I used what i had on hand. Silicone spray made by Blaster. If it happens again now i know what to look for. Probably able to get at it with a coat hanger
Update... pulled the seat out, got the door panel out and there's a small rod that attaches to the door latch mechanism when you push in on the outside door knob. It would stick down and not return. Got everything cleaned up a lubricated good and everything works great now. Hoping to find some...
I've been spraying with with everything i can think of with no luck. Going to pull the seat out today and try to pull the door panel out as far as i can to see if i can get my hands in there. I cant remove the door panel completely because there's a screw on the top front that you can only get...
I can't unlock my drivers side door. The actuator only lifts the rod about half way up. Key will not unlock door, inside handle does not unlock it either. With the window down i was able to grab the rod with needlenose plyers but cannot lift it and farther. Has anybody had this happen and have...
When you installed your moose pump did you unbolt the pump from the drive gear cover or did you remove the drive gear cover from the motor ? If you removed the cover your gears or not timed right. Mine ran surprisingly well for being 180 out. Just hard to start and smoke like crazy.
Does anyone have the specs for a 6.9 head. Minimum head thickness , intake and exhaust recession. I'm looking at a set of rebuilt heads on craigslist and i want to make sure they are correct. I have the specs for a 7.3 but not sure if they are the same.
Good to know about the Permatex Right Stuff. I'll give that a try. I'm sure once i figure out whats causing the high crankcase pressure the seal will stay in place. I may have one of those air filter restriction gauges off a ATS turbo in my shop.
Its got the Banks version of a K&N filter on it. I did clean and re oil it but who knows how restrictive it is. I also replaced the CDR with another used one i had. I'll take the air cleaner off completely and see what happens.( I wont drive it like that , just rev it up in the driveway )
It was a old balancer i had that i modified not the new one. When the engine was rebuilt the balancer had a speedy sleeve installed because of wear. I was just trying to duplicate that scenario.
I thought about that too, thats why i modified a old balancer i had. Crank nose looks fine, not getting any oil on the front side of the balancer only behind it. Im going to put a indicator on the crank and check for runout there.
It has a brand new balancer. I also modified a old balancer by sleeving it to duplicate the size of one with a speedy sleeve (.025 larger) to give the seal a little more bite.
It did not consume oil before the leak. after that i have no idea if it was using oil. I'm not seeing any smoke so i doubt its the rings. I'm suspecting something with the heads. Still planning on doing a leakdown test before i tear into it. First 2 seals were SKF brand, then i tried Fel-Pro...
That was my thought too. Its a factory cdr on the banks sidewinder. I did a compression test. 400 was the lowest,480 highest. Going to do a leakdown test this weekend. I would think a lot of other places should be leaking also with high crankcase pressure.
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