Correct me if I'm wrong. But isn't the only benefit of a 10 over a 8 the addition of low and low-low. Seems that a SAE2 8 speed would be easier to come across than a 10.
You can also steel the ring, pinion, and posi carrier out of a 10.50 and install it in your 10.25 housing.
That way you don't have to fuss with swapping out the master cylinder or any potential fabrication.
Had a buddy that was stationed in Alaska. On his gas chevy the engine pan, tranny pan, and coolant all had heaters on them wired into a single plug and ran on a 10ga cord. I can't remember what wattage/amperage it all supposedly added up to but my understanding is it had to be on the special...
My cold start system is intact, I just 'set the choke' so to speak. One smooth motion to the floor and back off, while the glow plugs burn to let the high idle solenoid catch. I have it set for about 900rpm
I know, another starter thread.
I recently replaced the Mitsubishi style starter on our 94 IDIT with the DB denso offset style starter and I have to say it is a massive improvement, think cranks so fast that it doesn't take much more than a split second to light off (at least down to 20F...
Mines a 94 IDIT crew cad LWB with E4OD 4.10's and 32.5's I run 50/50 diesel atf on filter changes and a monthly bottle of diesel extreme. 16-18 on highway running 70mph about 2000rpm. With the banks down pipe you can really feel the power band between 1800 and 2400 rpm so I usually run in that...
When you run without a thermostat your temp gauge isn't telling a full story.
The unregulated coolant rushing threw the block isn't in contact with the coolant jacket long enough to effectively draw the heat out of the metal so even though you see lower coolant temperatures often times the...
The bypass 'delete' does make good sense for a all out performance application and I do believe it has been proven in the gasser V8 world to be effective for such. I however disagree with a total diversion to the radiator for something that gets driven on the road like a normal vehicle would be...
Do you have a steam line for your turbo?
Totally different animal but I had a GM 6.5 service truck turned up on fuel and boost packing 14,000lbs around for 350,000 miles. On long pulls I'd get gas pockets in the head that would cause the Tstat to close up and REALLY get things cooking.
After I...
I'm running a 4 inch straight pipe kit for a 7.3 PSD with the banks downpipe in place of the PSD down pipe. 2 and a half hours to install, 4 inches is a little big. Buuuut, it was cheaper than 3 1/2 at the time cookoo
Sounds great though! Really breathes! :Thumbs Up
Putting twins in a 80's f600 shouldn't be to hard, you've got allot more room to work with than on an f350. And if you get the cooling stack from f800 that had a Cummins the intercooler and radiator are plenty big to handle 300+ hp
I'll second the redhead box's. I've put dozens on customer trucks with nothing but perfect results.
Then ofcourse when I get my own it fails in a week :rotflmao.
But the warranty was no questions asked and the one in now feels great with 50,000 of 'normal' truck stuff.
Both options are going to be $$$
The allison will need the international sae2 or 3 flywheel housing with matching adapter flywheel (not flexplate). A big external cooler (usually water/oil cooler). A means to down size the driveshaft. Probably need a body lift and some firewall massaging, a...
Almost sounds like a valve lifter going dry. If you sit at idle for a long time does that effect the knock? How's your oil pressure? Level? Temp?
Does it do it when it's cold or only after a good warming up?
Got any weird smoke out the tailpipe?
I've thought of doing this swap as well but with a 3000-4000 series sense they're easier to find the SAE 2 bellhousing that can typically still be found for our idi's.
We have 10 trucks running the 3500's behind 8.3 Cummins (325 horse tune) that typically operate at 35 to 45 thousand pounds...
I'll second the "napa chassis" line of napa parts. For what it's worth when the shop I work at started using them nearly exclusively, we almost never had anything come back for warranty work and it stays tight if greased.
And they come with a lifetime warranty
Yes I am referring to the space between the sensor and the pickups on the gear. They can be pretty sensitive to how close they need to be to work properly. So much so that even getting an extra quarter turn on them can help this problem, or even the difference between a hot and cold motor can...
The only 'good' wood I can easily get is juniper, outside of that we got pine, pine, and other pine.
I'm only about 4 hours from there, over in La Pine. Should have plenty of wood for this year though, Fremont national forests opened up there wood cutting areas for 12 cords without permits...
went out wood cutting. Got about 1 1/4 cord of lodgepole pine (only dam thing that grows around here) once the truck squats down to the overloads it rides pretty well. :Thumbs Up
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