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    No crank

    I had a no crank situation with my ranger once and it ended up being the negative terminal on the battery. Dead in the parking lot at work, I’d get a click from the starter then nothing. The terminal looked fine and didn’t feel loose, but When I pulled the neg clamp off I could see melted spots...
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    Clutch Arm/Heim Joint Mod

    Yes it would have been nice if the MC pushrod was threaded and allowed adjustment. Either threaded, or with a deep enough female Heim one could stack shims in it I suppose.
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    Ford diesel Oil who runs it?

    I don’t know if it’s good or not, but when I got oil last week that same container was $18.97 here!
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    Clutch Arm/Heim Joint Mod

    Once I got the piece off it went great, 10 minutes of work. But took me two hours to get the piece off. I didn’t want to remove the whole pedal assembly. IDIBRINCO, I can confirm your memory is good. Definitely still a PITA. The mod did the trick and I have a clutch again, the truck moves...
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    Clutch Arm/Heim Joint Mod

    Finally got it. Had to use the air hammer to get it off. Definitely wasn’t going anywhere under normal use.
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    Clutch Arm/Heim Joint Mod

    How do I get the little arm off to do the Heim joint mod? I tried prying, hammering the bolt backwards, and an air hammer but it won’t budge. Am I doing this wrong?
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    How/Where to add SCA

    Haha I suppose that is one way of preventing it!
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    How/Where to add SCA

    Got it, that’s what I’ll do. I just replaced the clutch and flywheel and don’t have enough travel to disengage the clutch. I’m assuming due to sloppy bushing and MC rod. I have parts supposedly arriving tomorrow to fix that and hopefully then It will be driveable.
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    How/Where to add SCA

    Another question, will it hurt anything to just dump the full charge in or do I need to do it gradually as it’s running? I figure I need roughly 2 pints according to the test kit instructions. They say 1 pint per 4 gallons.
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    Pyrometer install questions

    I think the studs will come apart fine due to the constant soaking in oil they've received for God knows how long. But back further under the passenger side there's a flange that looks old, cantankerous, set in place and unwilling to yield to my desire to move it so I can put the bung in. I'll...
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    Pyrometer install questions

    Here is where I think we are talking about, with the bund coming out at about this angle. But I see no way of welding the bung anywhere up there without removing the exhaust pipe, assuming I want it as close as possible to the manifold. I could take the pipe loose but the flange further down is...
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    Pyrometer install questions

    Thank you. I read somewhere in here about the bung on the pipe. I like that idea better as it seems less risky. I will have to look into where it would be easiest to put it in. If it doesn’t work out I can just plug it.
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    Pyrometer install questions

    I’m thinking on doing this. I gather the easiest place to put the probe is the bottom. I always thought putting things in the bottom was bad due to moisture. Is that not much of a concern here? Also, why is it preferred to be between the back two cylinders? Wouldn’t the temp be similar coming...
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    How/Where to add SCA

    I tested my coolant with the NAPA strips today and it is fin except for the apparent absence of the SCA. The coolant is bright green and looks fresh. It tested good otherwise. I’m good with flushing out for an elc but would like to wait until warmer weather. Am I ok to add the SCA to get me...
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    No crank

    Well crap, you’re totally right. I bet had that happened to me in a vehicle with a switch I would have thought it can’t be done and called for a ride. Sometime my head doesn’t work all that great, especially under stress.
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    Noisy GPR

    Is it normal for the GPR to make noise? Mine was buzzing so I got a new one from Napa. Put it in and this one makes a weird noise, like the noise they use in movies for a door opening in a creepy house. I double checked and it’s hooked up like the old one was.
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    No crank

    My old Ranger doesn't have one. I had the clutch slave cylinder go on me once and drove it 'golf cart' style to get home. Glad I had that option.
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    Rear Main?

    Doing this seal wasn’t too bad. I don’t have a hoist, so I have to do it from the floor. I didn’t even have the truck on stands and was able to make a little backrest and sit facing the seal with my head up in the trans tunnel. Couldn’t do that in any of the other cars or trucks I’ve done this in.
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    Rear Main?

    Well it’s done. I figured it would be easier with the cover off as I don’t have a driving tool. Hopefully I got those corners well enough.
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    Rear Main?

    Well I’m into it now. I took the cover off and found someone had used a paper gasket that’s now fused to the block. I got most of that off, now the silicone remains. Any trick to removing that? It does not want to go anywhere.
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    Rear Main?

    Haha I know I know. Main seals scare me a bit since I’ve had issues in the past. It doesn’t seem too bad to replace, just have to be careful and make sure everything’s clean for the rtv to stick. Any seal types/brands better than others?
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    Mystery Tube

    I found a replacement part picture on the internets and it looks like mines missing a plastic piece that has the hose barb. I think mystery solved, and I’ll have to get a new drain valve if I want to use the hose.
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    Mystery Tube

    I see where I think it’s supposed to connect. There’s a small metal tube sticking out but it’s not long enough for a hose to hold onto.
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    Rear Main?

    I have a full view of the rear main seal with the trans off for a clutch & flywheel replacement. While I had the trans off I figured it may be worth considering doing the main seal. It looks like it may be weeping slightly. I’ve had trouble with these before on other engines where I couldn’t get...
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    Mystery Tube

    What is this tube? And is it important? Looks like rubber hose pushed onto some steel line.

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