1993 IDI Diesel questions

DumpTruck

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Greetings
I am new to the forum but have off and on been reading alot.
I transplanted a Turbo IDI from a '93 F250 with an Automatic transmission into my '93 F350 Dump truck
Put a gates downpipe on it and used some 3" exhaust tube to replace that horrible intake Ford put on it. using the Big round napa filter.
(IF anyone wants that stock ATS turbo intake box complete message me and pay for shipping and it is yours)
I installed some gauges and disconnected the wastegate
Truck has good power compared to the old NA 7.3 that came out of it.
Boost will hit 11 PSI accelerating hard or pulling load up a hill. (pulled 19,985 LBs up a pretty good grade with no real issues )
EGT has the sensor screwed into the Gates downpipe POST turbo
I am seeing 550 to 600 degrees when pulling hard. The engine will build coolant temp when pulling but doesn't get too hot.
There is NO smoke . Starts at the turn of the key above freezing. Takes a few cranks and second glow plug it when colder than that.
Using the red Shell ELC for diesels
Curious if anyone here knows what the EGT max is for POST turbo sensor installation and if I should give it just a little more fuel
Thanks
Tim
PS attached a photo of the load and also the fabri cobbled intake I finish welded the tubing and painted ford blue when complete
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Clb

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The thermocouple is traditionally placed on dr. Side rear exhaust manifold..
Here it is most accurate, as I recall the post turbo #'s are like half\one third???
Search the tech forum for agnem and his turbo tech 101 stuff
 

IDIBRONCO

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I was thinking that someone on here said that you add 300* to the post turbo reading to get your "correct" (accurate) reading.
Dump Truck: since you would be at 850-900* with the probe within 8" from the head, as suggested for the most accurate reading, you still have room to play with your set up. The first thing that I would do is to have the IP timing checked. Then, after it's in time, you could turn up the fuel a little bit if you wanted to.
 

Clb

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Meter in hand when doing the fuel screw will help...
Guys run anything from 6-10 deg (claimed) and say it's perfect....
I retarded mine to 8 it got hot h2o\egt on hwy 5 in Washington...
Bumped it to ?9.5? Sweet runnings mhann (read Jamaican voice), so p!ay with it some
best thing in the world for an idi is get it hot and sweaty pulling loads and hills !
 

DumpTruck

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Based on what I am reading I am going to drill a hole and move the EGT sensor to the Drivers side manifold in the rear. THen I will figure out a way to check the timing.
I believe it might be off a little as there is a "flat spot" in the acceleration at 1800 RPM . in other words I am depressing the go pedal and the truck is accelerating right along with the pedal then at 1800 it stops accelerating while the pedal keeps moving down then will all of a sudden catch up. Not sure of the timing advance piece of the pump is sticking or something else is going on. I will likely add a fuel pressure gauge as well as I am running and electric no name pump I go from somewhere. Thanks for the input.
Tim
 

troutwest66

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Great set up. I had a stock '94 IDI Turbo. I would consider looking at adding some heat shield to your intake pipe where it crosses the top of the motor to keep the incoming air cooler. Maybe it won't make enough difference but cooler air giving a better fuel burn is always better. I second moving the EGT probe into the exhaust manifold.
 

The_Josh_Bear

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Yep 300* difference is the rule of thumb for post-turbo vs pre-turbo. So your safe max on that setup is around 850* to 900*.
Which means you have a decent amount of headroom.

What's wrong with the OEM turbo intake? Pulls cold ram air, and flows quite well actually.
Putting a BHAF under the hood sucking all that hot air isn't really an upgrade, except that you won't have to change it again for 5 years. (Ask me how I know, I have one. But mine is there because I went with charge air cooling, which cannot be done practically with the stock airbox.)

As for timing and turning up the fuel, turning up the fuel will affect timing. So crank it up 2 flats then time it.

I'm amazed you have 11psi of boost with 600*(900* nominal) on the pyro. Must be a very healthy engine with a good sealing exhaust side. Hard to do in 2021 with the ATS up-pipes.
In fact I just spent 1.5 hours today re-sealing mine!

Happy wrenching!
Joshua
 

rpdb2002

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Hi The_Josh_Bear,
I just saw that you were re-sealing your up-pipe. I have a 93 F350 7.3 with factory turbo made by Garrett. Is this considered an ATS turbo?
I was just trying to reseal the Y collector of the up-pipe into the slip fit connector going up to turbo. It just barely goes in. What did you use to seal it up?
 

DumpTruck

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So the factory turbo intake is a bit restrictive and is aluminum so transfers the heat to the intake charge quite efficiently. I made sure the pipe is raised off the engine ad will be adding a reverse scoop on the hood to get some cooler air in there. I was pleasantly surprised with 11 PSI . I attribute it to the down pipe and likely a good seal between manifolds as I don't think this has ever been apart. 158000 original miles. New pump at 80000 and very well maintained since new.
 

The_Josh_Bear

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Hi The_Josh_Bear,
I just saw that you were re-sealing your up-pipe. I have a 93 F350 7.3 with factory turbo made by Garrett. Is this considered an ATS turbo?
I was just trying to reseal the Y collector of the up-pipe into the slip fit connector going up to turbo. It just barely goes in. What did you use to seal it up?
Here's more info on sealing:
Post in thread 'So what did you do with your truck today?' https://www.oilburners.net/threads/so-what-did-you-do-with-your-truck-today.60076/post-1087313

The cement I used was Meeko's Gasket Cement and Stove Sealer. Says not for outdoor use and there is an outdoor version so you might want to try that instead.

I got to drive her twice now since the re-seal and she's working good!
 

rpdb2002

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Thanks The_Josh_Bear,
I have used a similar cement on my wood stoves, not my truck. I cleaned up the slip fit up-pipe connection, wire wheel on die grinder, plenty of brake clean.
I used the Permatex Ultra Copper. Supposed to work up to 700 f intermittent. With EGT going up to around 900 f, I have a stinking suspicion, that I will have to re-do this connector.
I am curious to hear how it sealed up? I have got to find a two post lift, because doing this on a creeper and jack stands sucks!
 

The_Josh_Bear

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Thanks The_Josh_Bear,
I have used a similar cement on my wood stoves, not my truck. I cleaned up the slip fit up-pipe connection, wire wheel on die grinder, plenty of brake clean.
I used the Permatex Ultra Copper. Supposed to work up to 700 f intermittent. With EGT going up to around 900 f, I have a stinking suspicion, that I will have to re-do this connector.
I am curious to hear how it sealed up? I have got to find a two post lift, because doing this on a creeper and jack stands sucks!
I did the copper RTV the first time and it works great until it gets too hot and blows out. I don't know what too hot is, my EGTs run up to 1050*, but like I said the connections at the crossover pipe were still sealed, so apparently it's very durable stuff.
If the slip joint wasn't so loose I couldn't do it from below easily either. Used to be a much tighter fit years ago. But since it wasn't too bad to just push it back in I figure the next step will be getting a proper upgraded pipe ala @IDIoit or make my own, which sounds like a real chore since I don't have a spare block to fab it up on.
 
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