Bearings looked fine. I was honestly impressed with how good everything looked. One of those times where you wonder why the hell the truck ended up at a Dismantler/junkyard.
The motor had all kinds of extra fuel related stuff on it though. Like an extra fuel filter, weird routing on the return...
I just went with a VR full set off rock auto. Figured I might as well go with tried and true, I’ll probably pick up a CDD set for the old motor, since it’ll be the hobby motor. Thinking I’ll throw it in an old Highboy or something. Let me know how they hold up.
Maybe you’re right, although I was going to have it out on a stand regardless once they delivered it and planned on tearing it apart to see if it needed anything. Might as well know what I’m working with before I put it in the truck. And it had less than 150k on it. Pulled everything apart and...
any of you ever use the CDD head gaskets? I’m about to order a set but am having trouble choosing a brand. I saw CDD has their extra thick gaskets with more coolant ports, I like the idea but am curious if anyone’s used them and what their results were.
Another update, I was able to find a 87 6.9 long block out of a local auto-dismantler, 2k delivered to my yard (that hurt the bank account and made my wife have a panic attack) guaranteed to run with a 30 day warranty. Once it gets delivered, I’ll yank the heads, inspect THOSE pistons...
Yeah I figured that the piston had a bad pin or rod bearing and that’s why the piston was rotatable/at an angle. Are you guys thinking the cylinder wall is torn up or something to that effect?
Is what it is. This is my first tear down and I’ve done worse things in my life. Learning a lot and now I’ve got an excuse to put money into it I guess.
Is it possible to replace the rods and pistons while leaving the crank in the motor? Just so that it stays timed.
Just for an update:
Managed to pull the passenger head with the motor in the truck. As I’m tearing down, I realized the motor was in fact a 6.9, not 7.3. 7/16ths head bolts. Not sad about it, slightly irritated with the previous owner as he told me it was a 7.3 though. Whatever, not the end of...
I didn’t know if a possible stuck lifter could’ve caused the rod to bend rather than a piston hitting the valve. That’s why I was asking if it was worth it, considering my current time constraints.
Yes dude, but as I stated, if I had time, I wouldn’t even be here asking about removal of the...
If I had all the time in the world I’d yank the motor and do a full rebuild no problem. I’m curious if the hammered lifter could’ve caused that rod to bend? If it’s a possibility, it might be worth the risk on my end to put in new rods and lifters, see how the truck runs, god forbid the problem...
Pulling the heads requires removal of that air box on the fire wall, I’d imagine? And can you pull them out without a hoist/by hand? I’m not a weakling and am not afraid of a little hard work, but I don’t want to kill my back neither lol. Also might invest in a borescope to take a look before...
Yes bent push rod. You can see it in one of the pictures, although I know they aren’t great pictures. 5th back on the passenger side. That’s also the one with the messed up lifter.
Alright so the other day, my motor started missing and within 5 minutes of it startin to miss, the damn thing went nuts. It developed this ticking noise that sounded like a little man inside the motor was banging on the walls trying to get out. It was LOUD. I drove it another 2 minutes after...
Okay so I’m pretty sure I have a bad intake valve. Got a thumping from the intake that only gets louder when you remove the air cleaner. Also got a ticking that started right around the same time the thumping started. Found a few threads of guys sharing a video of the same exact noise and i read...
Keep blowing fuse 9 on the truck. I narrowed it down to only when the truck is running, and when the fuze blows I have no tach or automatic on the tranny. I know this fuse protects the PCM and I checked relay 1, any known wires that would be causing this? Thanks for any help.
I have a wastegated Banks Sidewinder that had shaft play so I tore it down. Was going to rebuild it myself, but finding a kit is a bear. I’ve read the wastegated sidewinders were all TE06H’s but the label on my turbo got ripped off before I acquired it. The motor is a stock 94 7.3 in a 93 F250...
Looking for most of everything except the turbo itself. Let me know what you got and how much you want for it and we’ll see what we can do. Thanks all.
Yes I did. I wasn’t paying attention, black wire was ground and that’s why I didn’t have any power to lights. Spliced them into brown and good to go. I did test the brown and black with my multimeter and I must not have had a good connection with it cuz I wasn’t getting a reading on either of...
Yeah they’re different, how exactly I’m not sure. I have a 93 idi that has factory cab lights, and they go into the plug I assume. My 96 7.5 is the one I’m putting the LEDs into and I tried to splice them into the black wire of that plug and no luck.
Okay so I’ve got a LED cab light set that’s all mounted and the harness is all good to go. The part that’s throwing me now is where can I splice this harness so that the lights come on when I turn on the headlights? The instructions say to find a 12V constant wire and splice them into that, but...
Sounds like the station is just trying to capitalize on already high fuel prices and stretch that fuel for as much money as they can. Sleezy ****. Hope you get it worked out man.
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