Well...5/8" to 3/4" about the limit.......there are some pics of mine that shelled and cracked the bell hsg area---ZF's are solid casting = case and bell area are one.
clicky here for some pics.......
Damn Mike....admit it, you just like working on that Polish Detroit {Cuminski:D}
If those nozzles were so carboned up, were the copper seal washers intact?....or was there carbon under them from improper install?
My couple pennies is going with checking anything pressure related first (after topping off the oil) :D
That much hemmoriging points to either a supply/pressure port/line...if those are intact....look at the drain line--if yours goes back to the valve cover---or the valley pan rubber bung...
Been a day or two but doesn't the metal tab spring come off with the slave.....
I've been [lucky] enough to compress them against the side of the mount and then simply slide it in place ........
...I have done RMS in both IDI and PSD's....and all ways went with FERD parts....
The PSD RMS is teflon and you DO NOT oil it! It "did" come with a plastic installer sleeve...possibly because I bought an oversize seal/sleeve kit.....
If memory serves, the sleeve did not look like it seated...
Ain't never heard of that :confused: just use a starter button clipped to the starter solenoid...
The mag base inj tool is wayy better than the old one with the two cheesy pins that gripped the spring!
clicky here
I have bought and used these with no worries ;Sweet
Got them in the Ford for fan relays and on the 4 wheelers for reverse override/extra lights etc.....
Do you mean a leaking injector tube :confused:
If so, then the head must come off....the tubes are installed with a special tool that is torqued in to form the copper to the bore and another tool to form the seat on the combustion side.
You would think that much would be goobered up around the mag drain plug :dunno
Why you running the Wally World oil cookoo...Switch to Rotella or Delo ;Sweet
Try this....add a can of Seafoam to the existing oil and drive for 200 mi or so, then drain, change filter and use a better...
#30 fuse --located in under dash fuse panel....also powers the IDM..
Only blowing control fuse when hooked ...does your toy hauler use the 7 pin trailer plug?
Does it have the 12v constant hot for charging the break away battery?
I would first check/disable the trailer wiring and start...
So this thread is the same as the one in the powerstroke section?
the 911 section is for those broken down away from home so I'm going to close this one and ask that all further replies be directed to this thread....http://www.oilburners.net/forums/showthread.php?p=337006#post337006
You are getting fuel or the filter would be low/empty so the "delivery" system is operational...no smoke/raw fuel from the tailpipe indicates a problem after the delivery system......
On top of the engine at the very front is a rectangle shaped box that will have a pressure sensor on the pass...
ETHER = BAD IDEA! the gp's will still cycle!
If you must use a squirt of something...use WD40 or silicone spray!
No smoke or fuel smell from exh...... Check the IPR as you have replaced the CPS.......
Yeappers!...disconnect the fuel heater "before" replacing the fuse...like Rob mentioned--"under the dash"
Was that installed, along with a full tank of fuel , and a wax job for both the truck AND driver :D
Ron, I would also check the IPR--down just below the HPOP on the driver side---it is powered by a coil that slides over the IPR and the seals in the IPR are most likely toast...add about $130 for a new one unless someone has access to one.
There are some seals in the HPOP...around the...
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