15 second crank before it starts

Discussion in '6.9L IH & 7.3L IDI Diesels' started by tompands, Nov 7, 2018.

  1. tompands

    tompands Registered User

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    Looking for some more advise on this beast. I had some electrical issues , got them all straight ( I think), new beru plus, new controller, plugs seam to be working fine. I wait for light to go out and crank. Takes 10-15 seconds before it starts. After it starts, shut it off, it will fire on the first second. The longer I let it sit, the longer I have to crank it. Almost like the fuel is bleeding back. What should i check ?? ALL advise is welcome. I love this forum.
     
  2. riphip

    riphip Supporting Member Supporting Member

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    Air intrusion somewhere in the lines. Once this is all out, it should 'bump' start.
     
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  3. tompands

    tompands Registered User

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    I also just put all new return lines and o rings and there are no leaks anywhere. This truck doesnt have a stock fuel tank, I guess because it's a wrecker and theres no room for it underneath. The fuel tank sits on top of the body and is silver in the avatar to the left.
     
  4. Thewespaul

    Thewespaul Supporting Vendor Supporting Member

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    I’m assuming you still have the stock fuel pump? There’s a diaphragm in them that’s supposed to act as a check valve, but hardly ever does. Try adding a diesel rated one way check valve in the soft line between the frame and engine.
     
  5. rsaltaresjr

    rsaltaresjr Registered User

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    How fast does the starter spin the engine? If it’s not fast you won’t get a quick start with a cold engine. Good batteries a good starter and good cables are critical. Not just the hot cables, the negative cables have to be in good condition along with the connections at the batteries and the block. Clean all the connections. Remove the starter and clean the mating surface of the starter and the mounting plate. If you really want to make a big increase in the cranking speed ditch the Mitsubishi starter for the high torque denso style found on the 7.3 psd. Good luck.
     
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  6. tompands

    tompands Registered User

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    All that stuff is brand new and it does spin very quickly. Still have to crank at least 10 seconds. it's got to be fuel. once it starts , it will start first lick every time. let it sit a 1/2 hour , it take 5 second to start, let it sit 5 hours . it takes 10 seconds to start
     
  7. Cubey

    Cubey Full Access Member

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    Could be glow plugs too possibly?
     
  8. BigRedTank

    BigRedTank Registered User

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    Nope. Air intrusion all the way. I had that similar problem with my '86 F350 and after changing o-rings, copper rings when injectors sit on, fuel lines and cleaning out the injectors, still had a long crank issue. White smoke equals not enough fuel while cranking. Black smoke means not enough heat generated to burn the fuel (black smoke is unburned fuel). Theres air intrusion somewhere and you have to trace that crap down. These old IDIs r known for that problem. Your fuel is leaking back to the tank, one drop at a time. Also, check the fuel pump on the passengers side of the block. The diaphragm is also known to go bad if never replaced. If no leaks and pump is good, then may be bad news. Injection pump might need a rebuild. Does your truck smoke when u finally get it started and after running it for at least 10 minutes?
     
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  9. tompands

    tompands Registered User

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    Glow plugs are brand new BERU's , new controller also.
     
  10. tompands

    tompands Registered User

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    I'm leaning with you, fuel is bleeding back, going to check soon, smokes white for 30 seconds then clears up
     
  11. Ethan Smith

    Ethan Smith Full Access Member

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    honestly bud just pull the whole block and go through the entire fuel system. It’s be quicker and more painless than tinkering with it for months and never finding the problem
     
  12. robw

    robw Registered User

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    ^ I don't agree that pulling the block is the way to go.

    Fuel pump check valve, air intrusion on return lines (possible return line TO the tank), etc.

    You can "play" with the T's on your injectors and they "shouldn't" leak, if it does there probably is your issue.

    Since you did all new tees and hose, I suspect check valve at the fuel pump, or return line to the tank.

    Good luck!
     
  13. tompands

    tompands Registered User

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    I agree with you. Tee's dont leak. I'm looking at check valve right now. Going to check all hoses
     
  14. robw

    robw Registered User

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    I wasn't exceptionally clear, "play" meaning while the engine is running move them side to side, etc. to see if they burble up... that works for me to see if one is bad, if they seep diesel when I do that, I pull them, replace the tee or o rings and reinstall... try again.

    That's always worked for me.

    But yeah, good luck! Hope it's something simple like a check valve, although the return line to the tank isn't a huge deal.
     

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