1996 F350 intermittent crank, no start

[James R Dillard]

Alright guys need some help if you have any ideas or see something I have missed, I have a 1996 F350 5 speed CC Dually with 135000 miles, yes, you read that right. Truck runs great when it starts. It has an intermittent click and no crank issue that has me stumped. I have searched the archives and found not much luck. So far I have done the following.

1. New terminals on all battery connections, cut the old ones off and re-terminated the cables. I used the heavy duty crimp on ring terminals and new quality battery connectors.
2. New heavy duty ring terminal at the starter for the main cable.
3. Re-terminated the signal cable from the battery to the fender mounted solenoid (FMS).
4. Made a new signal cable from the FMS to the starter mounted solenoid (SMS).
5. Fender mounted solenoid is new.
6. Starter is new, SMS is also new came with starter. Old starter tested good, we even tested the new one before I took it home.
7. Jump the FMS large posts and the starter will spin the motor.
8. Pulled the small black 12v connector from key switch at the FMS clipped on a test light, grounded to bat neg, it will light up the test light 10 out of 10 times no issue when the key is turned.
9. Clamped test light to FMS to SMS signal post and it will light the test light 10 out of 10 times when the key is turned.
10. Replaced the ignition switch under the dash panel at the steering column.
11. Checked the circuit breaker/fuse in dash mounted fuse block #12 I think it was ohms checked out good.
12. It is a 5 speed so I also replaced the clutch safety switch with the test light at either signal terminal location on the FMS, the test light will light if you hold the key to start and floor the clutch pedal 10 times out of 10.

What am I missing?????
Sorry to be so long winded but wanted to be through,
Bad ground somewhere?????
Bad solenoid on the starter possibly ???????
Spoke with the parts house and they have said to bring the starter back and we would swap it again in case it is the solenoid.

I love this truck but love only goes so far........... getting real aggravated with this one.

Thanks for any help in advance.

 

[DaveBen]

Have you tested the glow plugs? Take a test light and attach the ground to the positive post of the battery and then place the test tip on each glow plug. If it lights up they are good. No light, no joy. If you replace the glow plug(s) use Motorcraft ZD-9 of Beru glow plugs only! The others are junk.

 

[James R Dillard]

Glow plugs are working fine. The motor is intermittently not turning over when the key is turned. It will spin and start fine sometimes other times not so much.

 

[79jasper]

You said you tested the fender mounted solenoid output? Not just the signal wire, but the large output post?

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

 

[James R Dillard]

79jasper I tested the black signal wire from the switch and I tested the signal wire on the second post feeding signal to the SMS. The key switch wire has 12v with the key and with the clutch safety switch on the floor and with me holding the key at start and pumping the clutch to activate the safety switch. I tested the signal wire feeding the SMS the same way. 10 out of 10 times both work perfect.

 

[79jasper]

I guess you could get some LEDs to wire in to those outputs. Then when it doesn't start, you will immediately see where it is.
Those fender mounted solenoids do fail quite a bit. Especially cheaper quality ones. Even though you can get 12v, it may not be giving the amperage needed.

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

 

[James R Dillard]

I though about using another 12v switched source and making up a new connection to test it and see if eliminating the FMS would resolve the issue.

 

[greenskeeper]

bypass the clutch safety switch

does the truck crank every time with the the switch bypassed?

If not, with the clutch safety switch still bypassed does the truck crank everytime when you jump the large posts on the fender mounted relay?