Napa lists two different variable orifice tubes, one for 95-105* ambient and one for >105* ambient, one looks red and the other looks black. See them Here. Make sure you get in the duct work and clean the evaporator as well, they are mostly gunked up after this many years. In our '91 I used the...
Another item that really helps the a/c system in the converted trucks is a heater core isolation valve that blocks coolant flow to the heater core when you don't want it there. You can built one yourself with some fittings and ball valves or get the ford one that is vacuum controlled. Being...
Pictures of the setup would be a place to start. Likely the turbo is or is derived from a standard turbo offering from back in the day so getting a seal and bearing kit isn't likely too difficult once the turbo is identified. If you can get a picture of the nameplate on the turbo center section...
If you are adding studs, I'm pretty sure the engine has to come out. I think there's not enough room in the back corners to get the head set down or the studs put in after the heads are sitting in place. You might be able to stick the studs in the head and hold them there flush with the deck...
If you want to tackle quieting it down some, add some mass barrier to the inner door structure and the back of the door panel. That usually helps a lot with noise reduction after the seals are replaced and rattles are eliminated.
For your dash bezel, you can still get new ones from ford dealers but their pretty pricey. Recently the aftermarket is catching on and there is a bezel for gas trucks out there now but not for diesel yet. You can take the gas one and cut that panel out and remount your warning panel in the...
The Parallel flow condenser is the one used in all the F-series trucks from the switch to R134 (~1994) until the '99 superduty was introduced. Problems you may run into but may not with a 1993. If you have a serpentine belt system, I believe you have common hose assembly that runs from the...
Take your old clutch and either add fluid as discussed earlier or lock it, whichever is easier for you. Put it back on and see if you can hear it now. If it makes a difference in your temps then you know you got another bad one. If not you can put money into a radiator or thermostat instead.
Sticky's at the top of the forum page. Valuable OBS PSD info, Tips and Tricks. Last post, download the PDF and search for Thermostat. It's broken out by engine serial number.
Might also be in the sticky about part numbers.
Here:
https://www.oilburners.net/posts/1051670/
Here is the Diagnostic Manual for the '94 IDI. It's not completely helpful without the rest of the ford manual set but the way to diagnose is basically the same for all the IDI engines. See if there's something in here that helps.
The 7.3 did not, the 6.0s did. They have a different piping location on one side and the core is a bit thinner which some folks have thought would be helpful in retrofitting to our trucks requiring less trimming of the grill and support but I'm not sure if anyone has figured out how to make the...
If adjusting your FIPL doesn't get you where you want and your TCC isn't locking up before OD then you could try adding a manual lock up circuit for it. Then at least you are direct coupled minimizing inefficiencies. Just a switch and an led indicator that manually applies power to the TCC when...
You might be surprised to see just how many part diagrams and part numbers are listed on dealers sites even if they are NLA. It's usually a quick easy place to start at least and if it happens to be available this place is almost always the cheapest in the nation for parts prices and usually...
Ask and ye shall receive. Probably can't do that every time there's an ask but I was curious how I would go about getting everything extracted and pkgd up and yours was a good excuse to try. It took over 2hrs to extract and combine that PCED from the E-manual I've got. Very clunky old interface...
We have them in both of our 610741-2 &-4 axles which are considered 97-1/2 to '98. Both of those are wrecking yard pulls for our F250s
I don't remember them in our '79 F350, and I don't remember ever digging that deep into the '92 F350 we had so I can't confirm any other sightings other than...
The parts blow up shows that part number being described as
#90 — (note#2) Seal – Outer Tube
and the parts diagram shows it being installed on the inboard side of the knuckle. Your picture is of the outer stub dust seal and it's number is 37311 or 50381 as they went later in the series/bom.
For some reason the formatting that spaces the torque values away from the descriptions isn't posting so you'll have to know that the first group of hyphenated numbers after the desc is the Nm value and then the Lb-Ft are listed.
2 grunts and a fart. That is universally better than a bunch of uga duggas.
For serious folks; from the manual
SPECIFICATIONS
Torque Specifications, F-150, F-250 4x4 And Bronco
Description...
They weren't used on all D60 axles but Outer Tube seals were used on D60 axles with BOM numbers of 610432 610445 610610 610741 610313 610371
Those boms correspond with years starting at '88-1/2 up to '95, stopping for '95-'96-1/2, then using them again for '96-1/2-'98.
Seal – Outer Tube Spicer...
I've had Isspro boost and pyro in our '91 and '93 for going on 20yrs now, still work great and are basically an identical match to the factory gauges. The autometer pyro my '97 came with crapped out about 3 yrs ago and I've switched those gauges to Isspro as well now.
The pyro we chose is an...
With that many miles I'd start with checking the clock spring and steering wheel buttons. Someone on here recently had a similar problem where the buttons turned out to be the issue. Otherwise as you said the cruise on these trucks is all electronic in the PCM. Sensor inputs are basically the...
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