1993 Ford f250 xl 7.3 idi stalling after throttle let off

southern oil

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Pulled top of injection pump, looked brand new considering the age and abuse the truck has taken. Metering valve moved freely, not gummed or stopped up. I have done the Diesel Kleen/Seafoam treatments, new filters, etc. Even filled a new fuel filter with it and ran it for a few and then let sit. The truck runs like a tractor, no problems, except it all of sudden decided to start dying when you suddenly let off throttle. It did sit up for awhile, and I half-ass thought the problem would work itself out. All opinions are welcome and thank you in advance for your help.

(I have read extensively on this forum and many other sites...I am hoping that someone can suggest something that i am missing.)
 

79jasper

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Correct. I'm sure there's a sticky, but I can no longer navigate the forum sections from Tapatalk after the site hosting changed.
Basically take a new fuel filter, fill it with atf, start the engine and let it run til you hear a change in idle. Maybe 30 seconds or so. Then shut it off and let it sit overnight. Next morning drive it like you stole it.

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southern oil

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will letting the idle run around 950 - 1000 be a problem in the long run? I know it isn't correct, and not a good thing....but what can it hurt?
 

e30bradley

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You probably need a new pump. Don't get it from napa. I bought one from napa and after 11 months it was going this so I got it warranteed now that one is doing it after less than a year. I just want my money back.
 

Macrobb

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IF everything else fails and it looks like you need a new IP, there's a 'work around' I've come up with for getting by.
It's not perfect, but it worked for me:
1. Find the 'guide stud' at the back of the IP. This is a hex bolt on the rear of the IP, right above the injector lines.
It should have a plastic cap on it, or a wire or something else to keep you from messing with it.
2. At the base of the guide stud, once you get the cap off, is a nut. Loosen the nut about 1/2 turn.
3. Tighten the guide stud in while maintaining the position of the nut(otherwise the nut will jam the stud from moving.
You'll want the guide stud in just about all the way.
4. Re-tighten the nut on the guide stud to keep it from moving.


Effectively, what this does is change the governor response a bit - it makes it more 'sensitive' as far as I can tell, and it's worked on a couple of old IPs to keep them from dying when you let off the throttle.
It may still droop a little below idle before recovering, but that's a lot better than dying.
 

Hydro-idi

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Robb,
Any decent injection shop should be able to rebuild your pump for a couple hundred dollars.

It'll cost more than that if you want more than a cheap re-seal. Plan to spend around ~$500-600 for a complete rebuilt & calibrated injection pump if you are thinking about getting one.
 

Macrobb

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It'll cost more than that if you want more than a cheap re-seal. Plan to spend around ~$500-600 for a complete rebuilt & calibrated injection pump if you are thinking about getting one.
Yup, easily.
And a re-seal job isn't hard to do, actually. I've done it on the pump in question, looking for stuck parts etc... nothing. Everything looked fine, and it acted just the same after the re-seal(though it had less leaks).
 

RAPATC

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Just got off the phone with the local Oreillys. I dont know all of the specifics on your truck but got a quote for a Borg Warner injection pump with a three year no pro-rate warranty 607.99 plus a 198 dollar core charge. If hydro is correct on what it cost to rebuild one then you might as well purchase one with a decent warranty for a few bucks more. I think that I will swing by my loval injection shop tomorrow and ask them what they charge for a rebuild.
 

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