1995 OBS Powerstroke need scanner that works.

Dirtleg

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Okay so yesterday I picked up a 1995 F350 dump truck with the 7.3. Right hand cylinder bank will fire left will not.

Looks like a squirrel got in there and ate some wiring on the injector harness. So most likely once I fix that it'll run on all 8.

But that got me thinking about what I can scan a 1995 with.

It looks like Forscan lite license is unavailable due to russian sanctions currently.

So what are the options currently? Snap On not in the budget unfortunately.

Thanks for any input.
 

Dirtleg

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Update. Fixed left bank injector wires. Now running on left bank, not right. Didn't touch right bank injector wiring. Something is screwey.

Checked for grounds at harness plugs and all grounds are good. Hmm.

Sure would be nice to have a scanner for this right about now..............

Also there was 2 wires that feed out of the harness going to the left rear injectors plug that were eaten. They were not related to the injectors and had their own piece of harness cover which was empty. These were gone in such a way that I do not know where they are supposed to go. No remnants that I can see on the engine anywhere. One is for sure a ground, as I checked it. The other one was showing 50kohms to ground.

Probably need that at some point. I am just diving into these so I haven't figured out what those wires went to yet.

Have had many other diesels (5 others currently), just skipped the 7.3 PS for some reason.
 
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Dirtleg

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More update.

I removed the engine wiring harness and have gone through it completely. All is good there at this time. Rung out every connector pin and verified there are no crossed up wires in it anywhere. All wires read 0 ohms from end to end.

Checked ohms on the injectors and all 8 came in a 2.2 to 2.3, which is low, at the UVCH gasket connection points. Guess I'll need to do a little more digging there.

Things I've figured out so far.
It has had the non EBPV turbo pedestal swapped in and the EBPV valve itself is gone. This is what the unknown wires would have gone to.
Someone installed a Dieselsite Adrenalin HPOP in it. Not sure how old it is.
There is a tuner switch mounted next to the headlight switch. Not sure what it might be, or if it's even still in the truck. Haven't checked yet.
The Hydraulic system runs off a pump driven by the engine which can cycle on and off with a clutch like an AC compressor. It has it's own 6 rib belt and a pulley and tensioning system.
When it was running I hooked up Torque Pro and monitored the ICP and IPR values and they are working together properly. So that's good.

Anyway more to come as time allows.
 

Dirtleg

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Next installment in what is I am sure a highly anticipated saga.
Wiring harness back on the truck.
Ran a Buzztest using forscan and it came back with a plethora of trouble codes.
Recurring theme was there is an open on the common circuit for the passenger side injector bank.
Looked at UVCH gaskets and they are not good but should not be causing that issue.
Got new ones from GB Remanufacturing on the way. Updated to the later gasket style.

Took my IDM to a friends place and checked it on his truck. Not good. Guess I'll need to fix that too.
 

cragenj3

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The entire right bank (passenger or driver? Each manufacturer says different stuff.) I'd guess passenger is right..

Anyway, I got an obs psd a month ago and also had a mess of issues. Most notably was my IPR failing; replaced that and it'll run with only 10 psi at the fuel bowl schrader ..should be 60ish apparently, so new fuel pump on the way, even got an e pump conversion kit coming say day, don't know which one I'll install.

Anyway, here's a pin out of a 94.5 ECM/PCM/ECU; worked for my 97... bank failure hopefully is just the $50 UVCH; but I think the IDM is also divided into banks; i don't know enough about it to check if the IDM itself is bad; thought the buzz test just determines that the injectors are serviceable; basically like you can replace all its mechanical internals and seals but there's nothing that can be done if their electronic heads are fried. Buzzing doesn't mean they function, it means their electrical components function to a degree; the timing and whatnot of them can still be off since a buzz test forces it's own timing commands.

You seem to be figuring it out better than I could, but I've found it's helpful to spitball and brainstorm with someone else who has a decent understanding...like forcing an epiphany. It'd be better to just be given the answer but I haven't got that; if one bank isn't firing you do just have to go through it.

You can spend $40 on Amazon for a 5k psi liquid filled gauge and a couple an6 fittings to check that each head gets it 3500ish from the hpop..
 

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cragenj3

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Oh and the tuner.... On my 94 body 97 engine the ECM is behind the parking brake assembly; an actual tuning chip gets plugged into the visible end of it; otherwise there should be a rubber cap about 1"x2" covering the tuner port. The other end goes through the firewall and gets your big 104pin connector.
 

cragenj3

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Also; this is the Internet; a pirated FORScan version it out there.

I actually can't get any cheapo Bluetooth elm327s to even connect; so I ordered a forscan specific OBD thing with the switch on it and a USB connector and everything; comes tomorrow... So probably I'll have to "pirate" FORScan myself pretty soon.

You mentioned Russian sanctions... Is it really stealing if it's from Russia? Cmon.
 

cragenj3

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FORScan windows works fine and is free.

On their website download page, about halfway down, is Forscan for Android... It works too; I had to give Chrome permission to install apps, then it tried to block the app for being outdated but had an option to install it anyway.

However, Lite seems to require the license, which I do not have and apparently can't buy; but they offer a 2 month free trial.
 

lotzagoodstuff

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Next installment in what is I am sure a highly anticipated saga.
Wiring harness back on the truck.
Ran a Buzztest using forscan and it came back with a plethora of trouble codes.
Recurring theme was there is an open on the common circuit for the passenger side injector bank.
Looked at UVCH gaskets and they are not good but should not be causing that issue.
Got new ones from GB Remanufacturing on the way. Updated to the later gasket style.

Took my IDM to a friends place and checked it on his truck. Not good. Guess I'll need to fix that too.
You may have already updated your UVCH, but if you haven't you should strongly consider updating to the newer single pigtail versions as they are much, much better. Lots of horror stories about lower quality brand new UVCHs causing innermittent drivability issues. It's a little bit of work to wire in the newer single connector pigtails, but it's well documented, I did mine and I would never go back to the earlier pre-Superduty junk.
 

Dirtleg

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Okay got busy doing things. Some 7.3 related, (New batteries for the 93' IDI), some Dodge related, some Nissan related, Hunting, Thanksgiving, Blah Blah Blah.

At this point I have completely disassembled and inspected every inch of the engine wiring harness.
Fixed every potential bad spot in the wiring.
Changed over to the later UVCH (Single Plug) wiring at the time I was fixing the Harness.
Taped up and re-loomed the entire harness. Re-installed on engine.
Installed new UVCH gaskets on engine. Connected to Harness.
Checked wiring to each injector from IDM plug at the actual Injector Solenoid connector.
All is good.
Ran Buzz test again. Exact same results as before.
EBAY IDM on the way (Out for Delivery ATM). My current IDM is a IDM-120 from a 2001 as is the hopefully functional EBAY unit. I will be sending my current one off for repair. (Spare)
Hope the new IDM works as expected.

As for pirating Forscan. It is free on PC. I just didn't really know anything about it when I first made this thread. I have it installed on my Laptop and am using an OBDLink LX Bluetooth adapter that I have had for years. Works just fine after initial setup. I know they recommend the OBDLink MX or cable but the prices on these have doubled in the last 5 years so I figured I'd try what I already have. Got lucky.
I also used a THINKCAR 689BT scanner which is unhappy with the trucks VIN#. I think it is asking for specific OBD information that was not a thing in 95'. I might send my PCM out to get reflashed with proper OBD2 if I feel the need for it at some point.

I installed FORscan Lite on my android but it asked for a license number. When I tried to purchase one I got the denied due to Russian sanctions message.

@cragenj3 are you referring to the Demo version? It does say free. I just didn't try that one. Will try it next.
 

Dirtleg

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Update. New to me IDM came in. Ran Buzz test. All error codes gone minus an injector 7 Hi-low fault.

I know the wiring is good and I am getting low ohm readings on my injector solenoids so I am hoping it's the injector solenoid and not the IDM.

I will swap the solenoid wiring with number 5 and see if the issue follows.

That said when I tried to start the truck it was a no go. Wouldn't crank worth a damn. Batteries are suspect so I swapped in the 2 brand new Interstate group 65's from the 93 F350.
No difference. It was getting dark at that point and rained yesterday so no further inspection has happened but I need to go through the battery cables as they are surely not in the best of shape. The 93' could use new ones as well so maybe it's time to just do it all correctly, 1 time.

To be continued....
 

Dirtleg

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Buzz test was loud when all 8 buzzed together, and each injector buzzed at a similar volume to the others.
There didn't seem to be a standout loud or quiet from the injectors.

Anyway fiddled with bad battery cable connections today and after a bit of cranking it fired up.
Runs well but I believe I am going to replace all of my injector solenoids as they are all reading in the 2.3-2.5 ohms range. That is at the solenoid itself not through the UVCH gasket wiring. They also read the same through the harness at the IDM plug.

Things I learned about Forscan.

The truck hates it if you connect when it is running.
Once i did that I had to completely shut down Forscan, unplug the Bluetooth OBD reader, and restart everything with the truck in KOEO condition before I could talk to the PCM again.

But probably most people already knew that.

The good news is that it runs well. I managed to get the dumper dumping.
I even got it to move after I put 2 quarts of Mercon in it. This was a surprise as I was told it wouldn't move. OD light was flashing and there is a code but I'll have to look back at a screenshot on my laptop as I don't remember the number. Had something to do with the range selector or wiring, but the range selector was replaced literally the last thing done to the truck before I got it.
 

dsrace

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I kept an eye on Craigslist locally for an older snap on scanner. I found one with power stroke cartridge with keys for $100. Works great on my e99 and nephews 95. Couldn't get forescan to work properly on his 95.
 
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