600rpm runaway diesel

Mishka

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So my truck wouldn't shut off after coming home from work. It's a 1991 f250 7.3 idi N/A with nearly no blow by.
I deleted the mechanical lift that died with a duralift 40222 and installed a new cdr valve from eBay 6 months ago.

First thing I did when this happened was turn duralift 40222 off and that did nothing. After that I unplugged the two plugs on injector pump and she was still idling at 600rpms. I had to suffocate the motor with shirt with trash bag inside shirt. She was not smoking when idling at 600rpms and after truck sat for 30minutes I checked dipstick which was still full which was where she was in the morning before work (I checked oil regularly since it's so old)

At first I thought cdr failed an was running off own own but after seeing the oil still full makes my friend and I think the injector pump failed to shut an was sucking diesel from the filter?

Thoughts before throwing the parts cannon at her?
 

Cubey

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The fuel shutoff solenoid on the IP sometimes gets stuck open when they fail, so unplugging it won't help.
 

Laine D

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Hey man I saw this on Facebook. So like I said on that group, you definitely were not running away on oil. There’s no way it would be idling. You simply stuck the shutoff solenoid and even when you unplugged the wire it was still stuck, that’s why it kept running. Now there was plenty of fuel still in the fuel filter for it to run off of for a good while, especially idling. That’s all that happened there. I feel like the only parts you should be looking at is either a shutoff solenoid, or just getting the pump rebuilt. I feel like whenever stuff inside the pump fails that means it either wasn’t great quality or it had a good amount of miles on it. I recommend a pump from any of these guys, CDD, R&D, and Russ Repair. I have a little bit of everybody’s stuff on mine and it runs great.
 

IDIBRONCO

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You can try starting the engine again, shutting off the key, and then tapping on the top of the IP to see if the FSS just got stuck for some reason. If it doesn't work, at least you know how to shut the engine back off again. Also, if you have a manual transmission, you can hold the brakes and let out the clutch with the transmission in gear to shut off the engine.
 

Mishka

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Yeah I'm thinking you guys are right, I Know the truck has a lot of miles on it so looks like a new ip pump is in order and I probably should replace the injectors too while I'm at it they to are probably really high mileage? If so should I go classic diesel design or wait for R&D's to come in stock for injectors?

Also would a injector pump from a factory turbo work on my N/A 7.3? I don't want it turned up as I don't want to have to worry about heat
 

frankenwrench

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An injection pump from a 7.3 turbo will work on your rig. Just maybe a touch of fuel differance. I ran one on my n a 6.9 for years. As far as getting one from cdd or rnd its which ever you prefer. Either are tried and true and great quality. I stick with cdd cause hes only 4 hrs or so away from me and have met the guy and trust him.
 

Laine D

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Yeah I'm thinking you guys are right, I Know the truck has a lot of miles on it so looks like a new ip pump is in order and I probably should replace the injectors too while I'm at it they to are probably really high mileage? If so should I go classic diesel design or wait for R&D's to come in stock for injectors?

Also would a injector pump from a factory turbo work on my N/A 7.3? I don't want it turned up as I don't want to have to worry about heat
Yeah it’ll be fine. My friend has an n/a 7.3 and we put a turbo pump on it. As long as it’s not cranked up, I don’t think there will be enough extra fuel to cause and issues
 

IDIBRONCO

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I probably should replace the injectors too while I'm at it they to are probably really high mileage?
Yes. Pumps and injectors should be replaced as a set since their internals wear at the same rate. I'm not saying that you can't run the engine with just one or the other replaced. I can fully understand replacing one and then saving up the money to replace the other. I'm **** saying that you shouldn't put 20,000 or 30,000 miles on between replacing the two.
I stick with cdd cause hes only 4 hrs or so away from me and have met the guy and trust him.
It's a 12 hour drive on the interstates for me (which I try to avoid so it takes me longer to get there) and I've met him and trust him too. It's a 22 hour drive for Chillman88 (IIRC) and he's met Wes as well. I wouldn't hesitate to buy from any of the four guys/places. I haven't bought anything from Justin, not for mistrust or dislike issues, I just try to support forum members first.
 

frankenwrench

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Yes. Pumps and injectors should be replaced as a set since their internals wear at the same rate. I'm not saying that you can't run the engine with just one or the other replaced. I can fully understand replacing one and then saving up the money to replace the other. I'm **** saying that you shouldn't put 20,000 or 30,000 miles on between replacing the two.

It's a 12 hour drive on the interstates for me (which I try to avoid so it takes me longer to get there) and I've met him and trust him too. It's a 22 hour drive for Chillman88 (IIRC) and he's met Wes as well. I wouldn't hesitate to buy from any of the four guys/places. I haven't bought anything from Justin, not for mistrust or dislike issues, I just try to support forum members first.
I wouldnt hesitate with any of them to be honest. Well one fir sure, but thats due to personal reasons. Not his product. Lol. Still would use his merch without a worry in the world.
 

Mishka

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Thanks everyone, going to be ordering IP pump and injectors from classic diesel designs.

In the meantime is there anyway I could start my truck to move it under carport and shut it off without having to suffocate the motor again? I don't like it sitting outside but can put a tarp over it if not
 

Cubey

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Thanks everyone, going to be ordering IP pump and injectors from classic diesel designs.

In the meantime is there anyway I could start my truck to move it under carport and shut it off without having to suffocate the motor again? I don't like it sitting outside but can put a tarp over it if not

If tapping the IP fuel shut off solenoid area with the wire unhooked doesn't free it up and make it stall, cut or pull loose a fuel supply hose (with your epump turned off first) to make it stall from lack of fuel that way. Just having the epump off probably won't stall it at idle since the IP has enough suction to keep it going, so you need to cut off the fuel supply manually by disconnecting the fuel supply. It might take a few minutes since it'll probably drain the fuel filter first. Taking off the fuel filter would be a faster way to stall it, if you don't want to mess with hoses and don't want to wait. It might be messier though. Basically any means of completely cutting off the fuel supply manually.
 
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IDIBRONCO

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If you have a manual transmission, you can stall it out by letting out the clutch while it's in gear and holding the brakes like I mentioned earlier.
 

Mishka

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Okay I just found this in my duralift pump and fuel filter.....this can't be good at all.

Little history, motor does not have a mechanical lift pump installed it has been removed and blocked off. The motor has very little blow by and always runs and drives perfectly, it drives as good as a new vehicle.
 

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