the balance of my tranny fund would result in me pulling the tranny out of my other truck. I have a third transmission that was in my original truck that had a weak reverse.
What are the odds that it could be the two three shift valve? I see that's in the main body. Just asking questions I'm still going to start with the accumulator body.
Now I have a 2-3 shift code as well. Also noticed my is light flashing. So today I noticed when cold it was fine. As it warmed up I got a longer 2-3 shift until it didn't want to shift into 3rd unless almost resumes and then let off. Then it would grab 3rd bit never 4th. I'm going to the pan...
Thank you for the reply. That is the assembly behind the valve body correct. I took the truck out again yesterday and could only get it to mess up in reverse once. Shifted fine in forward. I had the scanner on it looking at temps, shift solenoids, and commanded gears. All looked good and no...
So i bought an 01 7.3, and have now experienced in the above freezing temps that after i drive my truck 5 miles i tend to lose 3/4 and reverse. I noticed it a few weeks ago and thought it was low fluid so i stopped and checked, bright red and full. I couldn't back up unless i have it a lot more...
Probably should have started here instead of asking about another tranny. My transmission slips in reverse only when you get on it or try to back up a hill with a load. Somebody pointed me towards the pressure boost valve for reverse stating that if my clutches were shot I wouldn't have first...
I hear the fuel pump running but I am not getting fuel to the engine. Brand new fuel filters and the one on top of the engine is still dry. I assume the one on the frame is too
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So I removed the jumper and still had no tach. So I ohmed it and got 4.5 million ohms engine off and 2 million ohms running. That seems wrong
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Before I do that, I called US shift to ask them about the input requirements on their controller for the tach. It is set up from the factory for a digital signal IE square wave, but there is a jumper that can be removed behind the cover for the magnetic sensor that are idis use
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Found the wire buried underneath the main harness. Had to pull the battery tray and air filter to find it. Just got done cranking her dead the first time It don't take long to kill those batteries
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I grounded the one wire and sent the other one to the controller however it still does not read anything. Not sure if the sensors any good or if the controller needs to see a square wave instead of a sine wave
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I think you are right since I don't have any cables going to my driver side battery other than the cable going from the left battery to the right battery
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