That's how mine are done. Pics are in the link at bottom of post #4 above.
I've abused it a little, but not to the point of the front bumper being on the ground with the rear tires in the air (yat).
Which front bumper do you have? The one on my 94 7.3 IDI T has cutouts big enough to fit 2" receivers through with ~ 1/2" to spare
https://www.oilburners.net/threads/so-what-did-you-do-with-your-truck-today.60076/post-1012065
The leak I struggled to locate was
AF from a barely leaking radiator being flung into the engine by the fan. Not until the leak became greater did I finally see droplets jumping from the fan to the block.
Plastic tanks cost me a motor when it split right across from the return / hot hose connection. Pumped all the coolant out very quickly. Daughter was driving and by the time she realized there was a problem and stopped, the truck had severely overheated. Got everything patched back together and...
For some reason I'm under the impression if doing the 1/2 NPT plug it is supposed to be brass. That's what I did anyway. I'm sure I read it somewhere or I would not have thought of it. Also ensure any thread sealant is rated for the application and keep it back a couple threads from the...
The radiator shop claimed a recore would be as good as the original. The original lasted 25 years.
$500+ a little / 25 years = very good deal IMO
They, by all appearances and performance, did an awesome job.
Had my OEM recored about 2 years ago for a little north of $500. You're never going to get as good of a replacement as that OEM recore for the same money assuming the shop does quality work.
When it appeared my fan was flinging something was the time I found out how far gone my radiator was. Couldn't actually see the bad area of the radiator until I pulled it, also could not see any other place the AF was getting out.
Neither picture shows it well, but here's what a little shimming can do to a correct a sagging bumper
See the drop on driver's side above? After shimming below.
Drooping on the side? Do some shimming between the upper mount and the bumper at the mounting bolt(s) nearer the center of the truck. Doesn't take much.
Mine was totally shot. Was just north of $500 to have it recored . The shop pointed out the tanks & trans preheat tanks (automatic trans) on the replacement are much smaller. He was confident I'd get 25 more years out of his recore. That should be long enough ;)
A/C finally done and it is COLD! It's been so wet / humid / cool / busy here this spring it's been tough to get everything aligned to pull a vacuum and get all the moisture out of the system to put in a charge. Low to mid 80s temps in the forecast, it's ready just in time.
I need to post a correction, the 94 factory tutbo air conditioning manifold / hose IS NOT the same as the 92-94 non-aspirated. The correct hose part # is pictuted below
I would agree. Figured this out while searching for an air conditioning hose / manifold. FTR, the 94 IDI factory turbo use the 92-93 non-aspiated / non turbo engine code "C" hoses. The 94 hoses appear tp be identical except for the connection for the high pressure switch at the compresser...
I'd like to hear some discussion on 7 PSI vs. 13 PSI. Cooling system pressure is dual purpose. It prevents boiling but also fights cavitation. I can't find anything that says if higher pressures are better at reducing cavitation. The shop that recored mine says they always (not just diesels...
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