Many settings lost. Signal-to-noise ratio has gone way down, with all the real estate taken up by sigs and avatars. I found where to turn sigs off, but where do you turn off avatars?
True, the START circuit is quite simple. The rest of the ignition switch, not so much. There are multiple pairs of contacts that open and close with the key in the RUN position, so a simple three-position switch won't do it. A quick study of the EVTM will show just what you'd need to do to...
TEST the sending units before replacing. If the sending unit had failed, most likely the gauge would read way past full (infinite resistance). More likely you just have a float that's sodden with fuel, and the float is available separately.
^^^^ What's up with the face on Mars?
Why didn't the world end on 12/21/2012?
And what REALLY happens when you tear the tag off your mattress?
It's a ZF transmission behind an International engine. Did Ford have anything to do with either bolt pattern? Maybe it was something arranged...
You can narrow it down easily enough. Disconnect the cable from the IP and operate the throttle on the IP by hand, and see if the problem still occurs. If it does, it's something in the IP. If not, it's the cable.
Be sure to be ready to yank the FSS wire to stop the engine in case the...
NOT a stupid question, not by ANY means. Hydraulic failure is the primary, and most critical, function of the dash warning light. It's the FIRST thing to check whenever the light comes on unexpectedly, since it's the one that could kill someone if ignored.
Depends. US currency is about .0043" thick, so six bills are aprx. 025". I bet I could eyeball a stack of seven $100 bills vs. one bill from across a garage. But .225" vs .250" of rusty C-section steel, no indeed most folks couldn't eyeball that.
^^^^ +1 all of the above. The cost also includes (well, it SHOULD anyway) cleaning up the old glass. And +10000 on NEW glass vs. old. It's about how it feels when you get new glasses with a better prescription and super-clear lenses.
I've finally gotten the hang of the trim; we take ours off...
^^^^^ Two most useful points. That tank is shot. That old, that much rust, it WILL leak again. The beauty of dual tanks - run it on the front and as SOON as it starts to sputter, switch to the rear. You can still drive the truck and it's bone empty and way easier to drop.
Yuh, this is gonna be a treasure hunt. I found a couple Pro Source brand copper/brass cores for my '85 at AutoZtoned, but that only fits the slant-nose with the heater core in the plastic box under the hood. From their own web site, Pro Source's only offering for the OBS is aluminum.
How long is the shaft? Maybe the pulley could be adjusted forward on the shaft a mm or so. I bet with the smaller frame, the pulley is further back than the WP and crank pulleys anyway, out of "plane" with them.
An idler on the path between the crank and the alt, pushing upward on the outside...
^^^^ Attach fail. Use "Go advanced" mode, otherwise attachments don't work (although there's no error message).
Well, it was yesterday, not today, but I pulled the pooched heater core out. Lotsa fun on the non-A/C "HI-OUTPUT" trucks. At least it happened in May and not November. I just did a...
^^^^ Along with that, the square bumpout on the bottom of the tank (see post #8) has been with us for at least 30-ish years. If the pickup tube is the right length, the showerhead sits right in the bumpout, and Bob's your uncle.
Not to mention it's a great way to get deadly carbon monoxide into the cab. They route exhaust to the outside or rear of every vehicle for a reason, and it has nothing to do with sound or cosmetics.
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