Swampsdiesel. Go look at their built motor hoodies and you’ll get an idea of what it takes.
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I’m using a denso starter from the 7.3 with the dt360. The thing spins amazingly fast. Not as fast as the 6.7 starters but fast enough! Carlson stauffer adaptor with a bts is where the moneys at.
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So... remind me again what did you all do? What was put in and button up as I read no new parts and such? That racking sound could be your sprag - it does make that noise till it grenades your transmission. 1999 4r100 and all.
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Maybe in one of these threads I saved - you’ll find out yourself if you use them
7.3 intakes threads
http://www.powerstrokenation.com/forums/14-7-3l-power-stroke-aftermarket-performance/546569-air-intake.html#/topics/546569?page=1...
6637 is the best one. Don’t let anyone tell you and difference. A member here dynoed countless of times and 6637 came out on top. Forgot the post/thread.
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If you were to use it all the time, leave it as is and let it trickle charge. If you use it occasionally like me on one of my dump trailers, run the power line to the back. I did nothing special and certainly no upgraded alternator.
Just one 1/0 12v power back to the bumper with them quick...
I’d restore it. Just as a fun medically relaxing resto. It will cost three to five times more vs buying a used better shape truck but to me what’s money worth to ya vs time enjoying yourself knowing all the nuts and bolts. Then when it comes to selling it, you’ll get 1/4 of if not trying to give...
Don’t sweat it. Connect a shorter hose to it and let it hang on the side or do nothing IF YOU PLAN TO NEVER ALLOW your transmission to puke. When it does, it comes from the orifice.
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I would not have a problem reusing that gasket. Except if someone put rtv on it, it probably leaked once before.
I’d say you’re safe for a new tc, filter and fluids. Remember what I said about the VB. Highly recommend you drop the money for a good one.
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Take it off the pump. Shake the sob and see if the rattle continues.
If it rattles, it’s fubar. Time for a new tc. Now elevate and secure your transmission accordingly, drop the pAn. Any big chunky metal parts in the pan?
-if yes, remove the transmission cooler, order a 6.0 or a trucool 40k...
TPS and IVS, both are found under there. Which one is defective - who knows!! Besides, they aren’t the same components each year. Do a proper scan.
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Mixed what up?
.84 is stock - good low/top end
1.0 this is what I would get as stated above b/c it’s a compromise btwn the two with good egt, good low and top end
1.+ you lose low end b/c you simply don’t have enough ponies for this - super slow spool up. Full race car then sure or street/hot...
1.0 is fine. 1.+ no low end for your baby swamps.
Kcturbo / dieselsite to clean it up good.
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Was just going to mention the az idm. Even when you ohm out the solenoids and some look chitty, it’s not definitely that it’s bad. 3.2-4.4 is good. Had a guy ohm some out and he had 7-8 on most cylinders but come to find out the ipr wasn’t tight :/
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I forgot the part where you said 200k+...
Go into valley and
rebuild that turbo (+ ww2 :) )
Delete pedestal
Hpop lines
Fuel bowl reseal
Hpop reseal
Then you should be good till the injectors get weak or when you need valve gaskets.
Drive it till you get more weird chit bugging you...
Change out the oem cps.
Check out the icp - change that too. Probably has oil in the harness.
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Had me lol. Cps, ipr, and a scanner is all I carry - anything else, sob getting towed. Never had a break down so i don’t know. Then again, I replace chit that don’t need replacing on one of my DD that’s always ready to go cross country if need be.
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Lol I like the combo too. Those 75 ford 100 - I can’t find one without it being chewed out! I’d love to have one!
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