10.25 complete axle replacement

[towcat]

But it's been heat treated. Lol 

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when it's heat treated it's even better.
all you need to do is cut a deep line into the race 180* apart and find a sharp chisel and hit it with a 5pound sledge.
boom. done.

 

[riotwarrior]

No way I could have made it today, rash of blown hoses for some reason.
Little truck, air tools and knowledge.
I second the 20 dollar HF grinder and a pack of skinny wheels.

Best tool is the one between ears

 

[Shawn MacAnanny]

I'm talking about the actual steel cutting wheels, not the cheap red/brown cermic ones that come in a 100 pack. If you havent used these before i think you should try them. I just used 1/4 of one to grind out my turbo intake hat ID for the intercooler pip, which i know is aluminum, but can be a pain to grind.

http://www.lowes.com/ProductDisplay...gId=10051&cmRelshp=req&rel=nofollow&cId=PDIO1

If you can get to it with a grinder and cut off wheel then by all means do that, i was thinking the race was insude of the hub portion and a grinder wouldnt fit inside.

 

[Oelmensch]

Houston, we have a problem.

Grabbed the good driver's side hub nut assembly at PnP yesterday, $4.97 including yard access fee. The counter guy confirmed their online price of $30 for the class V hitch on the same truck is accurate. Of course the wheel-stands that hold the truck off the ground is holding the truck up by the hitch, but that is a riddle to be solved another day.

No worries about yesterday, typ4; I'll go the HF chisel/cutoff route. If nothing else I get more tools for later shenanigans.

Assuming I can source the missing bearing components locally I should be able to test drive this weekend... though I'll want to open/inspect the front bearings as well before doing so just in case and at minimum repack those. Hopefully more updates tonight/tomorrow.


++UPDATE++

Got the air chisel and cutoff wheel at Harbor Freight, turns out thoroughly cooked bearings do not stand up to a cutting wheel much at all. Or a Dremel wheel, which only takes 2-3 to cut a decent groove in a bearing with, likely only 1-2 if you don't set the dremel down and snap at least one in half on the concrete with each bearing...

More or less went like you'd expect: cut, chisel, repeat until the bearing cracked (chisel was significantly wider than the groove and tapered (when I started). Once the bearing cracked, hammer a flat-blade into the crack parallel to the axle (avoid contact with the axle) to spread the bearing to a slightly larger OD, work it off the axle. Worked awesome on the rear bearing. Front bearing not so much...

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I'll take Spun Bearing for $1000, Alex.
Outer bearing has clearly done some hot laps and galled the crap out of the seating surface before it came apart. The inner bearing was clearly hot and dry, but during my initial attempt to split it the chisel made it rotate on an errant hammer swing, so no 'adhesion' like the outer bearing. I had to get creative with a small puller and a VW axle nut whacker to pull the outer bearing because the rear half was partially fused with the axle.

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So unless I'm mistaken, I need to come up with a DRW Axle tube/housing. Fortunately, the local pick n pull has one, but it means I'm back in the ring & pinion game (theirs still has a cover on it and I'm hesitant to trust that setup for a 1200 mile round trip) and would be swapping everything over from my current unit as theirs is completely bare on the passenger side and I yanked the axle out of the driver side just a couple days ago.

Anyone see reason to believe otherwise?

 

[laserjock]

Wow. That's pretty gnarly. I think you are looking for a housing. Best bet is probably to go source a complete axle with the right ratio and swap it all. Fresh u bolts while you're at it.

 

[Oelmensch]

Short term I might dremel/sand down the garbage on the spindle section so I can get new bearings on and reassemble the hub just so I can move the truck out of the center of the driveway while I sort out my options/solution.

I could go super-shade-tree and JB weld the seating/mounting surface for the outer bearing as a temporary fix, but I'd still want to pull that axle and do it right before the road trip in July and would be in constant fear of even short trips in town (paranoid engineer here).

 

[typ4]

Oh no, another engineer. Jk. Do enough sanding, stoning, filing to get the bearing to slip on. If it's not sloppy I can guarantee you years of service, unless you load it like I do. You should buy idiots rear end. I can bring it back w me.

 

[riotwarrior]

Clean it up toss new bearings on... n runner like u stole it...plan for replacement asap.

 

[Oelmensch]

Oh no, another engineer. Jk.

HAHA, we're everywhere. Don't worry, I haven't been an engineer long enough to know everything yet.

Do enough sanding, stoning, filing to get the bearing to slip on. If it's not sloppy I can guarantee you years of service, unless you load it like I do.

Well that is encouraging to hear, but I would still be skeptical about the longevity since the intended primary use is family vacation pulling a (smallish) trailer when the time comes. The Reno trip in July will likely involve coming back with 1000-1500lbs in the bed depending on what Dad still has there to come back

You should buy idiots rear end. I can bring it back w me.

That is looking increasingly like my best option. What is the timeline for that looking like so I can figure out if I can stack enough cash between now and then to get things paid for? Also, transport cost? Beer/fuel/nickles?

Pick n Pull has an axle tube as well that I'll look over tomorrow morning and see if it is as hammered as I imagine it to be or if that is a viable option. Either way I assume things like bearings, etc. are still potentially required, and maybe some ring/pinion shenanigans as well.

I'll get out there early tomorrow before the sky cracks and dumps rain here for the next couple days.

Clean it up toss new bearings on... n runner like u stole it...plan for replacement asap.

Haha, well short term maybe...

 

[Oelmensch]

Towcat, Idioit says you were the help in connecting his available DRW with my need for one, huge thanks!

I really appreciate your help and am glad to have found a solid, experienced bunch of folks on these forums who like to help each other out. When I have the chance to pay it forward or contribute, I'm happy to do so.

 

[compressionignitionrules]

I have one in my parts truck I'd let go for $100 if you pulled it yourself haha. Limited slip too

opposite coasts, vastly opposite prices.
I've left a few of these in trucks I've taken for scrap. when the trucks are rotted away and not even in the upull yards, parts go down in value fast. $400 parts trucks come with lots of good parts but they aren't worth anything if you already have spares and nobody is looking.

 

[IDIoit]

Without pulling hubs and inspecting further, I give it a clean bill of health.
Good fluid. No water.
The pinion seems like it was set a little far back,
But knowing ford it's still in spec.
No leakage @ pinion.
It is an open rearend

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i make magic happen! see how i beat gravity?

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[typ4]

Oohhhh shiny gears.

 

[Oelmensch]

Looks like it meets my high standards. Maybe give the tires/hubs a good shake when its coming off for giggles and I think it looks great.

 

[IDIoit]

at 129k, i would be replacing them for S&G, if you plan on keeping it for a long time..
then you know you have new bearings, and youre good to go.

i will give you the brake lines, hyd& mechanical.
no shocks no sway bar, no rims... but a complete axle.