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  1. M

    Stumbling 1996 f350 7.3 PS with TS 6 pos chip from RiffRaff Diesel

    Does it do it in stock, or with the chip removed? If not, have you contacted RiffRaff?
  2. M

    new hydraulics - noisy ?

    Idea - make a little "gasket" out of a piece of old bike tire innertube, and install between the master and the firewall. See if that makes the noise go away. Even if just temporarily, it'll at least tell you if that's the cause. Dang, no photo on Advance's web site. And the pics on all the...
  3. M

    New to me 94 IDIT rescue.

    If the clutch problem is between the pedal arm and the pushrod, there are two solutions. If the pushrod eyelet isn't all wallered out (ovalized or "egged out"), you can get some 1/2"OD x 7/16"ID brass tubing, and cut off a real short piece to slip in there as the bushing. Then assmble the arm to...
  4. M

    Fuel gauge pegged

    What year truck? If it's a OBS, here's the diagram - http://userpages.chorus.net/elephant/FuelTankSelector.pdf . Most likely it's NOT in either tank, but a break in the wire between the FSV and the gauge head. Open circuit == infinite resistance == gauge pegs past full.
  5. M

    Slave cylinder travel

    Video indicates enough hydraulic travel. I think post #7 nails it, that the new clutch kit (most likely esp. the pressure plate fingers) just has to be worked enough. I've seen posts on other forums indicating low pedal engagement on a new clutch, and that it takes a while for "normal" ops to...
  6. M

    Slave cylinder travel

    Good idea; strange that the keeper thing doesn't hold the rod back enough. One thing, though, if you use the ratchet-strap method -- set the PARKING BRAKE, and/or BLOCK the wheels.
  7. M

    Window weather stripping

    For the horizontal seal (10, 11) do you need just the inners, just the outers, or both? I'll bet these parts are the same one Dennis Carpenter sells, no longer made in USA. The outers are okay, but the inners suck; VERY poor quality, use the wrong clips for clipping to the door panel, I couldn't...
  8. M

    Picture request...

    Shouldn't that double-coil one be angled downward as it goes forward, going down from the cable to the bottom of the IP somewhere? (See pics 2 and 3 of post 2; for some reason it's not there in pic 1) And shouldn there instead be a lighter spring going fore-aft across the top?
  9. M

    Zf 5 heater

    I would drain the ATF, maybe fill it once more with conventional ATF and run it awhile, then drain it again. That should flush out all the old molasses (gear lube) that was in it. Then try a fill of SYNTHETIC ATF; ZF later changed their spec to say you should run synthetic in this trans when...
  10. M

    Parts to salvage from 89 parts truck for my 86.

    If you're obtaining the whole donor truck, and junking it after the swap, there are lots of things you should pull off it and sell just as a "community service", to make parts available to other bricknose-era users that are getting hard to find. +1 above, the fuel senders are not compatible, but...
  11. M

    ABS and brake light staying on!

    ^^^^^^ +1; check ALL hydraulics. This is why the light is RED.
  12. M

    6.9 idi engine parts to good home

    Is the lift pump in working order?
  13. M

    Front tires screwing with my eyes.

    ^^^^ Ditto with ours, but I _thought_ that only happened with the 4x4 trucks....
  14. M

    Welding oil pan in place?

    So is the idea of a tee at the "gauge" sender location completely off the table? (shrug)
  15. M

    Welding oil pan in place?

    There isn't a fitting on the block somewhere that's plugged? Hm. Oh -- stock oil pressure "gauge" sender - put a tee in there, and then whatever adapter you might need for the temp gauge. Come to think of it, wouldn't that be a more meaningful place to measure oil temp, in the block rather than...
  16. M

    High Idle Stays On At Operating Temp.

    It's normally closed. It takes an action (heating of the coolant) to open it. _Normally_, the coolant is at a temperature that does not open the switch. (Weird, this never posted the first time yesterday (shrug)...)
  17. M

    High Idle Stays On At Operating Temp.

    ... and of course a valve is "on" when it's open and "off" when it's closed.....
  18. M

    High Idle Stays On At Operating Temp.

    ^^^^^ It's not much better in a truck. The way the t-stat housing goosenecks backward, it's about impossible to get a socket on it. Maybe the 7.3s are different, but on my '85, it was a PITA.
  19. M

    High Idle Stays On At Operating Temp.

    Just the opposite. Switch is CLOSED when cold, and OPENS when it reaches the appropriate temp. No high idle and no extra timing advance when cold.
  20. M

    High Idle Stays On At Operating Temp.

    Not around here, either. Or anywhere else, except White Bear Lake MN, wherever that is. Not that it matters.
  21. M

    No brakes, pedal rock soild...

    Of all the parts you threw at it, what did you TEST? Have you tried running a vacuum line directly from the pump to the booster, just as a test?
  22. M

    High Idle Stays On At Operating Temp.

    Expensive? For future readers, they're $35 at AutoNation White Bear Lake - E8TZ-9E939-A .
  23. M

    Hello

    ^^^^^ That's only on the 7.3s.
  24. M

    Looking at buying a 92 7.3 IDI how well will it tow?

    +1; I'd say at least half of the service bodies I see around here are on long-bed pickup frames; you can tell by the wheelbase. Um, since SD trucks are irrelevant to this section of the forum, are they relevant to this thread? :shrug: (BTW, did anyone notice how they managed to put a Chevy cab...
  25. M

    Hello

    The line doesn't go directly from the frame rail to the lift pump. It goes to the water separator first. I've heard that's notorious for air intrusion. Option - find a combination filter/separator that fits your existing filter head, or swap to a 7.3 filter head. Then you _would_ run a line...
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