1989 7.3 idi vacuum system parts

[Uncle Yeti]

So I am trying to figure out what all I need to do to my vacuum system to make it better and run its best, I have a can on the left fender well. I see all the lines and they are hooked up but the system seems off. Can the can get jacked up and if so where can I find a new one?

 

[Big Bart]

The vacuum pumps on our trucks don’t seem to go much more than 20,000-30,000 miles before wearing out.

So start by looking for vacuum leaks, ones big enough to make a difference are the brake booster, vacuum tee, the line between the pump and vacuum tee, vacuum tee to brake booster hose, and the line to the cruise control if you have it. If all seems well then get a reading off the vacuum pump, you are looking for at least 18hg. If less time for a new pump. Warning use a power steering pulley puller or you will damage the pulley and have to buy a new one one. The auto parts stores rent them if you do not have one.

If the reason you think you have a issue is your brakes are not working great, adjust the rear drum brakes then re-test drive. If still hard to push the pedal and hard to stop check the vacuum produced by the pump and go from there.

Here is a tech article that may help you out.

How to test and replace a IDI vacuum pump with a grove pulley.

Recently while towing a loaded a trailer I came off the freeway off-ramp to find out my power assist brakes were not working. Fortunately the light was green, there was no one in front of me and I could just take a left at the end of the on-ramp and slow down to a stop with the 40% braking I...

www.oilburners.net

 

[DaveBen]

Since your truck is 35 years old, you probably have cracked vacuum hoses or they have become loose and do NOT hold vacuum. Start here and see what you can find. Does the vacuum system hold a vacuum, at the can, for any time? Does the vacuum can leak?

 

[Cubey]

Get one of these. Cheap and works for both vacuum and low pressure fuel:

Fuel Pump and Vacuum Tester

Amazing deals on this Fuel Pump /Vacuum Tester at Harbor Freight. Quality tools & low prices.

www.harborfreight.com

 

[NeverHave-I-Ether]

Apparently the new vacuum pumps don't last from what I've heard. Bad enough to be replaced 4/5 times within a year or two. I saw one guy on FB rig an electric vacuum pump because he was tired of the one from the parts store.

Never-Have-I-Ether

 

[Cubey]

Apparently the new vacuum pumps don't last from what I've heard. Bad enough to be replaced 4/5 times within a year or two. I saw one guy on FB rig an electric vacuum pump because he was tired of the one from the parts store.

Never-Have-I-Ether

I bought one for my F250 in 2017. I moved it to my RV in 2019 because the pump has a lifetime warranty. It has probably 25-30K on it by now, still going strong. It's a Dorman from O'Reilly.

 

[IDIBRONCO]

Most of the electric vacuum pumps don't make a high enough volume of vacuum to work the power brakes. If you have done a hydroboost swap, then you should be fine with an electric pump. Yes the can does often go bad from rust, dents, or just plain old age. I'm not sure if there's a new direct replacement. The purpose of the can is for vacuum "storage". To give you a "back up" amount of vacuum. There is most likely a solution. You need to start researching the hot rod, street rod, etc. markets. There has to be a way for Pro Street style cars to drive on the street with their huge lift, low vacuum producing cams and still use power brakes. Another vacuum leak possibility is the cruise control cancel switch. I unhooked the vacuum line off of the back of that and plugged it. That gained me 1" of vacuum on my vacuum gauge. This type of situation is why I highly recommend installing a permanently mounted vacuum gauge. It will let you keep an eye on your vacuum system.

 

[snicklas]

I do know of an electric vacuum pump that may work (I have not tried it on an IDI, so that is why I am saying may)

It is from a newer Ford Pickup, and should be able to be sourced from a junkyard....

It is on 2011 and 2012 F-150's with the 3.5 EcoBoost V6.... and only with this specific engine. The V8's and the 3.7 V6 do not.

With the EB being a turbocharged engine, it doesn't really make vacuum either. On only these 2 model years (no other EB 4 or 6 cyl in any other application have this pump, on those and on the 13+ F-150, they have an engine driven pump that is located on the rear of the head), Ford used an electric vacuum pump to run the power brakes, and the "lockouts" (search IWE - Integrated Wheel End) on the 4x4 trucks. I own one of these trucks (see sig) and this pump does indeed run the brakes, I know this for certain,as I just had to replace my factory original at ~175,000 miles. The original pump failed due to the original factory vacuum routing, as it also pulled from the intake and would pull moisture from the CAC and cause the pump to fail, there was a TSB to replace the pump and eliminate the draw from the intake). It is mounted behind and just below the drivers side headlight, inside the inner fender liner. It is self contained, and has a mount to place it on a cross member under there, 2 wires (I'm pretty sure it is +12v and ground as the pump itself is mounted in rubber mounts) and 1 vacuum line that runs up and splits off up by the brake booster. They are still available brand new..... but.... they are a bit salty..... It works well, and I can tell when it quit..... It does also pull some juice, as it is run off a 40 amp fuse

I can't find a picture of the pump online or at least that I can link to (and my truck is put back together) but here is a link to the "recall kit" that you can buy from Rock Auto.

More Information for MOTORCRAFT BRPV30

I would say if someone wanted to experiment, I would get one cheep from a junkyard.... It may be an option. This does have a lot more oomph than the SuperDuty ones that only run the HVAC and the ESOF Hubs.... since it does run the vacuum power brakes.....

 

[Old Goat]

I googled the Motorcraft part# and found this interesting video.

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Goat.

 

[TNBrett]

GM 1781022

It’s the vacuum pump off of a corvette with the supercharged LS7. $140 on RockAuto.

 

[snicklas]

I googled the Motorcraft part# and found this interesting video.

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Goat.

That is the issue I was talking about. One thing is, that video is from 2014, 7 years ago. Ford has since issued a TSB to repair them for free, up to 10 years or 150,000 miles. I believe he may have a newer video from after the TSB was issued. I'm no 100% sure the reasoning, but in the factory routing, the vacuum lines ran to the brake booster, the solenoid for the IWE's on the 4x4's, to a port on up by the manifold for a couple of places on top of the engine, and there is a port in the engine air intake side, between the air filter and the cold side of the turbos... (maybe to get a little vacuum for an emergency backup???). This port in the air intake would allow this pump to draw a tiny bit moisture that may be in the piping due to the heat cycling. This would, over time, slowly damage the metal parts in the pump and eventually seize. That kit I posted also has a new vacuum harness, as they call it, the eliminates that draw from the air intake, and provided a plug for the port in the air intake.

But remember, mine went 11 years and 175,000 miles that way. This has been a northern truck all it's life so seen high humidity, and temperature extremes. I'd say the new one should last much longer.

Here is the newer video for the recall on this pump.

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[arizhntr]

I've replaced the vacuum pump once on my '93, at around 300K miles. I replaced the brake booster for the first time a couple of month's ago. Used to be a daily driver but now I'm lucky to put 6K a year on it.

 

[typ4]

If you drain the oil out of the bearing cavity and replace with a good synthetic and dont overtighten the belt they last a long time.