6.9L Glow Plug Controller Product Review!

Agnem

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Hey everyone. Just thought I would let you all know that I have obtained, and installed the new OEM replacement 6.9L glow plug controller from Accurate Diesel. See http://www.ebay.com/itm/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=220803700358&ssPageName=ADME:L:OU:US:1123

The seller advertises this unit is Made in the USA and states "This controller is an updated solid state design. The original sensors were electro-mechanical and had an extremely high failure rate. Our replacements have been re-engineered using modern electronics technology for much improved reliability. Externally the sensor will appear unchanged and will plug in perfectly with no modifications. Operating characteristics have not changed. If you need to diagnose the system after installing our controller, please keep in mind that continuity tests published for original electro-mechanical style sensors are no longer valid.
"

The Scarlett Moose had been running an OEM factory GPC that just quit working one day, fortunately failing in the "off" state. My son Graham, was going to install the typical push button system so many of us resort to, when this product was brought to my attention in another thread here on OB. Well, someone had to buy one and give it a try, so that's what I did.

Accurate Diesel shipped me this item in record time. I believe I ordered it on Wednesday and had it by Friday! The box is Accurate Diesel's own, with Made In USA proudly emblazoned on it, and I have every reason to believe that this is something that they are manufacturing, or are having manufactured for them. There was no sign of foreign involvement. The part was wrapped in pink foam, and only a small slip of paper was inside with the controller. Both the slip of paper, and a label on the controller warned not to energize the system until the GPC had been installed for 10 minutes. I have no idea why this requirement exists, but we obeyed it fully. Replacement is as simple as unplugging the old one, unscrewing it, and then with new part in hand (with a little bit of teflon tape on the threads) doing the swap before too much antifreeze could leak out. We snugged up the controller, and snapped the electrical connector back on. After waiting the prescribed 10 minutes, with an extra 5 thrown in for good measure, we turned the key. The glow plug contactor closed for 10 seconds, and the wait to start light went out, and the truck fired right up. The contactor and wait to start light cycled about 4 or 5 times and then rested. Obviously it is not possible to tell at this time if this controller is any better than an OEM one, but it IS missing one of the pins that the OEM controller would have, so clearly it is NOT an OEM controller. I'm presently satisfied, and of course will be anxious to see how it operates in different seasons, and what it's longevitiy will be. And of course, observing if one day it somehow locks up in the on postion and melts all the GP's, which is the ultimate hope that it does not.
 
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icanfixall

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Nice writeup Mel. Thanks for being the "first one" trying this. The missing pin bothers me some but... Was there actually a need for the oem pin location???:dunno Heres hopeing it works for a long time safely.:cheers:
 

The Warden

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VERY interesting that, even with it being an updated design, it's still less expensive than an OEM controller would have been. I'm very curious to see how it does long-term...thank you for being the guinea pig on this ;Sweet
 

badaceds650

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VERY interesting that, even with it being an updated design, it's still less expensive than an OEM controller would have been. I'm very curious to see how it does long-term...thank you for being the guinea pig on this ;Sweet
I'm not the dealer is like buying from the government way overpriced most of the time, and poor customer service as well
 

Dsl_Dog_Treat

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And for a fraction of the cost of the OEM controller!!!;Sweet

The 10 minute wait I suspect is to allow the controller to aclimate itself to the coolant temp.
 

Agnem

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I believe the missing pin maybe a reflection of the solid state design. Depending on what year 6.9 harness your plugging into, one year actually had a pin that told the controller the alternator was charging. It was how it could tell the engine had been started. This wouldn't need that, as I'm sure it uses a more advanced method. So far so good. It would be nice if someone else would try one. A single test case is not a very scientific result.
 

Black dawg

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It really surprises me that somebody would take enough interest in an old part like this to update it.
 

6.9poweredscout

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ok, on the truck i just got they have pushbutton gp's on it. how do i turn it back to self-cycling? and can i update the harness to accept the beru bullet tip gps? or am i better off to just swap on a whole new 7.3 controller and harness? where can i get the 8 plugs for the gp's? i had one from the junkyard, but i had to cut it up to fix a broke wire on the scout. thanks! :D
 

hce

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How do I change this controller. A crows foot is not cutting it, and I have not figured out how to get a 1-1/8" socket over a 1-1/4" dia connector on top. The turbo charger just to the right is not helping either.
 

Shadetreemechanic

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ok, on the truck i just got they have pushbutton gp's on it. how do i turn it back to self-cycling? and can i update the harness to accept the beru bullet tip gps? or am i better off to just swap on a whole new 7.3 controller and harness? where can i get the 8 plugs for the gp's? i had one from the junkyard, but i had to cut it up to fix a broke wire on the scout. thanks! :D

I spent part of this morning putting the factory glowplug system on an 85 that I bought last week.
For me it meant replacing the controller and reconnecting a red wire to the glowplug solenoid that comes from the controller. That was it.
Mine had been converted to pushbutton by removing the red signal wire from the solenoid and wiring it to a pushbutton. I left the wiring and button in place in case this new improved controller isn't.
 

Shadetreemechanic

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How do I change this controller. A crows foot is not cutting it, and I have not figured out how to get a 1-1/8" socket over a 1-1/4" dia connector on top. The turbo charger just to the right is not helping either.

I just did mine this morning with an open end wrench. I had to disconnect the return line tee back there to have enough room to turn it.
I do not, unfortunately, have a turbo in the way.
 

hce

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The turbo makes a open end wrench impossible, and it's a 4 hour project to remove 4 nuts and a band clamp for the turbo. I am thinking a 1-1/4 deep socket with 2 piece insert to adapt it down to 1-1/8.
 

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