i appreciate it. i'd love to get any YT vids you used but I 'm not sure I have the proper tools for this job so not sure if i should try this one. i'm pretty savvy with my truck but need a torque wrench and potentially a bearing puller right?
yeah when you put it like that it makes more sense, also the ribbed looking cover over the rear diff case that the u joint is connecting into can spin freely with my fingers spinning it. Is that normal or showing that its loose?
so after driving about 25 miles with newly added differential oil i checked my truck and its dripping from the actual u joint? i figured it would come out of the seal to the right into the diff case. i'm not exactly sure how to proceed do I still need to replace the pinion seal or is this a...
Finally got under my truck and took a better look and went to add new gear oil assuming my rear diff case was bone dry. I got into adding 1 liter of oil and as soon as i started #2 bottle it started leaking out of the access hole. So 2 things, i'll drive around and see if any new oil slings out...
Sorry new to the forum experience and I need to remember my threads can help too. Ill be better about coming back with the results and success of any issues I bring up here
all good i set notifications on all my threads just incase i can answer any suggestions or questions. I ended up replacing my positive battery cable/harness and my truck cranks like new. So I think all along I just had deep corrosion in my positive cables and it was giving me poor power...
a lot of new terms for me to digest all at once, ill look into this and check the bearings before throwing it all back together. i want to make sure my repairs last me decades down the road. so ill take all advice
Found this information regarding specs for my axle, so I can dial in the preload. Just so i'm understanding this correctly, preload is when i have the axle on jacks the preload is the force i should turn the pinion nut (20-35lbs) and then when truck is lowered onto ground with full weight i go...
there is no side to side or up and down play whatsoever, and yeah ill need to dial in the preload before I conquer this. i have the new seal ordered so i'll be doing it this weekend.
i've seen a couple vids on replacing on a different axle (8.8) but have yet to see one on the 10.25 ford axle i...
Noticed a bit of fluid in my driveway after running an errand today. Not sure where to even begin diagnosing. Anyone have any idea why my undercarriage is coated in oil spray? Bad seal from my driveshaft to rear axle diff? Pictures below. My muffler has spots where there is dark liquid dripping...
any of these cheaper blankets caught fire? I read a lot of reivews on amazon of ppl burning them up and that terrifies me but wondering if our engine bays don't get as hot due to size?
hey man just letting you know i finally solved my air intrusion/fuel leak problem! everything seems to be sealed up now and the truck drives with no issues, going to drive it about 15 miles tomorrw for the true test but took the neighborhood stroll with ease.
spent the last week, chasing fuel leaks and air intrusions after our coldest winter, locale SC we had some below 10 degree days and my truck wasn't being used so I think some things started to crack, truck had only been in texas and warm climates prior.
replaced FSV as mine was full of diesel...
funny you mentioned not being braided. this is my first time ever doing fuel line work so i got bamboozled, but all that 1/4” i installed is soaked and seeping diesel lol so i’m going to pick up the right sizes and rightbfuel line. guy ripped me off when i asked for 5’ of 1/4 fuel line hose...
i bought the specified kit for my model of 1992 ford which was this,
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=1830728&cc=1126662&pt=11222&jsn=962
then i installed 1/4" when i replaced my FSV but that is only about 12" of total fuel hose to connect the FSV to the hard lines. then i replaced...
so i bought a return line kit and they were all 1/4” in the kit for my truck so the idiot i am just went ahead and replaced other supply and return lines with 1/4” fuel hose when i found out supply was 3/8” and return was 5/16”, i am wondering if that small mistake in hose size could cause fuel...
yeah i went scouring for the new spot and i think this is what my issue is, going to throw a new fuel line hose on it tomorrow, currently have diesel kleen sitting in my injection pump just to make sure its not a sticky injector causing some fuel starvation. will test the pump for PSI
this issue is nearly identical to mine i'm having right now. i've posted about it recently but found your reasoning and wanted to see if you knew anything else because i JUST replaced my fuel filter 2 weeks ago and my truck sits and idles wonderfully but i drove it and it died within 1000ft...
do you have any photos of your engine bay, we have similar engines/turbo and I want to upgrade my turbo ...pipes? i dont know what to call them but i see in this photo that you have a really good set up thanks
Update: I think by solving a bunch of other issues I created a new air intrusion somewhere on the top end.
Replaced:
- FSV and rubber/plastic hosing connecting to it and the metal fuel lines w hose clamps
- All injector return lines/o-rings
- return line that goes from back of engine block on...
if this water in fuel sensor cable is off or broken, can air get into the filter housing? my schrader valve only pulses fuel it does not give me a 100% stream of fuel but my truck runs very well sitting still, had it stall on me after driving for 1-3mins after finally getting it running again...
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