IIRC, the test harness for the 3G is N-07 with the machines autozone uses.
What kind of "resettable fuse" are you using and can you get a picture? I was using a breaker and if may have been the reason for killing 2 alternators in a many weeks.
You do have the green wire on the harness...
It's a matter of getting my wife's Ranger up and rubbing again so I can use our car. Then collecting the last few things I need for the job and accessibility to my grandparents "barn" at that point. If the ground is wet, not only would I dig giant ruts in their back yard, I'd have to wait until...
Glad you stumbled across this and experimented. I'd like to see this as a sticky honestly. Would work WAY better than tensioning the belt with a cresent wrench on the alternator.
The drive gears can dish over time in the center where the driven gear meshes if there's enough resistance. This is why Bruiser's speedo hasn't worked in years and neither has my grandparents '98 F150 speedo.
Pulled the CII PS pump off or old Bronco project for the IDI. Got a wild hair today and decided to pull the now discontinued Cardone Saginaw conversion pump off Bruiser for the IDI instead. Turns out the high pressure port fits he factory high pressure hose, so the lower mileage CII went on...
I picked up one of those surplus Tech-N-Time meters (basically the same as the Kent Moore meters). Haven't been able to really test it yet since the tube for the magnetic probe on my timing cover is wobbly again.
Either one is fine by me, lol. Better than my shady Jasper reman. I'll have to check when I'm out there next, but it looked like the base of that oil pressure sensor extension was 1/4" NPT vs the N/A's 1/8", but it is setup for v-belts.
Biggest thing is the current heads not dropping a valve...
Already on it. Got 910's to go in. I've got the valley pan already, just need 6.9 head gaskets, new head bolts and valve stem seals. I'm planning to load it with new valves as well and check for guide wear and flatness. I'll have to dig out that bag of o-rings I got from you. Should I soak your...
Seemed to charge well at 14.4V+ at idle and 14.5-14.8V max on the highway on my trip yesterday. Went to see @Nick382 and he hooked me up with an IDIT (thanks again!). Truck only dropped voltage a bit after dropping the engine off at my old shop, but it kicked back up soon after. Both the factory...
Genuinely curious how much that's costing you. They told me $2k to do just the driver's outer floor, inner rocker, cab and bushing support and replace all 4 bushings...with bringing them the patch panels and the bushings.
I'm having this as well, but not VC gaskets (just replaced, old showed no signs of leaking). No oil on the flywheel, but a lot on the starter and some on the crossover pipe, but nothing at the back of the valley pan or around the drain. I'm wondering if mine is the pressure sensor extension...
I said to hell with it and pulled the alternator to throw it on the tester while I was at autozone. Ended up pulling the plastic connector off that stator wire. Alternator failed the test.
The manager that was at that store when I worked there didn't know/never informed us about this, but the...
Seemed like everything was fine. About a mile down the road the voltage dropped from 14.4V to about 14V. A mile later it was back to 14.4V. After leaving the off ramp in town, it dropped back off to battery power only. Sitting in the Autozone parking lot now and even verified that there is 12.6V...
My EGT's actually get lower at higher altitudes (N/A IDI), but my timing is at approximately 10*. As I've found, the reason for the lowered EGT's in my situation is due to ignition occurring a little later (lower air density, probably igniting closer to where is like to have the timing set).
Al, that's just the thing. The GP controller was connected yesterday when it was charging at 14.4V at idle (even warm idle).
It seems intermittent, but that white wire was the only thing I could find that was loose. Nothing is rubbing or pulled out of a connector or anything. Since the exciter...
Gotchya, so just standard relay wiring there, just without the constant positive, the controller just keeps trying to actuate the relay, hence the rapid clicking.
IIRC, the only thing connected to the strip of metal on mine is the GP harnesses (at the bottom end, top end on the other large...
I disconnected what I thought was power to the GP controller and got the clicking with the key on. 2 larger yellow wires on the rear most large stud, yes?
I dislike mobile wiring with the way it's wrapped and routed. I've been putting all the wiring I've installed in loom with maybe some...
Does anyone have a small white wire on the left side of the GP relay? I wanted to disconnect the controller as to not draw power when testing for 12V at the alternator exciter wire (pulled the harness to probe it). Took the yellow power wires of f and got rapid clicking with ignition on, so I...
I'm really curious to see if I'm getting power to the exciter wire. Might be an intermittent thing that would cause me to have to trace all through the truck. Pulling out my red Haynes manual now to locate where it connects on the other end.
...And it looks like it indeed goes to the charge...
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