not sure on the springs if they will work or not. I think they do. are you just doing the rear axle? your wheels will not match. also I have heard that the stock vacuum assist brakes will feel soft with the rear disc brakes. Most people swap to hydroboost to fix this issue. I believe it is also a little tricky to get the e brake to work properly. just take some finagling with cables to get it to pull properly.
Yea I'm just doing the rear axle for now I don't have the money for the front. The driveshaft blew and took the yoke on the axle out with it so I figured time to upgrade. Yea for now I'll have to deal with the different bolt pattern and tire size. The truck is only 2wd so I don't know how much having different size tires front and rear will effect it. It'll be 33in in the rear and 31.5 up front. I believe I should be able to replace the master cylinder with a bigger bore and it should fix the squishy pedal
Do you have the 08 axle? A 00-04 can just redrill the hubs and run e-van rotors. As for the 05-10 axle it has a bit wider track width over the 00-04 that is slightly wider than orginal. In turn could run get away with covershion spacers on the front to true the wheels. For ether the the spring perch is only slightly wider and pepole seem to get away with just prying to the the spring on. As for the master, your going to want to remove proportional valve at a minimum. The f-super's master got a through port adaptor along with the valve move to rear axle as in a load level one instead. The f-super's master is only direct bolt on the hydro booster and unsure if can be made to fit a vac booster, it has larger piston ment for 4 wheel disk. I would start with out the proportional valve and if you have ether front or rear locking up too easy, get a adjustable one for that end then.
I already have the 08 axle. I just finished removing the old axle so the new to me axle will be going in tomarrow. After taking some measurements the axle will indeed bolt to the original leaf springs. It looks like I'm going to have to cut off the left shock mount reposition it and weld it back on. The main thing I need to figure out now is the brake lines. I'm not going to pay 175$ for the converstion lines im sure there's a fitting out there to go from the obs tee on the axle to the 08 axle brake lines.
Well, so far so good. The axle went right in, bolted right up to the original leaf springs and didn't have to pry them out at all. The perches were the same size. I will have to get longer u bolts as the perch on the new axle is a bit taller than the original. The u bolts only need to be like 1/2in longer but 1in would be better. Haven't figured out if I need to shorten or lengthen the driveshaft yet as I don't have the flange yoke.
I'm pretty sure the newer superdutys had 1/4in brake lines from the master to the rear hose. You might want to double check this. I think the idea of the larger line was because of the rear disc brakes requiring more fluid and the distance it needed to run.
To anyone who completed the swap did you have to shorten the driveshaft at all. My axle has the flange style yoke. It seems like it'll bolt up but the driveshaft is pushed in the slip yoke all the way. The yoke on the driveshaft is busted so if I need to shorten it that would be good to know now before I take it to a driveshaft shop.
The yoke on my old axle is destroyed. When I go to the driveshaft shop I'm going to have them put the 1410 yoke on instead of the original 1350 on the driveshaft side. About where in the travel of the slip yoke be when connected to the axle/ about how much should the driveshaft be cut.