Does anyone know a current source for a "hutch mod" fuel pickup kit for superduty 7.3? I have bought a couple before from Riffraff, but they currently don't have stock or something.
For those who have run a Yukon Duragrip (YDGF10.25) LS, in a Sterling 10.25, what are your thoughts? Reliable? Trouble free? Responsive?
It's time for a Sterling 10.25 re-fresh and im thinking about installing the Duragrip. Would like some feedback if there is any...
Ya most modern heavy duty, off road applications will defuel a bit when they are about to shift even if your throttle foot is put right to the floor and left there. Nothing the operator can do about it. Kind of an idiot proof design system put in place to help protect from operator abuse.
Ya...
Yes, letting off on the throttle a little bit when its about to shift, has become second nature to me and my driving style. Then get back into a bit once the shift has fully completed. After many years of doing that, I actually find it difficult to not let up on the throttle when its shifting.
Yup with a little care, a few simple mods, and proper driving habits; the E4OD's seem to hold up just fine when towing. Certainly better then the GM and Mopar OD trans of the same era.
When 2nd is selected, it's 2nd only. Doesn't start in 1st and shift to second and hold there, nor will it shift back down to 1st.
I have used 2nd for towing lots, long hills, heavy loads. The problem is the TCM doesn't lock the torque converter in 2nd so it makes for a inefficient scenario and...
That would be a good method for a situation like resurrecting a truck that has been sitting a while, with a gummed up pump/metering valve. Gives it an extreme does of whatever you are running as a purge, then switch back to your main fuel system. I don't think I would do it as a part of...
Yup. Bad valve guides/valves not seating is not uncommon, but its more likely a sticking lifter. Some run time with fresh oil and maybe some oil additive of your choice (MMO, Rislone etc) and there is a good chance that it will clear up. It may take some time tho
I often see high mileage engine still holding 400 psi. And some low mileage engines at 300 and lower. all depends on how it was driven and maintained. If you find yourself with 400 or so, you're doing great but really anything over 350 and fairly even across the table, you are still doing...
I second the IDM inside the drivers fender. See if its getting road spray up in there. Check the main large square wiring harness plug on the drivers side of the engine also. Underhood fuse box area, and all grounds, make sure all grounds are grounding well.
Good tip. Yea the only time I had to replace a solenoid pack before was when the TOT sensor went bad and it would shift directly from second into overdrive t/c lock, until the tranny warmed up and then it would shift normal.
The MLPS fixed this particular issue
I would not try the MTG being a gear oil at a much thicker viscosity. The ZF fluid should be in and around a 30wt and I can't imagine the syncro's would appreciate a 75+ wt oil in there. Syncro's usually grind more so when the trans is cold (thicker fluid) and eases up a bit once warmed up...
Hey, ya I used the 5w-30 MTF. I am happy with it and I will choose it as my go to fluid, on ZF's from now on worn out or otherwise. I only have experience with it in one trans so far, and it is better then syn ATF. Cold syncro crunches are still there, but definitely less then before...
Thanks guys. This truck is a 92. The linkage seems pretty good. Not like new, but also not sloppy.
So I tried adjusting the MLPS a bit either way, to no avail.
So I then removed it and replaced it with a known good OEM one (30 years old) and it's all back to normal. Shifting just as it...
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