to do.Hope this help you..


Rock

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I cleaned up the wiring for a push button start, so it would be easy. Thank you.

 

[Steven Sochalski]

My 'cold start' method:
1. Turn key to 'ON' position.
2. When 'WAIT TO START' light goes out, turn key to 'OFF' position.
3. Wait 30 seconds.
4. Turn key to 'ON' position.
5. When 'WAIT TO START' light goes out, push the throttle pedal to the floor, let of slightly, and turn key to 'START'
6. Let off the throttle pedal when it starts.
My first IDI had bad glow plugs and a weak injector pump, and ate starters until I started doing it this way when cold. Double-cycling the glow plugs put a lot more heat into it, and she started easily even when down in the 40s - I live in Houston.

Eli

That method works ok, it still has to crank roughly 5 seconds or so to start