1990 F-250 HD 7.3 IDI Turbo Replaced Radiator and did not take pics nor label!…

Rocktraingreen

Registered User
Joined
Jan 12, 2025
Posts
7
Reaction score
2
Location
Battle ground washington
Where do the ATF lines that connect to the bottom of radiator go, if they are not bypassed? How do i tell if there is an after market transmission cooler. Here is a picture of how i reconnected lines.
 

Attachments

  • Resized_20251113_211858.jpeg
    Resized_20251113_211858.jpeg
    442.6 KB · Views: 14

yARIC008

Drives really slow
Joined
Jan 12, 2005
Posts
1,703
Reaction score
110
Location
Orlando, FL
There may be a designated inlet and outlet on the radiator but I don't know that it matters much. You can look in front of your condenser and see if you see another cooler and then just trace the lines. From what I've seen they're in series with the main radiator. Should be pretty easy to see how that works.
 

Clb

Another old truck
Supporting Member
Joined
Mar 1, 2013
Posts
6,532
Reaction score
2,957
Location
nannyfornia
Look at the fsm, note the location of the 2 lines on the tranny, check where it goes (usually 1 is further forward than the other one) but it probably doesn't matter, ferd would design it for cheapest amount of materials.
 
Last edited:

DirtyWood

Full Access Member
Joined
Apr 20, 2025
Posts
232
Reaction score
142
Location
Earth
The ATF cooler in the bottom of the radiator doesn't care which way you hook up the lines--no designated 'In' or 'Out' connections. Aux coolers ought to be the same but it's worth double checking to be certain.
 

JPM4

Registered User
Joined
Jul 18, 2021
Posts
27
Reaction score
17
Location
North Alabama
Not sure if this helps, but here's a pic of when I replaced my lines and trans cooler.

I ended up replacing the screw type clamps with correct sized spring clamps. And also plugged the radiator's trans/coolant line (the really old looking hose) since that line is no longer available. Replaced the upper hoses to delete the "T" adapter on the topside to match.

You must be registered for see images attach
 

JPM4

Registered User
Joined
Jul 18, 2021
Posts
27
Reaction score
17
Location
North Alabama
Below are better updated pics showing the routing and the trans cooler. You can see the plug where I blocked off the unused line and left the old line hanging/not really attached.

You must be registered for see images attach


You must be registered for see images attach
 

kbenz

Full Access Member
Joined
Jul 22, 2020
Posts
311
Reaction score
140
Location
kannapolis, NC
Not sure if this helps, but here's a pic of when I replaced my lines and trans cooler.

I ended up replacing the screw type clamps with correct sized spring clamps.

I think I'd stick with the screw type clamps.. I want them tight
 

JPM4

Registered User
Joined
Jul 18, 2021
Posts
27
Reaction score
17
Location
North Alabama
I went with the spring types after reading up on why the OEMs have went to them. Thermal expansion over the long term made me lean toward the spring type. They don't seem tight enough compared to the screw type, but all OEMs use them, be it for reliability, ease of install and/or cost. They expand and contract with temp and don't degrade the hose as much as the screw type. That being said, screw types are good for years. And if a screw type leaks, just give it a turn and you're probably good for another several years... Either clamp will probably outlast the hose anyway.

I did have trouble finding spring types of good quality tool steel. Most of the spring types from the local box stores seem to be cheap steel that don't spring very well. Finally found decent ones at clipsandfasteners.com. Screw type clamps are everywhere and fit everything.
 
Top