1994 CCLB 7.3 IDI Factory Turbo E4OD transmission codes?

[Old Red Wagon]

Steve, I just got it adjusted correctly so that I’m reading 1.2 and 4.0! That wasn’t as much fun as it looks on TV!!

Test drive proved no changes. I have now replaced the VSS (speedo still bounces above about 50mph), the solenoid pack, the MLPI (neutral safety switch), and the FIPL (TPS). I am missing something (obviously), but I don’t know what. I had the codes read and they couldn’t give me the actual code numbers, but it was all of the solenoids, the coast clutch, and the FILP.

I want to say that I appreciate everyone’s time and efforts with this!!

 

[steve phillips]

1) change TECA relay in power distribution box under hood 2) check wiring harness going down to trans, they have been known to melt , I can t remember if there is a plug connector going to trans. 3) wiring to overdrive button can break or short in column, this can cause multiple problems 4) bad instrument cluster, ford had problems with these from the get, bad voltage regulator chip in panel and wire tracks melting 5) bad pcm, last to replace not first. 6) did you check connector on solenoid pack? they will melt, common problem. my money on TECA relay or wiring to trans. relay handles all power to solenoids. take power box loose and look at back where relay plugs in, to see if it is melted. 7) check connector at vss for clean and corrosion. If trans has been out harness could have been damaged during r&r. After much head scratching changed TECA relay, fixed my truck almost 10 years ago.

 

[steve phillips]

file:///C:/Users/puddl/Downloads/E4OD/E4OD%20PDF's/Troubleshoot/vss%20-%20Copy.pdf

 

[steve phillips]

file:///C:/Users/puddl/Downloads/E4OD/E4OD%20PDF's/Troubleshoot/vss%20-%20Copy.pdf

 

[Old Red Wagon]

Steve,

I can’t open the file that you shared. I bit the bullet this morning and replaced all of the relays. Nothing changed. The only things left, I think, are the computer and the harness.

I’m about to give up.

 

[steve phillips]

many people on this forum are more knowledgable than me. I will try to help as best as I can. send me a pm with your email and I will try to send to your e mail address. I am not very computer savvy. at this point you need, desperately, an obd1 scanner, they are cheap at autozone etc. there is a bulletin about od light not showing codes and glowing dim, but I can t find it. my bad about relays , I forgot to suggest you just interchange them. that's all I did. I have more info to send to you. if you don t take offense to this, anger and frustration has never fixed anything. only logical troubleshooting will fix mechanical and electrical equipment. I am ready to help in any small way I can. I don t have a known good pcm or wiring harness, or you could try them for the out and back ride.

 

[steve phillips]

just a quick thought, did you line up marks when you replace MLPS? Also the wiring harness jumps over to MLPS from solenoid connector is it secure? Mine was hanging loose , part of loom was gone I repaired and secured it. My connector to MLPS was burn t I replaced it with a newer style. Also I replace solenoid connector, but neither of these fixed randomly going into limp mode throwing multiple codes, I can t remember which. TECA relay was the final fix. I sat down with wiring diagram and decided relay was a good choice. 1 other thought PCM is behind kick panel on passenger side, check connector for corrosion. I fixed a friend truck. It started from hole drilled for new antenna , let water in. check back side of connectors for burn t wires also.

 

[Old Red Wagon]

Well, I had ordered a new connector for the solenoid pack, so I soldered it into the harness, plugged it in, disconnected the NEG on both batteries for over an hour. Took her for a test drive, and she shifts on her own now. Well, the shift isn’t pretty. It’s more like a 1-2-1-2-1-2-1-2-3. And that’s it!! No OD. And the OD light started flashing after just a shirt drive. I have to invest in an OBDI scanner.

 

[Old Red Wagon]

Come on guys!! Somebody has to know the answer to these dreaded E4OD transmissions!!

I have replaced the VSS, the MLPS, the Solenoid Pack and the connector, and the FIPL. I bought this truck BECAUSE of the mechanical attributes.

I’m about to swap the tranny for a C-6, but I’ve got too much money invested at this point!

I talked to Monster Transmissions and they offered me a stump pulling E4OD for $3000, but when I explained to them that it’s an electrical problem that would follow to the new transmission, they said that they FLASH the computer and the problem would be resolved. How do I do that??

 

[Thewespaul]

A zf5 would be a more sensible route. It could be an issue with the trans being from a bus, and the shift kit or electronics not being compatible. I have an e40d that is correct for your truck here I could make you a deal on, but I’m in Texas.

 

[Old Red Wagon]

Thewespaul,

I’d love about any option that would get my truck running right. The 5-spd would be great, but my clutch knee is shot, for the second time. And your transmission would be fine too, if Texas wasn’t so far away!!

 

[trackspeeder]

Come on guys!! Somebody has to know the answer to these dreaded E4OD transmissions!!

I have replaced the VSS, the MLPS, the Solenoid Pack and the connector, and the FIPL. I bought this truck BECAUSE of the mechanical attributes.

I’m about to swap the tranny for a C-6, but I’ve got too much money invested at this point!

I talked to Monster Transmissions and they offered me a stump pulling E4OD for $3000, but when I explained to them that it’s an electrical problem that would follow to the new transmission, they said that they FLASH the computer and the problem would be resolved. How do I do that??

The only way to reflash a TCM is to toss it in the trash. Replace it with an aftermarket unit that you can program yourself.

 

[Old Red Wagon]

Any suggestions as to which unit is better or best?