Thank you.
Near as I can tell, there is a difference in the '95 and up starter noses.
And it looks like those are the same as the 5.9L cummins, which is why it wouldn't engage on my '91.
Maybe someone can correct me if I am wrong.
conflicting opinions.
tried a spare cummins, but it never engaged the flywheel.
bolt pattern is same.
nose is different, but looks like the proper gear extension (didn't measure it, already had the ford starter apart)
pics on the web of the gear reduction starters for 7.3L look identical to the...
As a guess, "A" is your stator, and "D" is your field.
Connect a voltmeter to "A" - it should show some small AC voltage (if there is still some residual in the rotor).
Next, connect a wire from "D" to a 12v tail lamp and +12V. The alternator should have DC output.
If the booster is the same, then it is an easy swap.
Just remove the clip holding the rod to the pedal, and slide the rod off it.
then unbolt the master cylinder and let it hang,
Remove nuts holding the booster on and take it off.
Then reverse the procedure. :)
There are a few. I passed at least 2 with texas plates on my last trip to La.
I am in Conroe (40 mi. N of Houston).
I also have about 5 acres of parking, if you need a spot.
I drove E250's for 20 years, towing anything and everything.
If it will move it, generally it will stop it.
Just ease into it, and leave as much room as possible.
I would not be nervous about a tow bar/pickup.
Trailer with brakes would be better.
Edited to add: most of the time, I had a...
Make sure you rough it up somehow. 60-grit sandpaper or coarse wire brush.
And make sure it is CLEAN.
J-B will work very well, as long as there is no movement (twisting, flexing).
Otherwise, use fiberglass with a mat.
When I got my '91, the switch did not work correctly.
After overhauling the FSV (this was before I found this forum), it was the same.
Found the problem in the dash switch - it was completely worn out. Replaced
it with a DPDT toggle switch and it has been doing fine ever since.
As an...
gandolf is completely correct. Add a tee on the port where the sender is located
and read pressure at that point. The only important reading is what the IP is
getting as working pressure.
I also have reservations about this. Everything I have with 4:10 or better gearing
will not get over 12 MPG unloaded. Gasoline or diesel. At any speed.
All of the above is correct. I did not go into detail, because it did not sound like that
was what you are asking. I would add that, IMHO, the dryer needs to be replaced on
any system that has been opened to the atmosphere. Which includes most older
systems with the inevitable leaks. And...
I know where my oil comes from. :)
I doubt I would ever use waste from a service station or auto parts store.
The better ones will have different storage tanks for the oil and the brake fluid/antifreeze.
But if I did, there are ways to separate out the crap. But it takes a while to
let it...
Clutches are simple. +12v to the wire. Should engage fully.
And the 134a kits are simple. But if it has been unpressurised for very long,
it will have condensation in the system. A flush will get rid of a lot of it, but
vacuum is really the only way. And a new dryer. Conversion is easy...
Don't know if I would ever get into WVO or biodiesel. Both seem like a lot of trouble. :)
I use WMO, because it is a set-and-forget process. Simpler. Just needs time.
That's called W85 (15% RUG / 85% WMO).
And you are fine with 2 micron filtering in this application, IMHO. No centrifuge necessary.
Ditto for my older tractors and equipment.
(I DO centrifuge the WMO for the dodge - it's a bit more picky).
Nowhere near $1000. More like $150, if you have...
Sounds pretty much like my environment.
Invest in the step. Your body will thank you.
Until then, try to park with a curb on your side. :)
And the overdrive, whatever the means, will help. Best fueling will be at 2200-2500 RPM.
The C6 does not have a lock-up converter, which would make a...
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